I'm dying on the autocross course with my base Mini (2006 with Getrag 5-speed). I need an LSD that will give me the grip I need on the course. Everything I'm seeing is for the S model.

There has to be something that's compatible. Suggestions?

Thanks,

John

 

Moving this to the Mod section, should get some more views.

 

I am thinking that if you can find the Getrag model # for your 5 speed you may have better luck on whether there is a LSD for it.

 

Or you can just spend the coin for 6 speed swap. Or you can get the LSD from ECSTuning -- 2 options from $980 --> $1098

 

If you do go with a 6 speed swap and the 6 speed LSD, The LSD is for the 6 speed. I don't think there was ever an LSD aftermarket for the 5 speed:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-Cooper-R53-S-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W11B16A/Drivetrain/Differential/

 

Doing the autocross the 5 speed Midland will blow up anyway so better start looking for the getrag. Look for a "BKL" serial 'box and you`ll have the factory fitted LSD of the S.

 

It is the 5-speed Getrag, not the Midland. Figured there has to be something for it. If I decide to convert the car to SCCA ITB I will need to get a LSD for it.

 

I have never seen one for either of the 5-speed's in the 15 years of owning an R50. I think that your best option is to do the 6-speed swap.

 

I wonder if you could just use the differential out of a Getrag 6 speed in the 5 speed? I remember reading somewhere that you could, but have no idea what the source was. I also wonder if you could just use the clutch and flywheel of the 5 speed for a 6 speed swap. It would give you a lighter setup and be a lot cheaper, if it would work.

 

Check the part numbers on realoem.com - for the Midland-Getrag 6 speed swap also a complete clutch to match the gearbox is needed. TBH I'd go for a 6-speed swap, once you have all the parts it's way easier than what it seems - a competent whop will do it in a few days - it takes around two days of work plus waiting for stuff like custom made clutch hydraulic hoses. The 6 speed, especially the later ones with the shorter gearing, is a glorious upgrade to the car.

 

My 2003 R50 had a Getrag 6-speed with a Quaife LSD
installed after the original Midlands 5-speed
died. I enjoyed it very much for several years
until someone made a sudden left turn in front
of me a couple years ago and the MINI was totaled.
Don’t need custom hydraulic hoses if you change
the bits they’re attached to and the hoses to
the correct R53 parts.

 

I am not going from Midland to Getrag though. My car has the Getrag 5 speed since it is an 05. It has the same gearing as the 6 speed, save the 6th gear. However, it has issues that I can't seem to source parts for so I am waiting for the U Pull It to get an 05+ R52/R53 6 speed so I can pull it for $125. I would also consider another Getrag 5 speed too, if I could just find one cheap!

 

I too have an '05 R50 that had the Getrag 5 speed in it and I can tell you with complete confidence that the gearing from first through fifth between the 5 speed and the 6 speed is completely different. Also, the differentials between the two are different as well so using a 6 speed LSD won't bolt into the 5 speed.

I'm also going to jump on the bandwagon with the other posters and say that instead of trying to source an LSD for that gearbox, just go to the 6 speed. You can install a Quaife LSD which is a higher quality unit than the stock one, you have a twin layshaft design in the gearbox so the odds of you tearing it up with the R50 power levels is nearly impossible, and you have a multitude of clutches and axles that you can spec for your driving style as well.

 

Oh, I would if I could find one I can afford! My income is quite limited though and so I have to weigh my options based on cost. I think I finally figured out the issues with the 5 speed and may have one more go inside of it to try to fix it without spending more than $200. If I don't see a six speed in my price range by the end of January I will be tearing the 5 speed down for the third time in a year to try and solve it's minor issues. (It has an odd noise I know the origin of and have the parts to fix, and it is balky going in to gear. I may just flush the clutch and brake fluid first to see if that helps the hard shifting since the pedal is very low. I also need to replace the clutch after only 3k miles because it chatters on takeup and has done so since it was first installed, despite having the flywheel cut. I figure it will be a 2-3 day job to get it all working right.) Still... I would rather have a six speed if for no other reason than better highway fuel economy.

 

Before I sold my R50 for an MX5, I watched this page everyday.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...st-thread.html

I have faith that you can keep your R50 on the road.

 

after my 6 speed swap my mpg on freeway is about the same but city driving mpg actually run down seen need shifting gear more often that kill mpg. I'm using 06 BKL gear box.

