Yep, my $864 included shipping so it comes right in line with what car-part.com is offering. Hate that a used part is still so expensive!

 

Started this job this week and now I'm stuck at pulling the sub frame due to the power steering not coming apart from the steering column. I've loosened the nut but it will not come out. Do you guys have any tips or tricks on how to accomplish this? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

I had the same problem so I just removed the steering rack from the subframe and tied it up.

 

Well moved past the steering column and now onto pulling transfer case and transmission. I removed Circlip after breaking 2 pairs of snap ring pliers so I used a pair of needle nose and a screw driver. But now I cannot get the slined shaft out. Then onto the tranny, How/what am I suppose to do to get the tranny out? I know I need to disconnect the shift linkage but I can't get it. Any tips? Also how do i remove the tranny mount or whats the best/easiest method for removing it? Any help would be much appreciated thanks ahead of time.

 

I think life will be easier if you pull the axle shafts out. then you will have enough space to push/slide the transfer case to the side. the cleanest way is to remove the fuse-DME bracket and get the trans mount bracket out. if i remember correctly, the hex nut is size 50mm (http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nk...72.m2749.l2658) i fought with this nut outside and couldnt move it. maybe while TC is still attached, you'll have more luck loosing it. use torch carefully if needed to help it move.

 

anyone have any tips for getting the transfer case back into the transmission? i have everything back together except that. it is slid most of the way into the trans, but i have maybe another inch to go and it will not budge. any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Is it essential to replace the propeller shaft inlay nut? Totally bad to use Red loctite and reuse? Nut threads look good, looks to be undamaged.
Trying to get a car out of the shop on a deadline, would take more time than I have to procure the nut... :(

 

I was unable to loosen the two bolts that hold the ball joint bracket in place. So, I ended up using a 2 prong joint puller. It was able to get just enough purchase on the control arm to run an impact gun on it to break it loose.

For the tie rod, I was able to just thread the nut on backwards just to the top of the joint threads and wack it with a BFH. It came right out with two strikes. No damage to threads.

 

I used a big adjustable wrench on the nut and held the drive shaft with a huge set of channel locks. Gave the scratches a coat of Rustoleum Rust Preventer when I put everything back together. The channel locks wanted to slip, but you can use the chassis to brace the pliers against to give extra grip strength.

 

Yeah, it was necessary for me to remove the transfer case brace and intermediate shaft to get the transfer case out.

 

I also broke two sets of tips for my clip pliers. I ended up using an old allen key of the same size. I cut it into two 1 inch long pieces, shaped and notched the DIY tips so they would quit slipping off the circlip. Even that was only good enough to get the end of the circlip started. From there, a small flat head screwdriver made easy work of getting it back out.

 

I fought with the steering column too, until it literally just came apart on its own. I then understood exactly what I was doing wrong.

After you have the bolt out, all you have to do is swing the knuckle away from the steering box input shaft. Don't try to pull it apart. There is a lip that prevents the knuckle from separating in the event the bolt comes loose for some reason.

 

Hmmm, interesting. I completely missed that warning when I did mine. The threads had no thread locking residue on them. I reassembled with original nut and no thread lock. Someone please let me know if this is a real danger, or if it's one of those liability avoidance steps that manufacturers invoke.

 

I replaced mine with the Clutchmasters FX100 single mass setup, per recommendation from a Mini expert that I really like and have used a bunch to have work done and to call for help when I'm DIYing. I can say that I like it a lot more. The engagement has a more positive feel but doesn't feel all grabby, or herky jerky like the OEM one did. It's a slightly lighter flywheel, too, which I can notice under certain circumstances. The engine just feels a little freer at times.

One thing I will say is that there is the slightest bit of clutch rattle here an there, but it's barely noticeable.

 

FYI, this is the engine support setup I landed on. Turns out it works great as a support for the radiator core support while in installation mode, too.

 

I ended up reusing the nut and have put about 30,000 miles on the car since with no issues.

 

I screwed two big hooks into the ceiling joist and then used tie down straps to support the front end and engine.

 

Did you use loctite?

 

No, just made sure it was tight. I checked it about 2 months ago and it was still tight.

 

ok, thanks. Based on how hard it was to get off, and how it got tighter with each turn on reassembly, it seemed like using red Loctite wouldn't be a great idea if you ever wanted to get it back off again

 

What did that cost you?

 

I just replaced mine in my garage at home...it was a PITA but I got it done. The clutch actually still had some meat left on it, however the throwout bearing seized and the clutch fork bent so it all got replaced while it was apart. All this happened at 130k, I bet the clutch had another 50k left in it. Went with the Valeo clutch kit for around $200, didn't replace the flywheel. The OE clutch in it I saw was a Valeo as well and it looked exactly the same as what I put in it.

 

This persons post was over 3 years ago, and they have been gone that long as well.

 

Hi grussell,

I am new to mini and new to this forum. Did you ever put together a step by step on what you did for this clutch thread? I am considering attempting it with the 2014 R61 I just bought. The clutch is slipping at high RPMs.

Thanks!
timmer77

 

Do you have any specific questions: Job is same as regular R56 except for:

Remove heat shields
Remove driveshaft at transfer case end (giant nut with reverse threads)
Remove front axles
Remove transfer case circlip for right axle stub and pull out of transfer case
Unbolt and remove transfer case