Thanks that helped Not something I would want to do (right now at least ) Looks good though

 

the throttle bodies are out there.....



There was also another type out there but that relied on a mechanical accelerator pedal rather than the MINIs electronic pedal....then you going to have to overcome all the ECU probs then....

 

So you don't have to worry about connectors working themselves loose? Since some of you have already done this stuff, why not post your details? Also, here's my 2 cents: 200hp is not out of line. There are 4 cylinder engines on the road that come from the factory with near that. Remember the original BMW M3? As long as I own my MINI, it will be continuously modified for more power and handling just because I can't stop! I love to hot rod and can't find a cure. I've seen some good ideas here. I think the original intake manifold has to go- too sharp of turns for easy airflow. And I have a CVT. Go on and slip if you want, darlin'! -Jeffy.

 

These motors use "better [lighter component] technology" AND those 200 hp 4's have HIGHER DISPLACEMENT too. Our car would need 125 hp per liter normally aspirated. You're hardpressed to find a 'factory' car doing that which isn't either a) an S2000 revving to 9500 (?) rpm or a super-exotic.

 

How does my CBR 600 motorcycle engine produce so much power from only 600cc's? RPM's! 14,000rpm redline. More fuel can be burned in a given distance, thereby producing more power. This same thing can be accomplished by the engine displacement being larger, but then you can burn more fuel all the time, not just when you rev it up. The 600cc engine has a very short stroke, and a relatively large bore, allowing relatively large valves. We can emulate some of this by longer duration cam, heavier rate valve springs, and I don't know what the rods are good up to. If our engine could rev to 7000rpm, it would help. I honestly don't know what mods this requires, but I'm sure some of our good racing "cheaters" already do just this. -Jeffy.

 

The European spec' EVO produces 137 BHP / liter.

Our engines will rev that high with MTH (provided you ask for your redline to be raised. But, honestly, what gain are you expecting from that? Our peak torque is at 4000RPM, and our peak horsepower is at 5800RPM. At 7000RPM, you're just spinning the crank really really fast.
Also, our current redline is 6850, which is close enough to 7000, and there's no power there. Look at my old dyno plot:

At 6500, you're down to 90 horsepower and less than 75 lb-ft of torque. Without some serious re-mapping, raising the redline will accomplish nothing in this car.

 

both in, and out of the engine. Usually, the head is the weak link- either the valves and/or ports are too small, or the ports are shaped poorly. I'm afraid some of our racers aren't going to give up their tricks for fear that they will create more competition. How can you win if you teach your competitors? Obviously, you gain nothing by raising the rev limit on a stock engine, because there are flaws that limit that high rpm airflow. I'm talking about modifying for top-end power. Yes, you will lose some low rpm power, but you lower the gearing to compensate. What do today's F1 engines displace( in c.c's), and how much power do they make at what stratospheric rpm? -Jeffy.

 

This is my target as well, but I am considering the M7/Cosworth mods for the engine. I'll keep searching NAM for info, but if anyone has posted anything yet can you drop me a line? Many thanks.

'06 MC, Astro Black and Silver

 

I eventually gave up on trying to thrash my car, but before I did, I got sneaky.

It occurred to me that increasing power was an ever-increasing expense race with diminishing returns, and with a baby coming, I needed my MINI to be reliable transportation.

With engine mods off the table, that left me with one (and only one) choice: gearing. I went and ordered myself a set of 205/40R16 Falken RT615's. This tire is 2" shorter than the stock tire, 8.15% smaller. That's an 8% boost in gearing, and let me tell ya: the Cooper accelerated like a freakin' rocket. The Falkens are 3lbs lighter than my old tires, and they're on SSR Comps, so rotational mass was greatly diminished, too.

I have absolutely no doubt that, with the CAI, exhaust, and coil-pack, the shorter gearing afforded by the tires made my car as quick off the line as any stock S.

So my advice is to pursue speed in other means than just engine mods. My change didn't affect one thing under the hood, and there was no question of warranty, and I got the side-benefit of lowering the car another inch.

You don't need to produce 140 or 150 at the crank: you need to put the engine's power on the street.

 

Head/cam (a must)
Injectors
software upgrade
header
exhaust with electronic cutout (you'd be surprised how much this helps)
Test pipe (no cat unless you got to pass emissions in your state)
Intake (ITB's the best choice, obviously)
light weight flywheel
power pulleys
change final drive gear ratio
LSD (if you dont have one)

and alot of dead presidents...

 

Interesting advice. I wonder if it is possible to reprogramme the odometer so that it shows correctly? I'm not a huge fan of having the odo and speedo read completely wrong, but I do like your idea!

