Hey guys, I know there's a LOT of info on strut plates to prevent mushrooming but lots of it is old and maybe outdated. I have a strut tower brace on top of that to consider as well. I'll also be replacing my strut mounts. More importantly, is there a preferable type of reinforcement plate I should use if I already have slight mushrooming? And, if possible, are there plates I can use where I can keep my strut tower brace? I saw some guys suggest others to use adjustable mounts instead of reinforcement plates? Could be an option if that actually works.

 

Our ECS ones you would have to remove them, but they are beefy on top: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-plates.html




been running these on both my MINIs for years.


Some people pair them with the ECS ones or if they have a brace already they just go with the madness one, these go on the underside.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-madness-...s/mm-strp~mad/

 

I really appreciate the info and the link. I've read a bunch of stuff off that link as well. I'll be getting ECS UTI's, Lemforder mounts and from what I understand, will have to replace the studs for longer ones on the mounts so I can fit my brace. BTW, you work for ECS or just a huge fan?

 

I work here and been on the forums since about 2004, part of ECS on the forums since 2013.

 

Nice, just ordered those parts off your website last night. Was considering the m7 with brace, but read that your UTIs with current brace could be a stronger setup, not to mention cheaper.

 

Plates on top...will provide about 20% extra strength. Like the black plates above. The only thing they will do is try to keep the studs straight up and down, This does NOT guarantee that the shock tower itself will not move around and still possibly bend. As seen on my car after buying an R53 and taking off that type plate to clean the engine compartment...I had to pry one side off..! Yes, the studs WERE NOT straight up and down..!

Plates between the body and the strut mount, will provide the most protection. Like the red(ish) plates above, from purely an engineering standpoint. This also depends on the plate material and thickness.

Mike

 

This is why I got the UTI's. Seems logical that the under plates will perform better considering they take the impact before the strut tower, AND they lie flat, unlike the STD's which have to contour all the ridges.

 

Been working on MINIs for the last 17yrs and found on the R53 a set of top plates will work fine no need to do under tower plates also.

I find too many downsides to using under tower plates so I don't recommend them. Along with them taking much more work to install they also raise the ride height of the car which also will reduce camber. MINIs need more front camber so we don't want to do anything to reduce it. Also I just pulled a bent under tower plate off a car 3 weeks ago so they are still not bullet proof.

On my personal R53 GP I just use our WMW strut brace with end plates.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-st...e-r52-r53.html

If you want to really solve the problem upgrading to camber plates that are just physically thicker and stronger than the stock strut mounts is a real and proper fix.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-...camber-plates/

 

Say all you want, but, sorry, Mechanically Engineering wise...NOT good engineering practice..!
You ALWAYS work from where the force comes from, NOT from where it ends up. Unless...you can build a good solid "brick wall" above the tower. And that piece of aluminum is NOT said "brick wall".
If I would have ever tried to pull an idea like this over on ANY of my bosses, I'da been flipping burgers somewhere for the last 35 or so years, not building AND testing aircraft and spacecraft and their related parts.

And sure, your second option is a good choice to stave off the effects of higher loads than the strut towers were originally designed for.
The first one...NOT so much. As noted above, my 2005 JCW is perfect testament to that..!

Mike

 

Are you sure the PO did not force the places on after damage was done?