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Rough 1960's Mini Cooper Help Identifying
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[I found this Mini Cooper locally in Eastern WA and was wondering if you could help me identify this car. It says 1965 on the ID tag under the hood. It was a bill of sale only car and I think it will be good for parts only as the rust is pretty bad in the floors and trunk. I need some suggestions on this car. My initial thoughts were to restore it, but now I think I may need one that has less rust.
I noted that it has two carburetors,Is this just a standard Mini Cooper, Any idea on what this is worth?Should I just part it out or ? Thanks, Aaron Riddle my direct email is (riddlespokane@comcast.net) |
Looks like a MK1 Minimatic to me. Not a Cooper, just an automatic Mini. I don't think the carbs are standard. It is quite easy to drop in a standard engine and gearbox but probably not worth the effort considering the condition.
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educaye me ....
Originally Posted by Rick-Anderson
(Post 1212271)
Looks like a MK1 Minimatic to me. Not a Cooper, just an automatic Mini. I don't think the carbs are standard. It is quite easy to drop in a standard engine and gearbox but probably not worth the effort considering the condition.
I pick out ther grill shape, sliding windows, exposed hinges then start looking at the little I can see in the engine compartment. I'd like to see the tail lites, and note that the front t/sig's are replaced with???? Inquiring minds want to know..... >>>>> ahhhhh, the housing/bell at left of eng I didn't recognz is the auto tranny.....got it..... In quest of learning something new everyday....I'm good for Monday. Thanks. |
Note that there is only one master cylinder. The bell housing doesn't look like anything I've seen with a clutch, either. Just a guess...
Madoc |
Look at the engine photo. On the left is where the clutch housing and drop gears should be. The housing there indicates and automatic trans.
It is a Mk1 Mini by the door handles (no Mk2 button). The motor has its id tag by the generator. Post it and we can tell you what it is. I suspect someone has replaced the original with a 1275 Austin America motor. It has a 12g1318 smog (post 68) head on it. On the slam panel, left of where the hood latch is you can see a tag welded. that has the body #. Between the radiator and fender there should be a radiator shroud with a black tag with the VIN#. It was only riveted on so may be moved elsewhere in the engine bay. Given that it is a std Mini, an automatic, and very rusty, I'd say pass. There aren't many parts on that shell to sell any way. The block would have to be modified to fit a manual trans. Not worth the hassle. Now, to a mini fanatic a few small pieces may be worth keeping. The wiper motor, the washer bottle, the head, generator, distributor, glass (if it is Mk1 the back glass is NLA), subframes (if good) and any good trim pieces. Buy the best body shell you can afford. |
Hmm
It was so cheap that I bought it. I should have made it clear in the first post. I bought it for $300. I figured that worst case scenario it would be a conversation piece and maybe a covered sand box for the kids in the backyard. So for that kind of money I am wondering what I should do with it. I decided tonight to just find one that has a nice body even if I need to import it.
Do you folks think there are $300 in parts on this car? Thanks Aaron |
I would buy it from you if interested? what are you asking? I will come and pick up as well..
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mini
Sure I would sell it. I will buy a Mini Classic but I need to learn alot before I buy the next one. No idea on what it is worth?
I live in Spokane, WA. That is a long long way from you. I will send you alot more photos also. Thanks Aaron |
Tag
Does this help ID it?
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Pics
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pics
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Originally Posted by Minimad
(Post 1212444)
Given that it is a std Mini, an automatic, and very rusty, I'd say pass. There aren't many parts on that shell to sell any way. The block would have to be modified to fit a manual trans. Not worth the hassle. Now, to a mini fanatic a few small pieces may be worth keeping. The wiper motor, the washer bottle, the head, generator, distributor, glass (if it is Mk1 the back glass is NLA), subframes (if good) and any good trim pieces. |
Since you already bought it - if you can safely get it running and driving, I would keep it and drive it as a beater. The auto transmission is very fun to drive! :thumbsup:
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12H185 indicates its a 1275 motor - likely an Austin America swap
VIN # info: 1959 Through September 1969 – English Built The general format for these early cars is: A-A2S7L-###A First position (“A” in the above example): A = Austin (other than Cooper and S) C = Austin Cooper or Austin Cooper S K = Morris Cooper or Cooper S M =Morris R = Riley W = Wolseley Second position (also “A” in the above example): = A series engine. Any standard Mini engine for the period: 848cc 970cc Cooper S 997cc Cooper 998cc Cooper and non-Cooper 1071cc Cooper S 1275cc Cooper S Third position(s) (“2S” in the above example): = Body type: 2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five) B = Moke (“Buckboard”!) U = Pick-up. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other. V = Panel van. