Should I buy it? And what all do I need to know about it? It seems to be at a reasonable price.

What are the Pros and Cons? Anyone have a camshaft installed?

This is is:
MINI MANIA RACE CAMSHAFT - R50 MINI COOPER
Ground to Mini Mania's exacting specifications by a major OEM camshaft supplier, this high performance 'race' camshaft increases horsepower and torque throughout the RPM range. The camshaft can be used with the stock or ported cylinder head and stock valve springs. A great way to improve performance without disassembling the motor – a difference you can feel!

Fits 2002-2006 R50 Cooper Hatchback, and the 2005-2008 R52 MINI Cooper Convertibles. We measure the stock Cooper camshaft duration at close to 160 degrees, this race cam has a duration of 220 degrees! You will for sure measure a big improvement! Professional installation is recommended.



Any help will be great

 

the mod worths a lot more if you get you stock head to port and polish...

Personaly i choosed Newman camshaft..

 

A smooth ride is the last thing I am worried about. And getting the head port and polished wouldnt be a problem.

I am researching it and I will give in depth results if I do carry out the plans (which I probably will)

Thanks for the help guys more would be nice too lol

 

Bootsy, did,nt notice your mod list before. Hey, the BEST next thing you can get for the Cooper would be a super light flywheel/clutch. This would be a better gain then a cam.

 

i was looking into that too alittle bit. I may.

I think I may get a cam then flywheel, then a tune.

Then idk from there haha.

Do you have a lightweight flywheel?

lol are we the only two in this thread?

 

Yes, I have a lot of stuff on my car, but it's also an S.
If your after quickness with your car then a light flywheel will do much more then a cam. Up to you.

 

Does anyone actually have any before and after dyno number? Or do people in the Mini community generally not get there cars dynoed? This is purely for my own curiosity.

 

Greg don't the Coopers have a lightish stock flywheel(much lighter than our S's)?

A more breathable cam will help out with your aftermarket intake and exhaust. Have fun!

Jeremy

 

Jeremy,
Lighter, but not 8 lbs.
Just depends what one is looking for. I just don't see putting a "race" cam on a street car. Yea, with worked head, tuned headers and intake, and an ecu tune, then it might be a very cool car. In fact I'd like to drive it! But you also now have a car that is going to be a bit of a pain to keep running right.
Anyway, I defer to Mini Mania to guide Bootsy on this mod since it's their cam. I respect Don as he's been in the Mini business way longer then anyone here.

 

Yes talk to Don at Mini Mania. He was one of the 1st out of the gate this side of the pond tinkering with the R50 as I remember.

Jeremy

 

I second this.

Anyway. A light flywheel I read some where is much lighter than the stock Non-S flywheel. H/o let me look...

Ok stock for the S is 27 lbs and stock for the Non-S is 17 lbs.

The lightweight flywheel for the Non-s is 8 lbs and thats more than half the weight of stock.

What are your experiences with one installed?

 

It's on my race car. I thought it would be much more difficult to get off to a start with, but was not so bad. Of course the lighter mass means more stalls at leaving a light, but once you get used to it, no problem. You wil pick up revs quite a bit quicker.
We put a light flyweel in Brownmini last years. He is a member here and can really give you the best feedback. Not as light as mine, but light.

 

Newman protects their distributors in each country. The have contacted IB and the admins have been instructed to remove posts about purchasing their products out of the established dealer network.

 

I was unaware that RMW was a Newman cam distributer...sorry

 

We have special grinds that are made especially for us that we have paid to have made proprietary

 

Boosty mini i have a lot more mods than you do.. and i can't help notice you have a lot of custom "jobs", have you test them?

What gearbox have you got?

I've broke 3 midlands now i'm in a cooper S one(aleluia)

Why not decat your car and install an o2 simulator?

Mill the head or put a thinner head gasket(more compression=more power)...

I personally recomend you to do a lot of reading first!

i to do not advise you for the race cam.. check newman cams site and do some reading about camshafts...

 

The thing about a long duration cam profile is they generally shift the power band into a higher RPM range. This is usually fine (if not desired) for track use, but less so for a street car where low-end power is needed from time to time... which the Cooper is somewhat lacking in to begin with.

 

[quote=ItaMamuel;2639831]Boosty mini i have a lot more mods than you do.. and i can't help notice you have a lot of custom "jobs", have you test them? I have 2, Thats just intake and exhaust and they are no different from aftermarket parts

What gearbox have you got? Midlands and I am no where near the HP to break one

I've broke 3 midlands now i'm in a cooper S one(aleluia)

Why not decat your car and install an o2 simulator? Not fond of Decatting

Mill the head or put a thinner head gasket(more compression=more power)... Too much work ATM

I personally recomend you to do a lot of reading first! What are you talking about, thats what I am doing.

i to do not advise you for the race cam.. check newman cams site and do some reading about camshafts... I do not mind it being a race cam as I have already stated, but I am now looking to a company that is manufacturing a cam that will produce the same HP without port and polishing the head, so they say.


Thanks everyone

 

I think more of what he's talking about is researching exactly what a cam does and how changes can affect your engine. This is really more "basic engine theory" and not info you're going to find here. I have multiple books on the subject. Even what I stated is somewhat general.

Part of the issue is that back in the "old days" most camshafts had fairly conservative profiles. This was due to the drivability and emissions requirements of their time and limited by the fueling and spark technologies. The technology that controls the fuel and spark in modern engines is such that cam profiles can be much more aggressive with minimal drawbacks. The side effect of this is that aftermarket cams tend to have very little effect on increasing HP (especially for how much they cost) and usually hurt driveability. Replacing the cam can increase power, but only as part of an overall plan that includes more extensive mods.

Aftermarket cams for the MINI have been around for years... MINIMania's almost since the car was first introduced. I spent the better part of 2004 drooling over their various "kits". But I have since learned better.

 

GOD...Now im back to where I started...

Whats a part I should get now? Considering the lightweight flywheel...

 

go flywheel!! and when your in there throw in an LSD!! in my experience Mini Mania is a bit over priced you can get the same parts else ware for less

 

Yeah Im getting the flywheel

 

sooo have we agreed on no cam shaft lol,
because my plan is to turbo my non s and swap out the tranny(along with other things of course), but i have been on the fence with getting a new cam. i am in the process of purchasing a new head off of a stock s engine. will these mods (along with others) be enough "planning" for a racing cam shaft to be worth it?

 

Maybe... maybe not... a cam meant for hi-rpm HP in a N/A motor is usually not the best grind for a forced induction motor... again... back to basic cam function theory... as well as carefully selecting parts so they work together well as a whole. This article is some good reading. Although the engine in question is a classic Volvo, the basics apply to any engine:

http://www.vclassics.com/archive/badmotor.htm

I would believe the stock cam for an S engine should "in theory" work fine for a low to mid boost MC turbo engine. You could probably run this for some time while building up a stronger short block based on an S engine. Then, when [probably] the MC motor blows up (you're still putting boost on internals not designed for it), cross your fingers it doesn't take the head with it and transfer over everything to the stronger base. More expensive in the long run, but you should be ableto spread the costs out over a longer period of time while still having some fun and learning.

 

Any feedback? Is the MC still driveable in normal (road) conditions?
I'm thinking to buy it, but i'm afraid the torque will be shifted too much to higher revs, even though it is listed as a "fast road" camshaft

Waiting for you impressions...