 

Did it drop RPMS in 6th versus being in 5th in the Getrag?

 

Funny enough, Allmag is actually in my backyard! However, I am waiting to see one in LKQ for $125+ core charge. Right now there are probably 8 R50/R52/R53 MINIS in their various yards in my area as well as a sprinkling of R56s. Sadly, I can't spend money or go see them right now as I am recovering from an injury and am not working. Ideally, I will get my R50 mechanically finished enough to try for MINIs at the Dragon this year. I am still mad at my MINI for breaking right before I took a vacation in that area earlier this year and being forced to do Tail of the Dragon in my Prius C...

 

I’ve been running my 2005 R50 with 5 speed Getrag. Only two places on the Dragon would a lsd be helpful, Gravity Cavity coming from TN to NC is one place. I have over 9000 miles on the Dragon and can hold my own with a slow little 126hp R50!

(No lsd is available for our R50 5 speed Getrag)

 

Thanks! I am used to driving momentum cars and don't actually find the R50 to be particularly slow for running corners. I run some of the farm areas in the Northern Tampa Bay Area of Florida out by Dade city and Brooksville with mine, and frequently wind up playing with the sport bikes, LOL! It is the best handling stock vehicle I have ever had and a dream come true to own it. I waited almost 20 years to buy one and managed to find one 95% of how I would have ordered it brand new right down to the color (Hyper Blue with white roof and 16 in wheels). The only differences being I would have liked to have the fog lights, console with arm rest (I have since added that) and the Harman Kardon stereo. I bought it broken but with good service history, no rust or accidents and only 83k for $1900 and have been sorting it for the last 6 months. Other than the transmission issues, I want to change the rear shocks to match the new fronts (Bilstein B4) and get 4 new performance tires before I do the Dragon with it. (My 5 year old dry rotted all season radials don't inspire confidence.) There are other things I want to do in the future, but I figure a good stock baseline with decent tires is the minimum I need to be safe. If I could do one other thing it would be a 19mm rear sway bar, but that might stretch the budget too much. I hope I can be there and look forward to meeting you!

 

I had done 5 track days with my R50 and was able to catch back up to the much more powerful cars in the corners and hassle them a bit, it was always a point by in the straights. The intake and exhaust probably only gave me another 5 to 10 hp in the prefect conditions. My brakes lasted a lot longer than others as at Portland International Raceway, I only used them at most 5 times in the 12 corners. T1 was anchors away, sometimes in T4 with just a slight tap to get a little rotation, T5 was just a short stab to get the car to rotate, T7 moderate brakes to heal/toe to get to 2nd gear and then drop anchor again at T10. At all points in between, wide open throttle. I'd top out at 100mph before T1 and T10.

I'd suggest more aggressive brake pads, better brake fluid and a possible upgrade to the rotors but the rotors may not be all that needed. I had PowerStop Slotted on mine. You give up some strength in the rotor due to the slots but you get a little more heat and gas out which can, but will not always, reduce fade. That being said, I never had any brake fade with the Hawk HPS pads, PowerStop slotted rotors and with either the ATE Super Blue (ATE 200 is I think the same just not blue) or Motul 600. The ATE and Motul were both DOT4 fluid. The slotted rotors, pads and fluid that could take a lot more heat than stock and the car just isn't heavy enough and wasn't able to get going fast enough to generate enough heat to fade. I think that it could if the straights were longer but alas PIR is just 2 miles around.

Once you get your car sorted out, take the a trip to Daytona for a track day. Well worth the money and time.

 

How did you go about bleeding the brakes to swap the fluid? I am planning to do it myself in the near future but have no idea how to bleed the ABS pump. I did just put new rotors and pads on the car in the last 3k miles, but I do agree with you that a more performance focused pad is needed if I am ever going to really push it. While I'm at it, I will also put stainless brake hoses on the car for better feel. The car is not likely to see many track days (if any) simply because there are't any in the Tampa area. The best I could do would be an 1/8 mile dragstrip run, where it would be the third slowest car I have ever run down the track. ( I have run 12's in the 1/8 in an automatic Sentra I ran just because I was there and it was only $5 more to run a car instead of just spectate!) It's mostly just a back roads car and an occasional commuter, and anything I do to it can't take away it's utility as a backup commuter car. It also has to be able to take long trips as I am planning to do Tail of the Dragon and also a trip to see friends in New York.