r53 mini wheel offsets
#1
#5
Use this to enter OEM vs your purposed wheel-
http://www.willtheyfit.com
You will see how far the wheel is from the inner suspension and how much the wheel will poke out. Compared to OEM you can have a wheel that is about 13-15mm poke and it will be close to flush on the outer wheel arch if you mount a tire that is correct for the given wheel width.
A narrow wheel with a wide tire will make the wide tire pinched inward, tread shoulders will bulge wider than the width of the rim.
A narrow tire on a wide wheel will make the shoulders round and you can see the edges of the wide rim as the tire sidewall bends inward to the midline of the treads. This is the case with a stretched tire on a wide rim.
When buying aftermarket wheels you will rarely find a wheel offset that is similar to OEM. Wheel makers need to have their wheels fit many makes and models so they choose a generic offset so that it can more or less fit many cars.
In addition the hub bore of the wheel is usually larger like 73mm while the MINI hub bore is 56.1mm. To make the wheel fit onto the hub and bear weight you will usually need a set of centering rings that fit over the MINI hub and into the hole at the hub of the wheel. Many vendors will provide a set of rings when you purchase wheels to fit your car. Rings can be hard plastic or metal.
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madcanvis (04-05-2022)
#6
Offset range will depend on how wide the wheel is.
Use this to enter OEM vs your purposed wheel-
http://www.willtheyfit.com
You will see how far the wheel is from the inner suspension and how much the wheel will poke out. Compared to OEM you can have a wheel that is about 13-15mm poke and it will be close to flush on the outer wheel arch if you mount a tire that is correct for the given wheel width.
A narrow wheel with a wide tire will make the wide tire pinched inward, tread shoulders will bulge wider than the width of the rim.
A narrow tire on a wide wheel will make the shoulders round and you can see the edges of the wide rim as the tire sidewall bends inward to the midline of the treads. This is the case with a stretched tire on a wide rim.
When buying aftermarket wheels you will rarely find a wheel offset that is similar to OEM. Wheel makers need to have their wheels fit many makes and models so they choose a generic offset so that it can more or less fit many cars.
In addition the hub bore of the wheel is usually larger like 73mm while the MINI hub bore is 56.1mm. To make the wheel fit onto the hub and bear weight you will usually need a set of centering rings that fit over the MINI hub and into the hole at the hub of the wheel. Many vendors will provide a set of rings when you purchase wheels to fit your car. Rings can be hard plastic or metal.
Use this to enter OEM vs your purposed wheel-
http://www.willtheyfit.com
You will see how far the wheel is from the inner suspension and how much the wheel will poke out. Compared to OEM you can have a wheel that is about 13-15mm poke and it will be close to flush on the outer wheel arch if you mount a tire that is correct for the given wheel width.
A narrow wheel with a wide tire will make the wide tire pinched inward, tread shoulders will bulge wider than the width of the rim.
A narrow tire on a wide wheel will make the shoulders round and you can see the edges of the wide rim as the tire sidewall bends inward to the midline of the treads. This is the case with a stretched tire on a wide rim.
When buying aftermarket wheels you will rarely find a wheel offset that is similar to OEM. Wheel makers need to have their wheels fit many makes and models so they choose a generic offset so that it can more or less fit many cars.
In addition the hub bore of the wheel is usually larger like 73mm while the MINI hub bore is 56.1mm. To make the wheel fit onto the hub and bear weight you will usually need a set of centering rings that fit over the MINI hub and into the hole at the hub of the wheel. Many vendors will provide a set of rings when you purchase wheels to fit your car. Rings can be hard plastic or metal.
Basically I'm looking to bag my mini, and want to know what wheels I can make work before I get something new. I'm trying to keep the width/offset close to stock so I know it will fit for a fact. I'm familiar with the hubcentric rings, so I can handle centerbore, but I've always done static suspension so I never really had to worry about fitment too much, because they either fit or they didn't, whereas now I have to make sure it will fit at different levels.
Any other advice is appreciated.