 

You might try Yellow Box at http://www.blackrobotics.com/.

Lots of S2000 owners used it with shorter gearing.

 

While having the odo tick by too quickly wasn't very good for my warranty period, having the speedo consistently 8% high made it easier to obey the speed limit. I usually drive about 10 over, and when the speed limit is 65, I like the speedo to read 75. Of course, when my speedo reads 75, I'm actually going 69. 'Round these parts, they generally won't ticket for anything less than 5 over.

 

Can somebody tell me who to contact about a more aggressive cam? -Jeffy.

 

I'm running the Schrick, which I think complements some head work rather well... power is excellent from 3K to redline, but it really screams from 4.5K up...

I think 140 at the wheels is achievable. I might be there now (conservatively, I'd guess 130-135), if I'd ever get back to the dyno. Car sure feels much more alive since I did my head work and got the cam and upgraded MTH.

FWIW, with an ITB setup, good aftermarket ECU, lots of tuning, plenty of head work, cam, upgraded valvetrain and proper combustion chamber shape, you could see 200hp at 8-8.5K rpms.

 

200hp, I really doubt it. 2.0L SOHC Neons with the same work barely touch 200hp NA. With that setup, I believe 160hp would be a pretty far reach. But the "lots of tuning" would definently be the key.

 

At your service...

 

I know.. I Know!! the S and the MINI dont get along on the net... however IF you ARE thinking head.. we just hit the 200+ wheel HP on a S with pulleys and STOCK inter cooler.. 200+ wheel on a n/a is/has to be expensive.. but if your looking into head.. we do ours to YOUR engine!! if you have a n/a engine we work the ports and bowls for velocity.. and do a racing performance valve job to increase the low lift flow at the valve.. to keep if not IMPROVE the low end!! we can mill and smooth the chambers and raise the compression also.. Killer stainless valves are there also.. but unless you are buzzing the mess out of the engine the stainless are not worth the extra.. just a thought!!

SOOooo... yes the head is a key.. but not all the key!! cool??
Just me.....................................

Thumper

 

Assuming the Cooper's schrick cam is a street (mild?) cam at 260/260, what would you suggest for a head with a race port, larger valves, and stronger valve springs, improved intake manifold, and header w/race cat exhaust? I'm looking for strong power from 3000 and up for track, but slightly still streetable.

 

My target would be to get 145/150 whp on my MC, would that be possible? What should I do to get that result?

Head, cam, headers, 200 cpi cat, catback, CAI, and a tune are the first things that come to my mind. Maybe the S injectors, but I'm not sure they can be fitted. Any other ideas?

 

Software (custom to get the most out of every part)
CAI
full exhaust (header, sportcat., cat-back exhaust)
cam
throttle body
head
gasoline cooling
lighter flywheel
stronger clutch and gearbox (at 140/150hp, the stock ones won't last long)

This setup can get you to 145hp (flywheel).

Reaching 140hp at the wheels without forced induction is near impossible.

The Logan setup gets 150hp (flywheel) with the following mods :

Superchips Bluefin with Lohen LO3 map
Milltek Cat-back exhaust
Modified manifold & removable high-flow cat
Pipercross Viper kit
Iridium spark plugs
Lohen Performance Head
Camshaft
Exhaust valves
Lohen 58mm Throttle body
Replacement gaskets & head bolts
HP : 150 (flywheel)
Price of all the mods : $7000

The Kelleners setup gets 145hp (flywheel) with the following mods :

Software
Intake (modified BMC CDA)
cat-back exhaust
cat.
polished heads
cams
gasoline cooling
iridium spark plugs

Till today, nobody has ever been able to reach 160hp without forced induction.
Breaking 150hp (flywheel) is VERY difficult.

If you take a drivetrain loss of 17% (average), this means that getting to 140hp at the wheels, you would need to have 164hp at the flywheel.

Kind regards

Der Abt

 

Schrick has a very good reputation.
The Schrick cams are known to add hp at high rpm.
Kent cams are known to add more throughout the entire rev range.

 

You made a good choice, Schrick cams have a good reputation.

If you have 130-135hp at the wheels, you would have about 155hp at the flywheel.
In order to achieve that amount of power, you need MANY mods.
I'm not talking about just cam, head and software.
Look at the list of the Lohen and Kelleners package and look at their output.
You would be one of the first in the world to break 150hp at the flywheel.

That's a number you won't reach without forced induction.

 

That's a very realistic dyno with your mods.
You should add it to the dyno thread.

 

A simple software tune (over here in Europe at least) allows 7200rpm.
Of course, adding a CAI and exhaust will help with the flow.

Software, CAI, exhaust, cam and a bigger throttle body are good for +7200rpm.