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You've got preload! The OEM fixed length swaybar endlinks are the culprit.
Add your weight to the driver's seat and whammo, you have preload on both swaybars at any two cross-corners. No matter if you're at stock ride height or if you've lowered your car via lowering springs or coilovers - you've got preload. In fact, the OEM links are too long in the rear if you've lowered the car and the bar's effective rate is changed... In the front, they're too short!
The ability to neutralize the sway bar in your suspension system is a great advantage to baseline, balance, and refines your vehicle's handling characteristics.
The goal is zero preload - why? To allow the swaybar to work as it was intended... Control in the corners, flatter cornering, more stability, progressive loading.
We're talking about a whole new level of suspension performance... Period.
Not all endlinks are created equal... Everyone else's endlinks use heim joints. We use ball-stud links. Why use ball-stud links? Heim joints and high misalignment spherical bearings were considered, but do not offer the compliance, the dust seal, and are limited in their range of angular articulation. The ball links also offer a very low friction in the joint and has up to 50 degrees of articulation. This eliminates binding and allows for smooth load transitions. And, to top it off, they're strong as hell...
Which brings up the point - the OEM endlinks are weak. The welds break where the rod meets the rod-end. They're especially susceptible if you're running aftermarket swaybars - and even more so if you autocross or track! Like our other products, our endlinks are bulletproof...
We strongly recommend replacing the front and rear at the same time, in order to provide you with the ultimate in adjustability.
