Limited slip options R50 base w/ Getrag 5 speed
#1
Limited slip options R50 base w/ Getrag 5 speed
I'm dying on the autocross course with my base Mini (2006 with Getrag 5-speed). I need an LSD that will give me the grip I need on the course. Everything I'm seeing is for the S model.
There has to be something that's compatible. Suggestions?
Thanks,
John
There has to be something that's compatible. Suggestions?
Thanks,
John
#5
If you do go with a 6 speed swap and the 6 speed LSD, The LSD is for the 6 speed. I don't think there was ever an LSD aftermarket for the 5 speed:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-Cooper-R53-S-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W11B16A/Drivetrain/Differential/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-Cooper-R53-S-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W11B16A/Drivetrain/Differential/
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#7
It is the 5-speed Getrag, not the Midland. Figured there has to be something for it. If I decide to convert the car to SCCA ITB I will need to get a LSD for it.
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#9
I wonder if you could just use the differential out of a Getrag 6 speed in the 5 speed? I remember reading somewhere that you could, but have no idea what the source was. I also wonder if you could just use the clutch and flywheel of the 5 speed for a 6 speed swap. It would give you a lighter setup and be a lot cheaper, if it would work.
#10
I wonder if you could just use the differential out of a Getrag 6 speed in the 5 speed? I remember reading somewhere that you could, but have no idea what the source was. I also wonder if you could just use the clutch and flywheel of the 5 speed for a 6 speed swap. It would give you a lighter setup and be a lot cheaper, if it would work.
#11
My 2003 R50 had a Getrag 6-speed with a Quaife LSD
installed after the original Midlands 5-speed
died. I enjoyed it very much for several years
until someone made a sudden left turn in front
of me a couple years ago and the MINI was totaled.
Don’t need custom hydraulic hoses if you change
the bits they’re attached to and the hoses to
the correct R53 parts.
installed after the original Midlands 5-speed
died. I enjoyed it very much for several years
until someone made a sudden left turn in front
of me a couple years ago and the MINI was totaled.
Don’t need custom hydraulic hoses if you change
the bits they’re attached to and the hoses to
the correct R53 parts.
#12
Check the part numbers on realoem.com - for the Midland-Getrag 6 speed swap also a complete clutch to match the gearbox is needed. TBH I'd go for a 6-speed swap, once you have all the parts it's way easier than what it seems - a competent whop will do it in a few days - it takes around two days of work plus waiting for stuff like custom made clutch hydraulic hoses. The 6 speed, especially the later ones with the shorter gearing, is a glorious upgrade to the car.
#13
I am not going from Midland to Getrag though. My car has the Getrag 5 speed since it is an 05. It has the same gearing as the 6 speed, save the 6th gear. However, it has issues that I can't seem to source parts for so I am waiting for the U Pull It to get an 05+ R52/R53 6 speed so I can pull it for $125. I would also consider another Getrag 5 speed too, if I could just find one cheap!
I'm also going to jump on the bandwagon with the other posters and say that instead of trying to source an LSD for that gearbox, just go to the 6 speed. You can install a Quaife LSD which is a higher quality unit than the stock one, you have a twin layshaft design in the gearbox so the odds of you tearing it up with the R50 power levels is nearly impossible, and you have a multitude of clutches and axles that you can spec for your driving style as well.
#14
I too have an '05 R50 that had the Getrag 5 speed in it and I can tell you with complete confidence that the gearing from first through fifth between the 5 speed and the 6 speed is completely different. Also, the differentials between the two are different as well so using a 6 speed LSD won't bolt into the 5 speed.
I'm also going to jump on the bandwagon with the other posters and say that instead of trying to source an LSD for that gearbox, just go to the 6 speed. You can install a Quaife LSD which is a higher quality unit than the stock one, you have a twin layshaft design in the gearbox so the odds of you tearing it up with the R50 power levels is nearly impossible, and you have a multitude of clutches and axles that you can spec for your driving style as well.
I'm also going to jump on the bandwagon with the other posters and say that instead of trying to source an LSD for that gearbox, just go to the 6 speed. You can install a Quaife LSD which is a higher quality unit than the stock one, you have a twin layshaft design in the gearbox so the odds of you tearing it up with the R50 power levels is nearly impossible, and you have a multitude of clutches and axles that you can spec for your driving style as well.