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other. W = Estate (with or without wood). Officially, “Dual-purpose” Fourth position (“7” in the above example): = Series of Austin, or Morris, etc.: 1 = Mk I Riley Elf, Wolseley Hornet, and Austin/Morris Moke 2 = Mk II Riley Elf or Wolseley Hornet 3 = Mk III Riley Elf or Wolseley Hornet 4 = Mk I Morris 6 = Mk II Morris 7 = Mk I Austin B = Mk II Austin Fifth position (“L” in the above example): D = De-Luxe. L = Left hand drive. Right hand drive was not designated S = Super De-Luxe Number positions (“###” in the above example): = The sequential build number: The first car at Longbridge was number 101, as was the first at Cowley. From then on, each factory continued with their own number sequence regardless of the model; e.g., Saloon, Van, etc. In other words, each model did not start at 101 and maintain its own sequence. Saloons and Vans, etc., are mixed in the number sequence along with the Cooper and Cooper S models. The number sequence was into seven digits, #######, by the end of September 1969. Last position (“A” in the above example): = Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only” This seems to be used inconsistently on English built cars and it is understood that the car was built at the “normal” factory if the letter is left off; e.g., an Austin, Riley or Wolseley at Longbridge may or may not have an A after the sequence number. Yes, there were Austin Minis built at the Morris plant in Cowley and Morris Minis built at the Austin plant in Longbridge. Note that all English built Cooper and Cooper S models (Austin and Morris) as well as Riley Elf and Wolseley Hornet models were built at the Longbridge, Austin plant. A = Longbridge M = Cowley Examples: A-A2S7-123456 (or A-A2S7-123456A) A right hand drive, Mk I, Austin Mini Saloon built at Longbridge M-A2S6-1234567 (or M-A2S6-1234567M) A right hand drive, Mk II, Morris Mini Saloon built at Cowley C-A2S7L-123456 A left hand drive, Mk I, Austin Cooper or Cooper S R-A2S2-123456 A right hand drive, Mk II, Riley Elf A-AB1L-123456 A left hand drive, Austin Moke M-AU4-123456 A right hand drive, Mk I Morris Pick-up |
so if I read correctly, you have A/ A2S7(or A?)L 2107 M
which is: A=Austin A= A series 2S= 2 door Saloon 7 (or A?)= Mk1 (or is it A for Mk1 Automatic?) L= Left hand drive 2107= 2,006 Mini built (2,107-101) M= Cowley Plant (your Austin was built on the Morris line) |
Originally Posted by Minimad
(Post 1214041)
12H185 indicates its a 1275 motor - likely an Austin America swap
VIN # info: 1959 Through September 1969 – English Built The general format for these early cars is: A-A2S7L-###A First position (“A” in the above example): A = Austin (other than Cooper and S) C = Austin Cooper or Austin Cooper S K = Morris Cooper or Cooper S M =Morris R = Riley W = Wolseley Second position (also “A” in the above example): = A series engine. Any standard Mini engine for the period: 848cc 970cc Cooper S 997cc Cooper 998cc Cooper and non-Cooper 1071cc Cooper S 1275cc Cooper S Third position(s) (“2S” in the above example): = Body type: 2S = 2-door saloon/sedan. Caution: bureaucratic bungles often interpret this as 25 (twenty-five) B = Moke (“Buckboard”!) U = Pick-up. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other. V = Panel van. Caution: U and V can be mistaken one for the other. W = Estate (with or without wood). Officially, “Dual-purpose” Fourth position (“7” in the above example): = Series of Austin, or Morris, etc.: 1 = Mk I Riley Elf, Wolseley Hornet, and Austin/Morris Moke 2 = Mk II Riley Elf or Wolseley Hornet 3 = Mk III Riley Elf or Wolseley Hornet 4 = Mk I Morris 6 = Mk II Morris 7 = Mk I Austin B = Mk II Austin Fifth position (“L” in the above example): D = De-Luxe. L = Left hand drive. Right hand drive was not designated S = Super De-Luxe Number positions (“###” in the above example): = The sequential build number: The first car at Longbridge was number 101, as was the first at Cowley. From then on, each factory continued with their own number sequence regardless of the model; e.g., Saloon, Van, etc. In other words, each model did not start at 101 and maintain its own sequence. Saloons and Vans, etc., are mixed in the number sequence along with the Cooper and Cooper S models. The number sequence was into seven digits, #######, by the end of September 1969. Last position (“A” in the above example): = Assembly plant. Officially, “Internal Use Only” This seems to be used inconsistently on English built cars and it is understood that the car was built at the “normal” factory if the letter is left off; e.g., an Austin, Riley or Wolseley at Longbridge may or may not have an A after the sequence number. Yes, there were Austin Minis built at the Morris plant in Cowley and Morris Minis built at the Austin plant in Longbridge. Note that all English built Cooper and Cooper S models (Austin and Morris) as well as Riley Elf and Wolseley Hornet models were built at the Longbridge, Austin plant. A = Longbridge M = Cowley Examples: A-A2S7-123456 (or A-A2S7-123456A) A right hand drive, Mk I, Austin Mini Saloon built at Longbridge M-A2S6-1234567 (or M-A2S6-1234567M) A right hand drive, Mk II, Morris Mini Saloon built at Cowley C-A2S7L-123456 A left hand drive, Mk I, Austin Cooper or Cooper S R-A2S2-123456 A right hand drive, Mk II, Riley Elf A-AB1L-123456 A left hand drive, Austin Moke M-AU4-123456 A right hand drive, Mk I Morris Pick-up Thanks |
wouldn't suprise me if he just rambled that off the top of his head ........he's a mini machine........:lol: :thumbsup:
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www.minimania.com tech & articles section -> full credit due to Chuck Helecker (WA) who knows more Mini facts & trivia than I could ever hope to stumble upon.
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Chuck Helecker know's alot about the South African mini's as well.....so if you are one of the lucky proud owners of a south african mini talk to him......
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thanks
Wow that is amazing. I was on the road for a few days and returned to find this translation. Thanks Minimad for that amazing amount of facts.
So this leaves me wondering if this is a car worth restoring or due to the extensive rust be sold for parts? I thought I was buying a Mini Cooper but the price was right so ohh well. Aaron |
questions
Early on in this post it was noted that this car was not worth much due to condition. You guys are still speaking in some terms that I cannot gauge?
Is the car still something to part out due to it's minimal value after what was posted by minimad? thanks Aaron |
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