2013 R60 S ALL4, bone stock to best of my knowledge.

Received error code 2c57 and reduced power warning twice in one long trip. Both read with Schwaben tool, and reset with same. Both times error occurred doing a gentle uphill drive between 60-75mph on northern Michigan "hills". No other symptoms, car runs great. Reset code and can feel it making boost again. Maybe overall slight lack of power now but could be (reverse?)-placebo effect. Error hasn't come back now that I'm home and on flat ground.

Research on here seems to point towards replacing the diverter valve on a hope and prayer, or inspecting if the waste gate is seating correctly under 15" of vacuum. Something about a diaphragm as well. It's not been clear to me what to do if the waste gate is seating properly and the diverter valve has been replaced, but that's by-the-by as I haven't done either yet. I also have noticed a decent amount of oil build up on the outside of the intake vent tube, part of he pcv system and MAP sensor. I don't have a pic but I trust you all know where I mean.

So. First question is what are the best initial diagnostic steps and or repairs that are most likely to resolve the issue? Replace the intake tube and pcv to correct the leak and see if that corrects a pressure imbalance and resolves the issue? Throw a diverter valve at it? Check the wastegate (what to do either way?)?

Next, if it is indeed the turbo needing to be replaced, what's the best option here? I don't have oodles of cash to throw at the car, and I don't really need a tune and a big 42mm turbo upgrade. If performance upgrade was possible for a difference of a couple hundred bucks it might be worth it, maybe $500 would be the line on that one. But step one would simply be to ensure the car can function correctly, and not with a junk turbo that will break in another 5k miles.
Rock Auto replacement turbo options:
Cardone #2N859 - $539.79, Rotomaster #K1030152N - $579.79, Pure Energy #T2105N - $602.79, Standard Motor Products #TBC589 - $1193.7.
ECSTuning.com turbo options:
Website is not responding at he moment but I'm sure there's a plethora of options from stock to high performance
Detroit Tuned;
Factory replacement - $981.99
JMTC Options:
JMTC #JM40 - $849.99

Anyone have experience with any of these, and their longevity? And what else I need to consider replacing? My turbo oil lines were replaced by Detroit Tuned with their highly rated kit, so not sure they need to be replaced again?

Thanks folks.

 

I would start by pulling the diverter valve. Its a relatively simple process, but you will need some longer allen wrenches to reach the bolts. Once the diverter valve is removed, check the diaphragm for tears. If the diaphragm is torn, replace it with the newer version, and you're done. If the diaphragm is good, move on to checking the wastegate.

Checking the wastegate is a little more involved, and might require pulling the downpipe. First, you want to make sure the actuator is pulling the flapper closed, and there is no play in the linkage where it goes through the turbine housing. Then, you want to make sure the flapper is actually sealing inside the turbine housing. (need to remove the down pipe for this check)

If those two checks pass, then I would make sure all the vacuum lines are still good and connected where they need to connect, check that the vacuum accumulator is still holding vacuum, and the vacuum actuator is still good.

 

njaremka, thanks for the reply. Sounds reasonable to me, plus two people support your suggestions.

So check for no play in the wastegate actuator linkage and hole through the housing....is the latter a binding concern or a vaccum loss concern? I guess if the hole is wopped out the next checks are pointless because the turbo already needs to be replaced.

Admittedly I haven't searched here yet and will, but is removing the down pipe a "service position" deal? Maybe it's better to just pull the turbo out and check it on a bench instead of removing down pipe (other than disconnecting it).

I would really like to know people's experience with both performance and longevity of the above replacement turbos. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me to buy a turbo that's half the price of what detroit tuned sells as a factory replacement.

 

I am also interested in the Turbo options. I have a 2015 Countryman S ALL4 (R60). The CEL has been popping up every so often, but it doesn't ever stick and I can't get any codes from the ECU. After driving some time it goes away and the cars performance is not impacted. It seems like a common problem of the turbo dying. Some say it's the waste gate. Either way, I would like to better understand the options and opportunities to "upgrade". Like Jawilli6, I am not looking to sacrifice a limb for performance, but a few hundred dollars between stock and an actual upgrade - sign me up!

