View Poll Results: Your interest in potential brake upgrade types
Voters: 1016. You may not vote on this poll
Brake upgrade survey
#26
#27
Originally Posted by polmear
New rotors should always get new pads. The old pads, no matter how little they have worn, will take on the characteristics of the old rotors (i.e. tapered wear, grooving, coning, etc.) these 'bad' characteristics can be transferred to the new rotors, and trash your new rotors faster.
#28
#29
I have the Brembo GT kit as well. Painted red calipers with with the drilled, 2 piece rotors on the front and drilled rotors on the back. Man it stops nice.
Bought the car with them installed on it, along with a suspension kit. The Mini dealer put spacers on the fronts, for the stock wheels to fit.
Haven't driven a stock system in almost two years (and never owned an MCS with the stock system) so I really can't remember what the stock system feels like.
Bought the car with them installed on it, along with a suspension kit. The Mini dealer put spacers on the fronts, for the stock wheels to fit.
Haven't driven a stock system in almost two years (and never owned an MCS with the stock system) so I really can't remember what the stock system feels like.
#30
Slotted rotors will help marginal pads bite better - but at the expense of wear. (think HP+ or DS2500's at a track day - - HPS for auto x'ing - that type of thing)
It's debateable and I'm simplyfying - but mass = fade resistence and longer life when it comes to rotors - (the iron will cycle to a higher temp if there is less of it which eventually fatigues the iron more quickly) This is not an issue if you don't replace rotors due to cracking - AND - a curved or pillar vane rotor may cool a bit better than a straight vane rotor - and distribute heat more evenly.
Race pads can bite into anything and don't seem to need any help.
It's debateable and I'm simplyfying - but mass = fade resistence and longer life when it comes to rotors - (the iron will cycle to a higher temp if there is less of it which eventually fatigues the iron more quickly) This is not an issue if you don't replace rotors due to cracking - AND - a curved or pillar vane rotor may cool a bit better than a straight vane rotor - and distribute heat more evenly.
Race pads can bite into anything and don't seem to need any help.
#31
Poll Question
I would really like to upgrade my braking system. But before I can intellegently reply to the poll I have to confess that I am not up on all the pros & cons of the various rotor types listed. I see several references from people in earlier posts as to what they perceive as some pros & cons of certain rotors but they are just sharing their experience. I don't know their credentials and their opinion might not be shared by others.
What would really help me would be an primer (tutorial) explaining the pros & cons of each rotor type (ideally as it affects the entire braking system, including pad wear, rotor wear, etc.). Then maybe a chart showing side-by-side comparisons of each rotor type would really help (like the Tire Rack does for tires.)
Obviously cost-benefit is always an important factor. Naturally you want the best brakes you can afford without overkill (including on the budget). So how about the vendors in question come up with something objective to help us make an informed vote. After all, I'm guessing they would be interested in offering what would most likely sell best to the largest group of people. For example, I would consider myself an aggressive driver, with a few Auto-X's and track days per year as I'll bet many of us are. But I don't need to spend a fortune for what is beyond my needs...
So please show me, based upon my driving needs and budget what my best options are and then least I can vote to let you know what I want.
What would really help me would be an primer (tutorial) explaining the pros & cons of each rotor type (ideally as it affects the entire braking system, including pad wear, rotor wear, etc.). Then maybe a chart showing side-by-side comparisons of each rotor type would really help (like the Tire Rack does for tires.)
Obviously cost-benefit is always an important factor. Naturally you want the best brakes you can afford without overkill (including on the budget). So how about the vendors in question come up with something objective to help us make an informed vote. After all, I'm guessing they would be interested in offering what would most likely sell best to the largest group of people. For example, I would consider myself an aggressive driver, with a few Auto-X's and track days per year as I'll bet many of us are. But I don't need to spend a fortune for what is beyond my needs...
So please show me, based upon my driving needs and budget what my best options are and then least I can vote to let you know what I want.
#32
i have a bbk, purchased from one of the vendors on this site. i love these brakes. i also spend a lot of $$$ on pads and rotors. i just ordered my fourth or fifth set of front pads and new front rotors. you can't have it all! if you want a car that stops very well, there will be brake dust. if you want a car that will stop fast on a track, be prepared to spend good $$$ on pads and rotors. 4 DE's, four sets of front pads, one set of rear pads and a new set of front rotors. rear rotors are two events from being replaced. personally, i love making porsches nervous in braking zones. i can out-brake almost any street driven car, but it cost money and makes dust.......
