SCDA HPDE Schedule
#2603
any of you running wilwood dynalite? WHat pads do you like?
I tried 7816 BP-40 last weekend and they felt great but I destroyed a set, they still had 2mm of pad but that is cutting it close for just one weekend.
I'm thinking about trying one of the ST pads, like the ST43, I do not like gloc/carbotech as they do not last for me either, and DTC60 make that horrible rusting brake dust
I tried 7816 BP-40 last weekend and they felt great but I destroyed a set, they still had 2mm of pad but that is cutting it close for just one weekend.
I'm thinking about trying one of the ST pads, like the ST43, I do not like gloc/carbotech as they do not last for me either, and DTC60 make that horrible rusting brake dust
#2604
#2605
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
any of you running wilwood dynalite? WHat pads do you like?
I tried 7816 BP-40 last weekend and they felt great but I destroyed a set, they still had 2mm of pad but that is cutting it close for just one weekend.
I'm thinking about trying one of the ST pads, like the ST43, I do not like gloc/carbotech as they do not last for me either, and DTC60 make that horrible rusting brake dust
I tried 7816 BP-40 last weekend and they felt great but I destroyed a set, they still had 2mm of pad but that is cutting it close for just one weekend.
I'm thinking about trying one of the ST pads, like the ST43, I do not like gloc/carbotech as they do not last for me either, and DTC60 make that horrible rusting brake dust
And yes, wear is an issue with these because they are a relatively low volume pad size. I have never used the BP-40 pad. Right now I have been using the DTC60. They are hard on rotors; hence the rusty brake dust. The Wilwood Poly H worked well for me too. A little less aggressive on the rotors than the Hawks. I went away from them because I thought I might be getting deposits from them. However with the added cooling I have I may try them again or the Poly B pads.
This brake setup seems to be sensitive to having enough cooling. The pads will last longer with more cooling. I have done 3 days at WGI on one set of pads with no issues with thickness. WGI is hard on brakes with a lot of heat, but there are only 11 turns in 3.4 miles so wear isn’t too bad. I did 2 days at Palmer and saw quite a bit of rotor wear with the Hawks, but the pads did well, which I attribute to the added cooling.
I typically have at least one set of new pads as spares, plus 1 or 2 sets of used pads and one full set of front rotor assemblies when I go to a track event. I have worn out, cracked and/or warped rotors and worn out a set of pads at track events. I have had too many brake issues to not bring this stuff.
All of that said, I would recommend the Wilwood Poly H pads.
One last thing. While you and I seem to have a big difference in getting heat into our rear brakes, you might want to see if you can move some more of your braking moved to the rear brakes to take some of the load off the front brakes. I know that has helped me with front pad wear. I would think that the Gen 2 JCW rotors and caliper brackets would fit your car. That larger rotor in the rear would do that for you. Just a thought
#2606
I've been running Carbotech pads for years and like them. More recently I tried G-Loc pads, the brand started a few years ago by the founders of Carbotech. They are virtually identical to Carbotech. I did go with Wilwood pads (I forget the model #) for a day or two, after I installed the Wilwood brakes, but they seemed to wear out quickly.
#2607
It is with great regret that I have sold my Mini to my cousin. After chasing a lean code for a month I just could not seem to determine the cause. Since this is my DD I needed to replace a dependable vehicle. I bought a 2104 328IX BMW with MSport package. Paddle shifts, M brakes. I still keep a eye on this thread since I hope to meet up you guys at the track.
Even though the car is not gone I already miss the fun of driving it. It will be in good hands since he will be able to store fro winter and determine the reason for the code.
Even though the car is not gone I already miss the fun of driving it. It will be in good hands since he will be able to store fro winter and determine the reason for the code.
#2608
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
It is with great regret that I have sold my Mini to my cousin. After chasing a lean code for a month I just could not seem to determine the cause. Since this is my DD I needed to replace a dependable vehicle. I bought a 2104 328IX BMW with MSport package. Paddle shifts, M brakes. I still keep a eye on this thread since I hope to meet up you guys at the track.
Even though the car is not gone I already miss the fun of driving it. It will be in good hands since he will be able to store fro winter and determine the reason for the code.
Even though the car is not gone I already miss the fun of driving it. It will be in good hands since he will be able to store fro winter and determine the reason for the code.
Say it isn’t so.
A very sad day in the MINI world.
Just when this little group was expanding we lose one to their fickleness.
I still hope to do the roll bar in mine.
A 328IX on the track?
#2609
#2610
#2611
Still tons of heat up front, I have 2 sets of ducts for the front wheel now. I'm going to try the ST pads, but I'm not sure if I should go 43 or 45
#2612
I've been running Carbotech pads for years and like them. More recently I tried G-Loc pads, the brand started a few years ago by the founders of Carbotech. They are virtually identical to Carbotech. I did go with Wilwood pads (I forget the model #) for a day or two, after I installed the Wilwood brakes, but they seemed to wear out quickly.
#2615
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
with the wilwoods I"m now getting a LOT more heat in the rear, I suspect the added piston surface area on the wilwoods means less pressure on the front pads in relation to the rear. I'm not changing rear pads though I do not get the unsettling in the rear anymore it feels a lot better.
Still tons of heat up front, I have 2 sets of ducts for the front wheel now. I'm going to try the ST pads, but I'm not sure if I should go 43 or 45
Still tons of heat up front, I have 2 sets of ducts for the front wheel now. I'm going to try the ST pads, but I'm not sure if I should go 43 or 45
Last edited by Eddie07S; 11-20-2017 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Typo
#2616
#2617
I went from bmw to mini, still own a bunch of bmws, the coding side it the same, and working on them is damn near the same especially the r56 and newer vs bmw.
I switched to mini, more fun 99 % of the time, even though they are not as fast on the track than my previous bmw's (M3, 135i) I bet my z4 3.0 is faster than the mini on the track but it's just not the same
I switched to mini, more fun 99 % of the time, even though they are not as fast on the track than my previous bmw's (M3, 135i) I bet my z4 3.0 is faster than the mini on the track but it's just not the same
#2618
#2619
my 135i was ok, but they go into limp mode if you know how to drive. when I get sick of the mini I'm going back to either a gutted e46 m3 or 135i with lots of cooling & brakes.
The newer bmw's have a lot of code that limits things, like the rear brakes issue, they do not have LSD so they use the brakes to fake it. They knew the brakes would overheat so the car limits engine output after a while. It took years for tuners to figure out all the stuff they have to code out of the 135i to get all of that stuff disabled.
The newer bmw's have a lot of code that limits things, like the rear brakes issue, they do not have LSD so they use the brakes to fake it. They knew the brakes would overheat so the car limits engine output after a while. It took years for tuners to figure out all the stuff they have to code out of the 135i to get all of that stuff disabled.
#2620
#2625