 

@njaremka
In your post above you gave me some advice on checking the turbo. I've been kicking the can down the road because it works without the turbo. Now I'm having to pull the head for probably a different issue, but I was checking out the turbo when I got it off. With a Mighty-Vac, putting 15 in hg vacuum on the wastegate actuator, the linkage moves smoothly and freely, pulling the wastegate in. There are two moving parts of the wastegate. The "fork" doing the pulling, and the metal "seal" thats pulled closed. Under 15in vacuum, I can wiggle the "seal" easily. It feels fairly flat against its mating surface, but wiggles around on it. Seemingly not an airtight seal.

That said, time to replace the whole turbo? It's been pushing oil through the intercooler, I know I had a PCV problem, need an oil catch can, but I don't know if the turbo might've been leaking oil in as well. Side note, the intercooler outlet pipe and intake manifold had oil in them as well. I'm pretty far into this money-wise with mini special tools for timing and stuff just to get the head off. If it's time for a turbo, then now is the time. But if maybe that money can be saved, I'd sure appreciate your opinion.

Thanks.

 

I went with the JM40 from JMTC. I couldn't find a JCW turbo available for under $2k, and the rebuilder couldn't fix mine.
For the money, it seemed like the best option. I didn't want to run a tune or upgrade other parts. It comes with a DV installed, so you won't have to worry about replacing that as well.

I have zero info on longevity because it just went in.

 

Is yours a JCW? Mine is not. Just an S. But the company says it works in an S and I've found corroborating evidence on the internet to support it. I guess for almost the same price as a "new" (almost certainly reman.) Borg-Warner turbo, it makes sense. I see JMTC offers both reman and "new" as an option for barely a price difference which is interesting.

Do you notice a low-speed/takeoff performance difference with this turbo? Asking because of their claim of a longer vane, starting boost early.

Would still love anyone's input on whether I should try and reassemble with the old turbo.

 

Did you ever narrow down the issue? I don't have a code reader yet, but I've had a few moments when my CEL would come on during similar criteria: long gentle uphill, but only in top gear, low rpm, cruise control. But it reset itself on shutting down and restarting, with seemingly no issues or loss of power. It doesn't appear to happen when I drive the same stretches spiritedly, which I normally do, but sometimes I gotta be on deer watch or I've got a passenger. My next purchase will likely be a code reader, but I just thought I'd try to prepare myself for anything else potentially coming up besides a dreaded timing chain.

 

I think I did. In post #5 of this thread, I mention bench testing my turbo with a vacuum pump and the wastegate seal not seating all the way, under correct vacuum (5in-Hg). Wastegate seat was not closing completely.

Do you have a turbo? If not, read no further, your answer isn't here.
The advice given to me is first inspect the turbo diverter valve. I jumped the gun and just replaced mine, it didn't make a difference. If you take the DV off, they say to check the diaphragm for cracks/tears. Also, car has to have enough vacuum to pull the wastegate actuator all the way so that's something to check. Next is checking the wastegate control rod for free movement, no binding. If you're this far, and haven't found a problem, it's time to pull the downpipe/catalytic convertor and check the wastegate seat.

I don't know if I could just adjust the wastegate control rod to pull the seat closed. Haven't gotten that far, had other problems. When I finish my full rebuild I intend to just get a new turbo per Leora83's posts above.

Good luck, if you have more questions I'll try to help. Proper Mini scanner is expensive but worth it in the long run. I use the Schwaben one. You'll need it just to put in a new battery!

 

Mine is the JCW.
I have noticed a bit more pull at lower speeds, and an extra kick even at higher speeds when accelerating. It's not dramatic, but it is there.

I would try rebuilding if I had lots of time to spend on it and didn't need the car to be back on the road quickly.

As a side note, I also found JMTC to be decent to work with. They answered emails quickly, shipped promptly, and they were super helpful getting me info to minimise import duties (did a self-clear to bypass UPS customs-clearing charges which are piracy).