Sorry for the noob question, but I've just recently started to run my '06 MCS in Solo2 and I'm trying to decide in which class to run it. I want to be able to do mods, and running street tires is appealing but is the MCS out-classed in STX? It seems to do much better in GS. Is this simply because there are more running in GS, or do we have a disadvantage running in STX?

Thanks much!

 

Where have you been running? I don't believe I've seen you at any SFR events. Locally your competition in STX will be the WRX's and Civic SI's. Most of those competitors have been running for a number of years and have well developed cars. Our G stock class winning times are usually in the same ballpark as the STX winning times.
If you are serious about winning in STX you have got to commit to pushing the mods the the max, 1 or 2 just won't do it. Craig Wilcox could probably give you a bunch details on what to do to set up a competitve car or you could read through the STX forum.
My advice to you would be to run G Stock novice on street tires for your first year and then take it from there.

 

I would highly recommned running GS for sure unless you have unlimited funds and really really want to mod your car to the MAX. You can immediately and very easily prep your car to the max in GS and still have a daily driver. I miss GS, and, if it were not for Mr Barclay supplying me with his GS ride, I might do something drastic. STX is tough and VERY course dependant, sometimes its a bit frustrating, especially when your not use to having your azz handed to your every other week. lol

With the above said, I'll be running GS for the Prosolo Finale and likely the Championship for this season. Next season, possibly DSP if the bimmers get moved. ;-)


Craig Wilcox

 

Hi James. I ran my first event this past weekend at GGF. My car was the white MCS with the green and red hood stripes. I saw you run there, but I got in late so I couldn't make the morning sessions. I did a fun run in the afternoon and picked STXN as my class, simply because I had 15" rims on my MCS. My best run was 62.5, which I was pretty happy with considering it was my first event.

I guess I should stick with GS for now, even though I'd like to mod the car. I'll have to resist the temptation; for now at least.

I'll be at the Coliseum on 8/6, so I'll find you and say hello. My co-worker is James Creasy and he's responsible for getting me out there. I'm glad he did!

 

Can you summarize what that prep would be? Thanks!

 

Lighter exhaust - Miltek(makes some of the best power, but, dual sided, I think its a touch over 30lbs, this exhaust has no drone, I'd probably go with this one if your car is a daily driver), Alta(light one sided, kind of droney), Quicksilver(light, one sided, no experience), Custom pipe with Supertrapp(lightest, and, tunable by removing disks, this is what I use since I can quiet it down immediately by pulling out all but 4 disks)
16x6.5 SSR Type C - 11lbs $1300 or so --- or Rota Slipstream 45mm offset 16x6.5 - 13.Xlbs 18racing.com $480 or so shipped
Kumho V710 215/40/16 - $630 or so these will last 100 or so runs in my experience
Koni Yellow shocks - $650 or so
Scroth Quick fit harness(makes a big difference since it hold you in rather than flopping around freely with the stock belt)
Nology Hot Wires - $150 or so
Denso Irridium Plugs - $60 or so
Alignment - dial out as much rear camber as possible, zero toe in the rear ---- Front, camber is non-adjustable, but, you can slightly adjust it with the sub frame to make sure its even on both sides if its slightly offset(I had +.2 on one side and -.7 on the other when I took delivery of my 05). For front toe, I prefer to go with 1/8" toe out per side, if you don't want to be that aggressive 1/16" is a must on toe out per side.
Brake Pads - I use to run Hawk HPS pads. Make sure you bed them in properly, this will make a big difference.

hope that helps, thats about all you can do in GS.

Craig

 

Seen any dyno differences with the plugs and wires?

 

Never Dyno'd, but, after being down only .001 going into the last run(the one where we both dropped .4+ seconds, with mine being a redlight) before Sortors car broke at the Denver Prosolo last weekend, I decided that even though you might not be able to measure something, its worth doing it if its even 1/4hp and cannot be measured accurately. :-) When I heard i was .001 down, I was pissed that I ate those extra couple Mini Donuts just a couple hours ago. If .001 would have stood, everything I've ever said about going 100% on prep would have been justified. I had a 17lbs lighter seat w/bracket laying in paddock as well in addition to the 2 donuts I ate. lol

 

I've got an '05 MCS and I'd like to run STX in the future. Besides the pulley and the head, what other pieces would I have to use? I only want to install the pieces that are nessasary to be legal, not the whole JCW kit.

