Now that's a neat idea! No more swearing at that fitting trying to get it off, LoL. To avoid hydo-locking and insure even distribution over all cylinders, take at least 5 min. to add each 5oz treatment. Also, might be wise to wash the fitting and tube in soap and water after use. The Seafoam could dissolve them! I'm gonna try your trick myself. Thanks !!

 

Thanks Dwight!
The hydro-locking is my concern. I thought I'd pour 5-6 ounces of the Seafoam into a measuring cup and just let the motor slowly suck it into PCV using the 1/4" tubing. I'll lift the tube in and out of the Seafoam just to slowly let it into the motor. I just want to be sure I don't let it pull in too much at once!

 

To avoid sucking in the Seafoam too fast, go to the hobby/craft store and get a plastic bead with a smallish hole in the middle that's big enough to just barely allow you to cram it into the tubing you're using. For the same procedure on Miatas, Mazda sells an "oriface" for installing into the hose to restrict the flow of the "top engine cleaner" (Seafoam) in this way to prevent hydrolock. The "oriface" is nothing more than a plastic bead.

 

grueinthebox, Great Idea!
I'll check that out tomorrow.

 

I have to credit Mazda with the idea... Like a sucker, I actually bought the Mazda one the first time I did the cleaning on a Miata not knowing what I was paying for. If anyone wants to overpay for a bead, it's Mazda part number E5B6 13 986.

 

i can do that... Thanks!

 

I Seafoamed my Mini today using the BSH Boost Tap for access. It worked very well, almost too well. "Sunny" has 17,800 miles on her, mostly local miles as it is my daily driver. I put 6 ounces of Seafoam in a measuring cup and hooked the hose up to the BSH Boost Tap. I put a small bead in the end of the hose to restrict the flow, as "grueinthebox" suggested. The vacuum still tried to suck the Seafoam in faster than I expected! The benefit of using the Boost Tap with the bead restricting the air flow was that the Mini idled almost normally since I was not allowing unrestricted air flow in through the open vacuum line.
I left her sit for twenty minutes and started it up. Boy did it smoke! "Sunny's" engine stumbled three times before leveling out to normal idle. Took her for a spin and seem fine. I want to do it two more times, and hopefully, with the BSH OCC installed, will eliminate the carbon buildup.

 

What a slick idea guys . Sure beats squeezing a baby bottle for 7-8 min. Might try it today just for fun, LOL. To give you an idea of how effective the BSH OCC system works, check my post (#127) in the "BSH catch can and boost port install" thread. Never expected the output side of the can to be dry after 7K, but it was! BTW, about half that 7K was at sustained speed and fairly high boost so crank case pressure would have been fairly high. No, I ain't saying where this took place as the HP in three states might still be looking for me!

 

Im a bit cofused... which one should i get here? the $5.99 or $15.39? whats the difference between these two?
http://www.amazon.com/MOTOR-TREATMEN...=pd_sim_auto_3
or
http://www.carfood.net/noname34.html

 

About $9.40! Same thing, I know which one I'd buy.

I paid about $9.00 at Wal-mart, but I didn't have to pay shipping.

 

But it will slow it down a lot.

Matt

 

Matt,

What do you think causes the remainder of the oil/carbon buildup?

I grew up in the propane gas business and had my '74 Bronco with a 302 V-8 running on propane when I was twenty. The inside of the tailpipe was dry and clean with no residue whatsoever. I'm not used to this carbon in the exhaust. If I eliminate the oil from the PCV, is it oil blowing past the rings or some other poor engine design issue?

 

I'll chime in till Matt shows up. Most, if not all, of the carbon build-up will be caused by blow-by of the rings and be in the combustion chamber. Not much can prevent that except Seafoam. As the good "Dr." said, the OCC will only slow the carbon build-up on intake valves way down. It stops oil mist really good, but oil vapors still go through. BTW, I drove propane hay trucks once and they sure do run clean. However, had one one lean-out once with 15 tons on board. EVERYTHING went through the crankcase!

 

I did the seafoam twice the same afternoon. The engine (icon) light came on. I reset it with the PLX. The car runs fine. Most noticable is the coolant (water) temp is a few degrees cooler. 26000 miles new oil same day. Change at 5000 miles.

 

so why not just use a smaller, thinner tube instead of the bead thing to restrict the flow?

 

How long can I leave the seafoam in my car? The problem for me is that I work the graveyard shift and wanted to start the process before I go to bed around 6pm and then drive the heck out of it to work at midnight. Is that way too long to leave it in the engine?

 

No more than 500 miles is recommended. It changes the viscosity of the oil, makes it thinner.

 

i sprayed it into the pcv tube around 6pm (2nd round), shut down and left for work around 5:30 am, barely any smoke though. it may have been too long, or the 1st treatment the day before cleaned it all out, which i doubt.

 

You could do that, but it would just make for an exceptionally skinny piece of tubing - something like 1/16"-ish.

 

Okay, finally got around seafoaming the engine. I pulled the PVC hose off and poured it in via a fuel container (used to use it on RC engines) I didn't really "pour" it in, the vacuum sucked it in drips and drabs.

End up pouring about 1/2 to 3/4 of a can in there and the car started smoking like crazy to the end.

I let it sit and started it up. You couldn't even see the driveway, I drove about a mile and a half and you could have found me 5 minutes later...lol.

One question though... do the plugs get fouled? The car actually runs smoother but there is NO power above 4500 rpms.

I haven't pulled the plugs but I'm guessing they are fouled.

Anyone else see that?

Thanks,

Mark

 

YO Mark, I think you put in way too much for a single treatment. 5oz. max per treatment! You probably did foul the plugs. If you didn't throw a code, that's probably all it is. Make sure you take at least 5min to dribble in the Seafoam. BTW, all that smoke you and others report is not the carbon being burned off. One of the solvents in Seafoam is oil based and that's what's causing the smoke. When carbon burns it produces an invisible gas. CO2!

 

5OZ's!!!! Whoops, I did about 12-14 OZ's....

LOL, figures....

I pulled the plugs, they were okay. I've driven it 3-4 times and it's been the same until this last time.

Everything seems back to normal.


Ya'll didn't say anything about 5OZ's....LOL.


Mark

 

LMAO!! You sound like me: when all else fails, read the instructions on the can. It said 1/3 of a 16oz. can/treatment, so I settled on 5oz as I couldn't figure out how to measure .333oz, LOL.

 

Sad part is I only did 1/2 a can at first... it didn't seem like it was doing anything so I added some more.

Oh well, at least it's working....

Thanks ya'll,

Mark

 

I only saw one person mention a "check eng light" -- so nobody else had this issue? still a little nervous about trying this.

thanks again for the help!