#34
Front
Willwood 12.4 kit with radially vented rotors. Calipers are forged Dyna Pro, with all stainless components - no rubber to melt at the track. Two pads types; BP 20s for every day and Poly Bs for the track.
Rear
Powerslot slotted rotors. Porterfield R4-S pads, and Tyrolsport upgrade.
This combo is quite nice with the street pads and powerful enough with the track pads. The Porterfield pads were a great recommendation by a number of folks!
Willwood 12.4 kit with radially vented rotors. Calipers are forged Dyna Pro, with all stainless components - no rubber to melt at the track. Two pads types; BP 20s for every day and Poly Bs for the track.
Rear
Powerslot slotted rotors. Porterfield R4-S pads, and Tyrolsport upgrade.
This combo is quite nice with the street pads and powerful enough with the track pads. The Porterfield pads were a great recommendation by a number of folks!
#35
This is what I'm leaning toward as well, once my stock pieces need to be replaced. I don't need to worry about performance for track days or autocrossing (or showing off). I just want a simple upgrade over stock with less dust, if possible.
#40
Ireland BB conversion installed.
Yesterday I had Fireball Racing install a set of front and rear big brake conversions on my '03 MCS with hawk pads. They are not fully bedded in yet, but OMG what a difference already. The rotors are HUGE and fit nicely in my 17" Centerline RPM rims. They are a balanced design, using larger rotors front AND rear, unlike Brembo, and most others. That is a critical distinction. The car really digs in with less dive due to more balanced counter-torque.
The kit uncluded spacer brackets for the F&R stock calipers (which are very effective and don't merit replacement IMO) and SS brake lines. The rotors have alloy hats, and fronts are spiral vented. Both F&R have 3 slots each. I don't love the slots, as I see them as unnecessary in the aggressive street driving I do, but they are few, and can't hurt much. I look forward to fully broken in brakes that pull eyeballs out of sockets and out-stop every car on the road... tires permitting. (remember, we have anti-lock systems so ultimately, stopping distance is limited by tire adhesion, fade not included.)
The kit uncluded spacer brackets for the F&R stock calipers (which are very effective and don't merit replacement IMO) and SS brake lines. The rotors have alloy hats, and fronts are spiral vented. Both F&R have 3 slots each. I don't love the slots, as I see them as unnecessary in the aggressive street driving I do, but they are few, and can't hurt much. I look forward to fully broken in brakes that pull eyeballs out of sockets and out-stop every car on the road... tires permitting. (remember, we have anti-lock systems so ultimately, stopping distance is limited by tire adhesion, fade not included.)
#41
I upgraded mine a while ago from TCE...Wilwood rocks! I have the curved slotted and they work great! I like the "look" of drilled but imo they wear the pads down too fast and the rotor is weaker. I have the 13" up front and the upgraded rear too. For the first time, I feel safe on the Autostrada (Italy Highway)...NO fade and when some goober pulls out in front of me at 130kph+ (+ :p) which is the speed limit on the Autostrada, my MCS stops on a dime! I only have to worry about the guy behind me that doesn't have Wilwood
Thanks Todd (TCE)
Frodo
Thanks Todd (TCE)
Frodo
#42
Ireland 1 week later
Well, it's been a week and they are not fully broken in yet, but they are already better than stock, and when hot, FAR better. There are moments when they are up to temp and grabbing well and you just can't believe how easy it is to stop far shorter than before. It may be the pads that need heat to work, and if so I will be changing them out. I won't be tracking the car anytime soon, so I want ready friction when cold for city driving. We'll see in another week how they feel. They are better every day! Crazy stopping power, and improved confidence as a result.
#43
Well, it's been a week and they are not fully broken in yet, but they are already better than stock, and when hot, FAR better. There are moments when they are up to temp and grabbing well and you just can't believe how easy it is to stop far shorter than before. It may be the pads that need heat to work, and if so I will be changing them out.
I think you are correct in your assumptions about pads. You probably have a pad that needs more heat to react as you want it. Nice for extended use but not the best for morning comutes. Look for a low to medium temp, pad with modest Cf properties. This should keep your noise and dust down but be responsive to all but the hard core use needs.
#44
#47
#49
#50
I have the Brembo GT brake kit in the front on my MINI and their rotors on the rear. They are slotted, not drilled. They do cost more than most kits, but I think the quality is tops! When those puppies warm up, just show me the dime and I'll stop on it. Time after time, all day long. No fade. I repeat - no fade - ever! Incredibly short stopping distance!
Brembos are the best ! so, there ya go! :smile:
Brembos are the best ! so, there ya go! :smile:
Im looking to go with Brembo to i just need to afford it first.