#16
#17
#18
Before I sold my R50 for an MX5, I watched this page everyday.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...st-thread.html
I have faith that you can keep your R50 on the road.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...st-thread.html
I have faith that you can keep your R50 on the road.
#19
Funny enough, Allmag is actually in my backyard! However, I am waiting to see one in LKQ for $125+ core charge. Right now there are probably 8 R50/R52/R53 MINIS in their various yards in my area as well as a sprinkling of R56s. Sadly, I can't spend money or go see them right now as I am recovering from an injury and am not working. Ideally, I will get my R50 mechanically finished enough to try for MINIs at the Dragon this year. I am still mad at my MINI for breaking right before I took a vacation in that area earlier this year and being forced to do Tail of the Dragon in my Prius C...
(No lsd is available for our R50 5 speed Getrag)
#20
I’ve been running my 2005 R50 with 5 speed Getrag. Only two places on the Dragon would a lsd be helpful, Gravity Cavity coming from TN to NC is one place. I have over 9000 miles on the Dragon and can hold my own with a slow little 126hp R50!
(No lsd is available for our R50 5 speed Getrag)
(No lsd is available for our R50 5 speed Getrag)
#21
I had done 5 track days with my R50 and was able to catch back up to the much more powerful cars in the corners and hassle them a bit, it was always a point by in the straights. The intake and exhaust probably only gave me another 5 to 10 hp in the prefect conditions. My brakes lasted a lot longer than others as at Portland International Raceway, I only used them at most 5 times in the 12 corners. T1 was anchors away, sometimes in T4 with just a slight tap to get a little rotation, T5 was just a short stab to get the car to rotate, T7 moderate brakes to heal/toe to get to 2nd gear and then drop anchor again at T10. At all points in between, wide open throttle. I'd top out at 100mph before T1 and T10.
I'd suggest more aggressive brake pads, better brake fluid and a possible upgrade to the rotors but the rotors may not be all that needed. I had PowerStop Slotted on mine. You give up some strength in the rotor due to the slots but you get a little more heat and gas out which can, but will not always, reduce fade. That being said, I never had any brake fade with the Hawk HPS pads, PowerStop slotted rotors and with either the ATE Super Blue (ATE 200 is I think the same just not blue) or Motul 600. The ATE and Motul were both DOT4 fluid. The slotted rotors, pads and fluid that could take a lot more heat than stock and the car just isn't heavy enough and wasn't able to get going fast enough to generate enough heat to fade. I think that it could if the straights were longer but alas PIR is just 2 miles around.
Once you get your car sorted out, take the a trip to Daytona for a track day. Well worth the money and time.
I'd suggest more aggressive brake pads, better brake fluid and a possible upgrade to the rotors but the rotors may not be all that needed. I had PowerStop Slotted on mine. You give up some strength in the rotor due to the slots but you get a little more heat and gas out which can, but will not always, reduce fade. That being said, I never had any brake fade with the Hawk HPS pads, PowerStop slotted rotors and with either the ATE Super Blue (ATE 200 is I think the same just not blue) or Motul 600. The ATE and Motul were both DOT4 fluid. The slotted rotors, pads and fluid that could take a lot more heat than stock and the car just isn't heavy enough and wasn't able to get going fast enough to generate enough heat to fade. I think that it could if the straights were longer but alas PIR is just 2 miles around.
Once you get your car sorted out, take the a trip to Daytona for a track day. Well worth the money and time.
#22
How did you go about bleeding the brakes to swap the fluid? I am planning to do it myself in the near future but have no idea how to bleed the ABS pump. I did just put new rotors and pads on the car in the last 3k miles, but I do agree with you that a more performance focused pad is needed if I am ever going to really push it. While I'm at it, I will also put stainless brake hoses on the car for better feel. The car is not likely to see many track days (if any) simply because there are't any in the Tampa area. The best I could do would be an 1/8 mile dragstrip run, where it would be the third slowest car I have ever run down the track. ( I have run 12's in the 1/8 in an automatic Sentra I ran just because I was there and it was only $5 more to run a car instead of just spectate!) It's mostly just a back roads car and an occasional commuter, and anything I do to it can't take away it's utility as a backup commuter car. It also has to be able to take long trips as I am planning to do Tail of the Dragon and also a trip to see friends in New York.
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