Just wondering if anyone has an idea on how much it might cost to get this installed at an audio store. I'm just trying to get an idea on prices. So far, if I were to go with a single 10", box, and amp, it would run about $400 installed. I'm trying to find out if I buy this and have it installed, if it will be cheaper.

 

Does anyone know if these are exactly the same? Is Boss and SSL the same company? They look identical (except the SSL unit is black) and the specs appear to be identical. They sell for the same price. I think i'd like th eblack color better. Anyone bought and installed the SSL unit?

 

Well, I guess I'll be answering my own question - Amazon has the SSL Soundstorm USS8 for $122.14. I pulled the trigger since I have free two day shipping with Amazon prime. I guess I'll be doing that rear speaker replacement sooner than later.

 

any idea where/how you are going to mount it.

 

None what so ever - I'll probably start out with it mounted on one side of the boot like this

 

One hint on the bass600, or rather the remote control. When I put it in initially, I didn't run the remote cable too securely. It ended up getting caught in the passenger seat track, which sliced it up.

I re-ran the cable, cutting off the damaged portion, and putting a new (6-pin) connector on the end. Easy for me, as I've got the tools for those connectors, but if you don't, reasonable crimping tools start at around $40 and go up from there.

If you don't connect the remote, the bass600 runs at a preset level. When you connect the remote, you get a very bright blue LED, and the ability to adjust the bass level.

I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.

And the cable is run where it can't get screwed up again!

 

Man - you are becoming my personal stereo consultant! Seriously - I really appreciate you passing on the dos and don'ts which keeps me from making stupid mistakes. I was thinking about mounting the remote beside the Aux input below the switch panel.

What kind of hardware came with your unit? I noticed you hooked up the power to the nearby power outlet in the boot. Any issues with this? Did you just not hook up the remote turn on lead since the outlet only works when the ignition is on?

 

The little blue LED is a bit too bright for my liking to have the remote up front; I've been thinking bottom of the armrest would be a good spot, out of the way but still available.

I ran temporary power from the aux connector, then hardwired into the aux connector. Ran a jumper on the bass600 from the +12 to the remote line, as power is only on at the aux power connector when the ignition is on, which is fine with me.

Enjoy!

 

[quote=k6rtm;2677176]I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.

When in doubt, use Velcro.
If you don't like where it is, the adhesive will come off of most surfaces with Goo Gone. I mounted the remote behind the ebrake handle. I can easily reach it while driving and the LED doesn't shine in my face.

 

Robin how did you mount yours? One would think that to get the most bass it would have to be either placed in the boot on top of the carpet or held in place w/ bungee cord etc to one of the sides of the boot. If it just rests on one side of the boot idk if you will feel as much bass as if it's held against the frame of the car....then again both sides protrude from the actual chasis.

 

I just wedged it behind the passenger seat. Since I replaced the rear seats with a cabinet, it works for me.

Bass tends to be less directional, and will go through stuff much better than higher frequencies. That's why when your neighbor is rocking out, what you hear is the beat. According to a friend, the sole purpose of a sub is to annoy one's neighbors.

So, the location of a sub is much less critical than the location of a tweeter.

 

This is probably a way basic question - How exactly do you do the wiring between the connector and the low-level input to the sub? How do you go from the pins to RCA connectors?

 

I ended up using the low-level RCA jack inputs because I wasn't getting any volume with the high-level multi-pin connector.

After the mult-pin high-level didn't work, I went back to Potter's Electronics in Monterey, CA and bought a pair of RCA Jacks. I previously bought a length of CAT5 cable. I soldered the cable wires to the RCA jacks for the Bass600 side. For the MINI side, I soldered the other ends from the cable to the appropriate pins in the X9331 connector. I popped a pin out of the X9331 soldered the appropriate wire to it, and popped it back in. Then did the next one.

 

I thought with the HiFi system that you only had the option of low-level inputs?

 

Got it today - Installing it tomorrow.

 

Post pics!

 

Will do!

 

You doing high or low level inputs to the amp? And do you have the HiFi system?

I'm stil trying to figure out how to wire from the connector to an RCA plug . If you do it and take pics then I figure I can learn from that.

 

I'm Low-fi (6 speaker) so I'll be using the High Level inputs - sorry!

 

You can buy RCA plugs, just the connectors:

Solder the + to the center of the plug and the - to the harness and you are done. You have to solder 2 plugs, 1 left, 1 right.

 

Oops, I shouldn't depend on memory. It such an unreliable source.

You are right. I got it all backwards in my mind. The multi-pin connector is the high-level inputs. The RCA jacks are the low-level inputs. I did the multi-pin first, then did the RCA jacks when the high-level inputs didn't work.

I'll fix my earlier post.

 

Well, it's installed. It went OK, but not exactly as planned. I am quite pleased with the deep, clear bass the SSL provides. I got that "thumpa thumpa" bass now.


Removing the top panel.


The infamous X9331 connector


The X9331, disconnected


Popping out the pins

This is where things went a little different than planned. I used a piece of CAT5E cable, and tried to solder the cable to the back of the pins. I suck at soldering, and it just made a mess. I decide to use T taps:



T Taps with the CAT5E cable. I found it way too brittle, so I left and bought some 16 gauge speaker wire.


Much better with flexible wire. I tapped the front left and right speakers.



Taking a hint from Robin, and put the subwoofer control behind the hand brake. Works great there, I can adjust with out looking at it. I ran the wire under the console and brought it up between the rear cup holder and console.


Robin wasn't kidding - this sucker is bright!



This seems to be the only logical place to mount it - as discussed in this thread.


I used some cable wrap to clean up the install, and wired the power directly to a 12 volt outlet plug. Taking another hint from k6rtm, I jumpered the remote turn on to the +12v.

Many thanks to Robin and all who have contributed to this thread. I am very pleased with the results!

 

Looks good! I know they sound good as well!

You'll end up tapping into the 12 volt wiring to the aux socket, as those plugs have a habit of working just loose enough (unless you only have smooth roads to drive on).

 

kt6rm,

Can you give details of what you did to tap the 12V adapter? I know I am already severely indebted to you and Robin and all the other contributors, but your experience is invaluable.

Thanks in advance

 

Nicely done. I would have thought Cat5E would be too small of a wire for this use anyway. Maybe if you doubled up the pairs it would work.

Anyone else use Cat5E for this? Seems way too small but maybe I'm . Would it be easier to tap in at the amp's connector, X10266 instead of X9331 if keeping the sub in the trunk?