Drivetrain Resonator and 2nd Cat Delete - CM4
#101
You can also use a Y-pipe and small 5-inchers like NM does. Not easy with all of the bends, though.
http://www.nm-eng.com/260/0/0/2864/nm308860-nm-eng-cat-back-exhaust-system.html#popUp[products]/0/
http://www.nm-eng.com/260/0/0/2864/nm308860-nm-eng-cat-back-exhaust-system.html#popUp[products]/0/
#102
The 10435 replaces the 2nd cat and resonator.
You're talking about replacing the rear muffler. I've now given you all of the options for doing so, but keep in mind that you're entering full custom territory (and I've spent way too much in that rear section only to fall back on an older design).
You're talking about replacing the rear muffler. I've now given you all of the options for doing so, but keep in mind that you're entering full custom territory (and I've spent way too much in that rear section only to fall back on an older design).
#103
But don't all these installs in this thread remove the rear muffler? I took a peek under there and the stock muffler is huge. I'm not sure how else this would happen. I've been looking at single inlet, dual outlet mufflers which would require a lot of custom work, or single inlet/outlet mufflers into a Y or something. Not sure how else to do it.
#105
#109
#111
Not too loud, actually. The resonator cut down a lot of sound (and drone), surprisingly. I believe I have videos floating around here somewhere... If you don't find them in my other thread I can post some here.
I gave it to another member (swapped systems and installed it to boot!) before trading in my last one.
Nowhere near as loud as what I have now, but that's a whole different animal.
I gave it to another member (swapped systems and installed it to boot!) before trading in my last one.
Nowhere near as loud as what I have now, but that's a whole different animal.
#112
#116
#117
Just imagine putting a louder muffler and then it'll drone beyond belief lol. I have a little drone around the same RPM's but I can only imagine when I put a DP on what it'll sound like haha.
#118
So to add to this discussion with another question....and maybe Theta knows the best answer /wink wink, which opens up the flow the most? Installing an axle back system, custom or aftermarket, or just removing the cat and resonator and leaving the OEM muffler?
And what does it sound like if you take out the cat, resonator AND get a new muffler?
Cheers!
And what does it sound like if you take out the cat, resonator AND get a new muffler?
Cheers!
#119
Not nearly as much as it does when you remove the muffler completely. Learned that lesson a few times.
#120
So to add to this discussion with another question....and maybe Theta knows the best answer /wink wink, which opens up the flow the most? Installing an axle back system, custom or aftermarket, or just removing the cat and resonator and leaving the OEM muffler?
And what does it sound like if you take out the cat, resonator AND get a new muffler?
Cheers!
And what does it sound like if you take out the cat, resonator AND get a new muffler?
Cheers!
The smallest diameter in the system is the effective diameter for the entire system (simple flow dynamics). The stock S/ALL4 system has two severe neck-downs before the res/cat area. Look at the bent pipe at the front for the DP connection - you will see 2-3 severe neck-downs, the smallest of which is down to 1 7/8". So, essentially, your exhaust system is 1 7/8" regardless of what you use from there back.
Now, that's still enough for these little engines, so don't let me discourage you. The two main factors before increasing pipe diameter are to remove/replace the two cats to maximize flow.
Axle backs do nothing except add/change the sound/loudness of your exhaust.
For the quickest sound bump, remove the 2cat/res, and straight pipe it with the OEM muffler. It's the most popular and cheapest mod that everyone agrees upon.
As for replacing the muffler, itself (not part of an axle-back system) - the only choice is the JCW OEM part. I've heard that combo before, quite nice. I'd point you to Kyle's videos, but he has much more work done, so the sound won't be a realistic expectation.
#121
Flow rates will be limited to the most constricting part of the system. Largest flow deterrent is the stock DP / cat. The resonator is a straight-through. The 2nd cat is another 200cpi and limits flow even further.
The smallest diameter in the system is the effective diameter for the entire system (simple flow dynamics). The stock S/ALL4 system has two severe neck-downs before the res/cat area. Look at the bent pipe at the front for the DP connection - you will see 2-3 severe neck-downs, the smallest of which is down to 1 7/8". So, essentially, your exhaust system is 1 7/8" regardless of what you use from there back.
Now, that's still enough for these little engines, so don't let me discourage you. The two main factors before increasing pipe diameter are to remove/replace the two cats to maximize flow.
Axle backs do nothing except add/change the sound/loudness of your exhaust.
For the quickest sound bump, remove the 2cat/res, and straight pipe it with the OEM muffler. It's the most popular and cheapest mod that everyone agrees upon.
The smallest diameter in the system is the effective diameter for the entire system (simple flow dynamics). The stock S/ALL4 system has two severe neck-downs before the res/cat area. Look at the bent pipe at the front for the DP connection - you will see 2-3 severe neck-downs, the smallest of which is down to 1 7/8". So, essentially, your exhaust system is 1 7/8" regardless of what you use from there back.
Now, that's still enough for these little engines, so don't let me discourage you. The two main factors before increasing pipe diameter are to remove/replace the two cats to maximize flow.
Axle backs do nothing except add/change the sound/loudness of your exhaust.
For the quickest sound bump, remove the 2cat/res, and straight pipe it with the OEM muffler. It's the most popular and cheapest mod that everyone agrees upon.
#122
Of course!
The easiest method on the American market is to cut just before and just after the res/cat section, then replace the section with 2.25" stainless 18ga (if available - remember you can always order this before going to a shop that only uses aluminized). The 2.25" slips over nicely and requires only a small welding gap fill (I always use stainless sticks or TIG weld it, but you may be stuck with someone who only does wire-feed or MIG).
Clamps will not work in this case, as the dissimilar size is not standard (ie 2.0" -> 2.25") - it's best to have it welded, anyhow. Clamps that join two dissimilar sizes invariably leak, so even if you could use them, I'd discourage it.
The easiest method on the American market is to cut just before and just after the res/cat section, then replace the section with 2.25" stainless 18ga (if available - remember you can always order this before going to a shop that only uses aluminized). The 2.25" slips over nicely and requires only a small welding gap fill (I always use stainless sticks or TIG weld it, but you may be stuck with someone who only does wire-feed or MIG).
Clamps will not work in this case, as the dissimilar size is not standard (ie 2.0" -> 2.25") - it's best to have it welded, anyhow. Clamps that join two dissimilar sizes invariably leak, so even if you could use them, I'd discourage it.
#123
#124
It's not too bad with the stock cat. It's MUCH worse with an open catless DP or even the Akrapovic (brain-jarring).
Quick advice for doing that - make the cuts and use band clamps (tight, of course) to put the section back on. Again, make sure the band clamps are on tightly before going on any public roadway. It doesn't sound pretty, but better than wide open. Costs all of $3.99 a piece at any AutoZone. You might even get lucky and find 2 1/8" band clamps.
I've seen this done before with success. Remember that if you drive with the section cut out, the ONLY thing holding the entire rear section on to the car are the two rubber exhaust hangers. Food for thought.
Quick advice for doing that - make the cuts and use band clamps (tight, of course) to put the section back on. Again, make sure the band clamps are on tightly before going on any public roadway. It doesn't sound pretty, but better than wide open. Costs all of $3.99 a piece at any AutoZone. You might even get lucky and find 2 1/8" band clamps.
I've seen this done before with success. Remember that if you drive with the section cut out, the ONLY thing holding the entire rear section on to the car are the two rubber exhaust hangers. Food for thought.