D Stock V710 failure
#26
That has always been my settings---42f/36r. Isn't setting the rears that high just covering a mishandling car? I am not trying to start a war here, just never heard of running that high a pressure. I know you can play with the rear pressures to help with under/oversteer but have never seen pressures that high before.
It definitely helps with rotation having the higher pressures. Lower pressures also allow for rotation, just a different kind. High pressure rotation is more of a quick and precise rotation. Low pressure rotation is a slower, more predictable rotation. I, myself, like the quicker/more precise rotation. Sort of a quick off throttle, rotate, back on throttle respose with very little off throttle time in order to induce rotation. If the R53 had 2.5 negative camber up front to optimize front grip, it wouldn't probably benefit from higher pressures with a 215/40/16 V710 on the rear to take away grip from the rear. The first and foremost goal is to optimize front grip, but, with no camber, there isn't much besides shock settings and front pressure that can be changed. Basically, setup front fairly soft, put pressures 45ish and adjust rear accordingly to induce desired rotation. Thats about all that can be done. :-)
Last edited by OasisT; 07-30-2007 at 08:05 PM.
#28
yeah, most of this is just your personal prefrence of rotation. I personally run mine even lower than most all that have been mentioned. I run around 39f/34r (this varies on surface type and surface temp). I've played with air pressure like nobody's business over the last 2 seasons, and this is what's given me the best results for my V710's.
#30
Pressures in stock trim are quite different than from a modded set-up. For example, here are some pressures I have run on the exact same set of tires before and after modifications.
Stock Class: Front 48-50psi (fighting tire roll-over) Rear 50+psi (for rotation).
FSP Class: Front 42psi (-2.1 degrees camber) Rear 35psi
(see signiture below for complete list of mods)
Stock Class: Front 48-50psi (fighting tire roll-over) Rear 50+psi (for rotation).
FSP Class: Front 42psi (-2.1 degrees camber) Rear 35psi
(see signiture below for complete list of mods)
Last edited by 41 h stock; 08-05-2007 at 02:51 PM.
#31
This has been my experience, not sure if I have been doing things right or not, but this has been my experience......
It definitely helps with rotation having the higher pressures. Lower pressures also allow for rotation, just a different kind. High pressure rotation is more of a quick and precise rotation. Low pressure rotation is a slower, more predictable rotation. I, myself, like the quicker/more precise rotation. Sort of a quick off throttle, rotate, back on throttle respose with very little off throttle time in order to induce rotation. If the R53 had 2.5 negative camber up front to optimize front grip, it wouldn't probably benefit from higher pressures with a 215/40/16 V710 on the rear to take away grip from the rear. The first and foremost goal is to optimize front grip, but, with no camber, there isn't much besides shock settings and front pressure that can be changed. Basically, setup front fairly soft, put pressures 45ish and adjust rear accordingly to induce desired rotation. Thats about all that can be done. :-)
It definitely helps with rotation having the higher pressures. Lower pressures also allow for rotation, just a different kind. High pressure rotation is more of a quick and precise rotation. Low pressure rotation is a slower, more predictable rotation. I, myself, like the quicker/more precise rotation. Sort of a quick off throttle, rotate, back on throttle respose with very little off throttle time in order to induce rotation. If the R53 had 2.5 negative camber up front to optimize front grip, it wouldn't probably benefit from higher pressures with a 215/40/16 V710 on the rear to take away grip from the rear. The first and foremost goal is to optimize front grip, but, with no camber, there isn't much besides shock settings and front pressure that can be changed. Basically, setup front fairly soft, put pressures 45ish and adjust rear accordingly to induce desired rotation. Thats about all that can be done. :-)
Someone mentioned earlier that this was to mask a poor handling car. Um, what do we think STOCK cars are?
But, I have to admit, I have to run slightly lower pressures in the front. If I run anything higher than 40-42psi, there is less ultimate grip. I have found the optimum to be in the 38-40psi range, even though it looks like the tire is rolling over too much. Running the larger tires has helped this.
#33
I had an incident with a V710 during an AutoX this weekend, was curious if anyone else had experienced the same? late on the course I was very deep in a turn front passenger tire rolled off the rim 50lbs of air high 80's Don't appear to have any damage rims were MINI 16" 5 spoke R84s I think. No apparent tire damage I will try and get it re seated this week. Its possible the tire was slipping on the rim before hand I was told it looked funny the intire run. To bad I think I would have knocked off an excellent run felt like I was really moving.
any comments would be appreciated.
On the bright side I can now honestly say I have driven the tires off the car
any comments would be appreciated.
On the bright side I can now honestly say I have driven the tires off the car
1. Were the tires recently mounted? Like the same day of the event? If so, the slippery stuff they use to mount the tires may not have dried yet.
2. Also, the stock rims have a "run flat shelf" that makes stiff sidewall race tires much more difficult to mount than with standard rims.
Maybe both 1 & 2 contributed to the failure?
#35
tire/wheel detachment
Late to the party, but just have to contribute my two cents.
I would bet money on a mounting error. 710s are an absolute ***** to mount, particularly if you get down into the 40 series. Lots of lube, lots of heat, and sometimes they still don't want to seat properly.
Its the tire pressure that keeps the bead properly seated, so its a low pressure that would cause this failure if the tire was correctly mounted.
I would bet money on a mounting error. 710s are an absolute ***** to mount, particularly if you get down into the 40 series. Lots of lube, lots of heat, and sometimes they still don't want to seat properly.
Its the tire pressure that keeps the bead properly seated, so its a low pressure that would cause this failure if the tire was correctly mounted.
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