2/12 build, and my clutch is a steaming POS!!

 

6/12 build. 4800mi. No issues.

 

My build was in early January 2012.

I received the new Road & Track magazine yesterday and they had their long term road test summary of the Countryman in the issue. (I would post a link but it is not on the website yet).

It was a mixed review- but they are recommending that consumers buy the automatic as they feel the clutch is too vague and inadequate for the car due to weight and lack of low end torque.

When will BMW/Mini wake up?

 

The idea that your build date somehow matters should be a matter of fact and not speculation, right? Either Mini has changed parts or they haven't.

I could see why they wouldn't want something like that to "get out", but don't non-Mini repair shops need that info?

 

I had a chance to drive in very hilly terrain in the Berkeley hills last weekend. Especially challenging was an uphill gate with stop going into Lawrence Berkeley Lab. The hill holder function worked well and both of us had no problems or stalls(1/2012 build).

 

You were in my neck of the woods. That road along Strawberry Cyn gets pretty steep, but usually it's a straight shot up the hill from the stadium - unless there's a Cal game and then it's a grind...

For what it's worth, my clutch is still holding up at 12k miles on a 11/11 build. I don't care much for the feel of it and I get the burnt smell in some situations, but no sign of failure at this time. The R53's clutch is much more linear and still original with 80k miles on it.

 

6/2011 countryman s, 33,000 miles with original runflat tires and clutch....going strong....

 

How can you tell if the clutch is slipping? Like many others I got my fair share of stall from 1st gear. My car have 3900 miles on it now and the clutch feels like its more notchy now. Not sure is that a sign of the clutch slipping already?

 

I'm the OP of the Smelly Clutch thread whose clutch failed at ~4900 miles. We never had a problem with stalling the car. Rather our problems began with multiple incidents of the clutch getting overheated and burning. Usually during stop and go rush hour city traffic or when going up steep parking garage ramps with moderate exit traffic. Also were situations where the RPM would increase on its own at idle (accompanied by an engine "roar").

Over time, the clutch became softer and softer and engagement points became increasingly vague. At a point a few weeks before the clutch was replaced, there were frequent incidents of slippage. Meaning you would engage first gear, let up on the clutch and the transmission would slip and stutter a bit even though clutch was fully released. My wife took the car out and was so unnerved by the behavior she brought it straight home. I drove to the dealer (just over a mile from our house) and they said clutch was worn down to the rivets. At under 5K miles. With two very experienced manual transmission drivers.

 

I've spent a long weekend with a CMS manual and I got a much better feel for the clutch and what is probably happening with my CM4. If you give the CMS some strong input, one of the wheels spins. If you try to do the same thing with the CM4 the wheels don't spin - the clutch slips or the engine bogs down, since it doesn't have the torque to overwhelm the tire traction; that is, the ALL4 wins. The CMS with manual is a better match with the clutch and transmission.
Now, if the CM4 had some more oomph, I probably wouldn't be having issues with bogging down...
;-)

 

Hmm, good points there. Our All4 system is rumored to be a 50/50 split at start off and low speeds. Maybe if it were just spinning the front wheels we wouldn't be having these problems. We need some 2wd owners to chime in...

 

Thanks for the explaination, so far my clutch doesn't do what you mentioned below. But nice to know the details before the clutch goes.

Tks again

 

I have about 9500 miles on my clutch, and it still feels as solid as when I bought it at 5800 miles ... knock on wood.

I love my CMS All4, but after owning 4 manuals and driving many others over 25 years, the CMS has the worst first gear performance of them all. Either the engine needs more low end torque or 1st gear is too tall or both. Add to that a small clutch plate designed for a much lighter vehicle, and you have a major design problem.

The oxspeed BOV spring helps spin up the turbo for initial power, and the torque arm bushing improves clutch engagement. But if the reports of a stronger JCW clutch are true, then that's what I'm getting if/when this one goes out.

In the meantime, I usually start off with a slightly higher RPM than normal, and that keeps me out of trouble.