Don't do this: how NOT to change your tires!
 

So I removed my winter wheels and tires last Sunday, and as I planned to torque the bolts correctly upon installing the summer gear, I used my torque wrench and socket for removing the bolts too.
The problem was that my torque wrench is 1/2 inch drive and my 17mm socket is 3/8 drive, so I used a 1/2-to-3/8 adapter.
Well, apparently it's not a good idea to apply 103.3 ft-lb to a 1/2-to-3/8 adapter, because it broke and sent me flying across my driveway and into my brick garage wall. My back still hurts!
It was a US-made adapter, but it probably wasn't reasonable to expect a 3/8" piece to stand up to that. The problem is that the square section that inserts into the socket isn't solid...it has to house the little ball bearing and the spring that holds it in place.
So now I'm the proud owner of a 1/2" drive 17mm socket...and a bottle of Advil.

Ouch!! Feel better soon.
The bright side is that your wheels will not come off...

You're always risking a little bit of pain when you get your nuts torqued. Usually, it's worth it. Glad there was no major damage, just an opportunity to buy a new tool and that's always a good thing. Happy Motoring on your summer tires. :thumbsup:

I don't believe you should use a torque wrench to REMOVE lugs, only to replace them. I bought a 1/2" drive breaker bar at a parts store for use to break the lugs then just use a 1/2" drive/17MM wrench to tighten. Don't even use the torque wrench. Just feel and never had a lug blow off.
Forgot to add, glad you're not seriously hurt. Be careful out there.

Ditto. Never use a torque wrench to remove bolts or nuts.

I'm certainly not enough of an authority to argue, but is the ratchet direction lever just for tightening opposite-hand threads, then? (I used it to loosen simply because it was my longest lever...)

It's just not good for the torque wrench even though you can go both ways with it, it's not meant for loosening bolts. I've heard and read it can throw the calabration off.
No biggy.

I think I paid like $24 for a pretty good 15 or 16" breaker bar that has the 1/2" drive head. Well worth the bucks.

At least you torqued them - good idea to re-check the torque after 500 miles. I had the new wheels come loose on ort MINI after a tire store installed them - now I always re-check after 500 miles of installing new wheels.

The wheel mounting studs they sell help a bunch too when doing wheel work at home.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

:thumbsup: ...use the breaker bar to snug the bolts then torque them in. Doesn't the Countryman come with a wrench in it's little tool kit/jack package?

Glad your OK!:thumbsup:

Yeah, best not to add an extension to a torque wrench. Anytime you add an extension it will also affect the actual Touque (ft/lbs) that you are applying to the bolt. The extension will have some flex to it.

Thats is why if you ever notice at the tire shops of they are doing their job right!! they have an extension on their air tools so they do not apply full pressure to the bolt, then should follow up with a torque wrench.

Getting the lugs tight enough isn't the reason t use the torque wrench, it's getting them EVENLY tight. I didn't believe it either, but it's true - uneven torque on the lugs can cause brake rotor warpage, and can lead to one (or more) lugs coming loose from the uneven torque. I've experienced both! Also, if your brake rotors are slightly warped, remove the wheel, re-torque the lugs, drive 50 miles, check torque, then 100-200 miles before machining. A good percentage of the time you're golden after the drive! Had that happen too.

General rule of thumb: If it's an important part and held on by a bolt or nut, use a torque wrench to make sure it's tightened properly.

Exactly - Back in my '69 Camaro convertible days I learned how rotors will warp without even torque.

:wink:

This is all weird because in my years of cars and trucks, I've never used a torque wrench for lugs and have never, ever had an issue with them loosening up or warping drums or rotors. But, since you all insist, I'll start
using my torque wrench on my wheels.
I do, however, always check them after I've removed them after a few miles. I guess better safe then sorry. :grin:

You can safely use one of the black impact type reducers with your 3/8" socket, but buying the 1/2" drive socket is the better choice.

I agree with not using your torque wrench to loosen lug bolts or other tight fasteners, it will throw the calibration off and you can wind up over or under-tightening the next thing you use it on.

One last comment about proper use of a torque wrench, always release the tension after you're done with it, don't just toss it back in the toolbox with it cranked up to 100 ft lbs, that also will change the calibration. These are precision tools, not breaker bars!

My favorite: the 24" 1/2" drive true breaker bar. (insert masculine grunting noise).

Note that some inexpensive torque wrenches may not be properly calibrated, but are likely "good enough" to get you "close and consistent enough". Harbor Freight often has coupons for 1/2" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches for $9.99... tested them against a Craftsman ad a Mini Garage Day and they both were pretty close in tightening lugs, at least as far as we could tell.

I have 2 HF torque wrenches for this reason...it's good enough for what I need. I also read an article where someone bought a couple of name brands and actually said the construction of the HF was better than that of Craftsman.. Craftsman had better machined surfaces and finishes but the internals were less substantial.