#7
Ok, so let's say The stock wheel w/ tire is 205/45/16 and ET+38. If I keep the same tire size, and same wheel width and diameter, but with an offset of +24 but I add a lug adaptor/spacer of 15mm (for sake of simplicity), will that make the new set +39?
Basically I'm looking to bag my mini, and want to know what wheels I can make work before I get something new. I'm trying to keep the width/offset close to stock so I know it will fit for a fact. I'm familiar with the hubcentric rings, so I can handle centerbore, but I've always done static suspension so I never really had to worry about fitment too much, because they either fit or they didn't, whereas now I have to make sure it will fit at different levels.
Any other advice is appreciated.
Basically I'm looking to bag my mini, and want to know what wheels I can make work before I get something new. I'm trying to keep the width/offset close to stock so I know it will fit for a fact. I'm familiar with the hubcentric rings, so I can handle centerbore, but I've always done static suspension so I never really had to worry about fitment too much, because they either fit or they didn't, whereas now I have to make sure it will fit at different levels.
Any other advice is appreciated.
If your current wheel is 16x7" et38 and you use the same wheel with et 24 then the wheel would poke out 14mm more. Adding a wheel spacer would move the wheel further outward, resulting in another 15mm more poke for a total of 29mm.
This would be the same as using a 16x7" et9 wheel with no spacer.
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#8
No.
If your current wheel is 16x7" et38 and you use the same wheel with et 24 then the wheel would poke out 14mm more. Adding a wheel spacer would move the wheel further outward, resulting in another 15mm more poke for a total of 29mm.
This would be the same as using a 16x7" et9 wheel with no spacer.
If your current wheel is 16x7" et38 and you use the same wheel with et 24 then the wheel would poke out 14mm more. Adding a wheel spacer would move the wheel further outward, resulting in another 15mm more poke for a total of 29mm.
This would be the same as using a 16x7" et9 wheel with no spacer.
#9
Ok, so let's say The stock wheel w/ tire is 205/45/16 and ET+38. If I keep the same tire size, and same wheel width and diameter, but with an offset of +24 but I add a lug adaptor/spacer of 15mm (for sake of simplicity), will that make the new set +39?
Basically I'm looking to bag my mini, and want to know what wheels I can make work before I get something new. I'm trying to keep the width/offset close to stock so I know it will fit for a fact. I'm familiar with the hubcentric rings, so I can handle centerbore, but I've always done static suspension so I never really had to worry about fitment too much, because they either fit or they didn't, whereas now I have to make sure it will fit at different levels.
Any other advice is appreciated.
Basically I'm looking to bag my mini, and want to know what wheels I can make work before I get something new. I'm trying to keep the width/offset close to stock so I know it will fit for a fact. I'm familiar with the hubcentric rings, so I can handle centerbore, but I've always done static suspension so I never really had to worry about fitment too much, because they either fit or they didn't, whereas now I have to make sure it will fit at different levels.
Any other advice is appreciated.
IMO for a daily driver bags are risky business depending on where you live. One has to be very aware of height when adding passengers or you could have bag blow out....
#10
Once you go beyond 32/30 et with stock camber rubbing will be evident. Adding negative camber will be necessary utilizing adjustable rear control arms in conjunction with a tire size which provides some stretch to the sidewall, otherwise you'll be replacing a whole lot of fender liners and wheel well opening trim pieces every time you come across the slightest bump in the road.
IMO for a daily driver bags are risky business depending on where you live. One has to be very aware of height when adding passengers or you could have bag blow out....
IMO for a daily driver bags are risky business depending on where you live. One has to be very aware of height when adding passengers or you could have bag blow out....
#11
Compared to an OEM wheel (16x6.5" et48) this wheel would be 13.7mm farther away from inner suspension and poke out 26.4mm more.
#12
#15
Here's an excellent on-line tool for checking out various wheel/tire combinations: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp FWIW, we've run the KOSEI Racing 7x15 (et35) with 225/50x15 TOYO RA1's with no spacers and no problems.
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