 

OK, I remember your car now. I really sucked last event. I ran out at Atwater on Saturday in 114+ heat and then Sunday again in the morning, threw my stuff in the car and drove 2 hours on my R-Comps just to make it there in time to throw my stuff out of the car and grid up. It's kind of hard to figure the course out without walking it. Makes you really practice looking ahead. Best time was 59.1, my first run the rest were dirty.

I'll see you in Oakland on the 6th.

 

Does your car have DSC? I believe you have to install the whole kit less the pieces that are legal to remove or modify in STX. You can't just do a pulley it has to be the JCW supercharger.

 

I looked at a, '05 JCW 'charger the other day and couldn't see any differences. Are you sure they aren't the same in '05.

I guess my question is, what parts of the JCW aren't "free" in STX.

I do have DSC.

 

See post 23 https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=supercharger
See the rule book. If you says you can then it's free. I'm not exactly sure what come with the kit.

 

I'm curious: To order a factory JCW car, you need the Sport package. If you didn't order the sport package, is it STX-legal to put JCW package on as a dealer-installed option without the components of the sport package?

 

You might want to take this to the STX forum, BUT you will need the JCW head, injectors, Supercharger and maybe the firewall (cowl). The reason for the maybe is the JCW 200 did not have the 210 intake but was the JCW 200 an optional mod on an 05 or was the only JCW kit available, for the 05, a JCW 210? Of course you'd be better off with the 210 cowl as it gets more air and neither can be modified. So, what you don't need is the JCW intake (except maybe the cowl) and software. DSC is not a requirement.

Don't remember for sure but injectors may not have been part of the JCW 200 either.

I'm not sure how one proves they have the JCW head but it could be you would need the JCW "Certificate of Authenticity" or the JCW engine Plaque and the best and maybe only way that's going to happen is to get a dealer to install the JCW kit.

 

I would take that up with the SCCA, before I converted an 06, but on an 05 and before, no factory installed kit was availabe, so they have no problem with this. I believe it's been ruled OK, as you can still get the dealer installed kit on an 06.

 

Okay, I've been thinking about this. I have 15x7 OZ Superleggeras on my car now and I really like them. If I'm thinking non-competively for a year or so, can I just keep them on my car and run in STX-N? I mean, I can't really run in GS-N with these wheels, right?

 

Legally no, the people running in GSN might take issue with it. The best thing to do is approach the other drivers and ask. The people running in GS probably wouldn't care. I wouldn't till you started beating me . If the other GS people do then they are weenies.

STXN is the other option. Most important thing is to get seat time.

Rota Slipstreams will set you back $500. The distributor is local so you can save on shipping.

 

No DA Koni's on the rear?

 

It all depends on how much you want to spend. I went with DA's on the rear. It will take a while to get them(Koni Yellows converted to DA's) back from Koni from being converted, so, it should be a winter project unless you could obtain an already built set.

 

Hmm... no mention of front sway bar? Noob question; Advantage or no Advantage to changing the front sway bar to a stiffer product (like the Hotchkis)?

Thanks!
Garth

 

Stay with the Stock or 22.5 front swaybar. The large bar will give you wheel spin coming out of sweepers. Definitely change the rear bar to H-Sport though.

 

Change the rear bar and still stay in G-Stock? I did not think that was allowed. Also, will I get wheel spin even though I have the stock LSD?

Thanks for the help on this...

 

lol, oops, sorry, I received the email with your post in it and glanced at STX and was in the STX frame of mind when I made the post on the fly. Yeah, your right, only the front bar for GS.

In GS, I would recommend 22.5mm or stock as well. Some, without LSD have gone to the 16mm, but, I don't think its necessary with the LSD.

 

No sweat... just checking to make sure. So, here is my plan after being away from auto-x for a long time... what do you think? I will run this for the rest of this year, doing more mods as my wallet allows and my times improve...
Falken RT-615 205/40/16 on my old stock x-lites
Aligment to 1/16 toe out front, 0 negative camber rear
Scroth Harness
Replacement air filter
Milltek or custom cat back (time and money permitting)

Thanks to all for the assistance this forum has provided...

Garth