HI,

I just got my front and rear brake pads replaced. Since the brake indicator did not activate, I told that independent mechanic to not replace the sensors. The rear was almost gone with only 15% left. The front had about 5000 miles to go. Two weeks later (this morning), the indicator with the car/lift came on and left. Seconds later the "Brake" light indicator lighted up. I thought, that mechanic sucks.

Can the brake light indicator be reset? Any idea what could be wrong? What is the correct path to fix this? I don't want to take it back to him. I may be able to do it myself.

Thanks and would greatly appreciate any help

 

More info on the car would be helpful too. Spend the $20 a sensor and replace them is the easiest solution.

 

The sensor is a one time use item....it is just a loop of wire that get cut when it get too close to the rotor, indicating you will need brakes soon.
The light will remain on till the sensor is replaced or bypassed....
Both it and your mechanic seem to be working as intented....

 

How can I trace which sensor went bad? So, every time I change the brake pads, I would have to change all the sensor, is that correct? I thought that if the sensor did not go off (brake pad metal touch the rotor), it does not have to be changed. Correct? Trying to learn more here. I am a newbie MCS owner. Is it hard to change out the sensor myself?

Thanks for helping..

 

You only need to change the sensor that has been worn (or bypass as previously mentioned). There are two sensors: one front, one rear. Each sensor runs <$25. There is a procedure documented on this forum somewhere that mentions how to reset it once the sensor is replace and the car doesn't immediately pick up on it (and also how to bypass the sensor).

 

If you access the OBC service menu, you may be able to figure out whether it was the rear sensor or the front sensor. I'd probably try to reset the indicator. If it will not reset, then you will need a new sensor.

My understanding is that it is possible to trip the sensor before it is cut completely. If you had one that had the countdown at 5,000 miles, that may have happened. Similar to the complete cut of the wire, the only solution is to replace the sensor.

 

Bypass doesn't work on the R56 tried it and failed. Unless you just changed your brakes you need to replace them and the sensor.

 

Thanks for everyone's replies. I tried to reset the brake light indicator. Here are my steps and results:

1. Insert key. I got the car/lift symbol. Shortly afterward, the "Brake" light indicator came on.
2. Pressed down both buttons. After the VIN light, the tachometer did a full check.
3. When the time came back, let go of the right button for 1 sec and pressed down again.
4. When I got the oil change indicator, I let go of both buttons.
5. I pressed down on the BC button until I got the rear brake indicator. I pressed the BC until I see the RESET. I pressed down again. I saw the timer started and the mls -30 came up.
6. I did the same for the front brake indicator and got mls 6000.
7. I started the ignition and the brake light indicator came up again.

I perform the steps twice and did not see any indication that the front & rear brakes were successfully reset. It seem to show me how much mileage was left on my front and back. The rear showed mls -30 which I assume is the lighted sensor.

During the reset process, I noticed that I did not reset the oil change sensor. Following the same steps, I was about to successfully reset the oil change back to 16000. So, I know that the reset steps are correct.

Any idea how to fix this or did I miss a step to reset the rear brake indicator? What is the next best step to resolve this issue?

I am guess that I will need to replace the sensor. If the brake light sensor goes off, there is no chance of saving the old sensor. The only way to turn off the sensor is to replace the rear sensor, correct? I have not done this before so I am not very comfortable with this situation.

Thanks so much... Definitely learning here.

 

Yeah, you'll need to replace the sensor. It's really easy. The front is worse as it's behind the wheel well and (at least for me) had to blindly find, disconnect, and reconnect the cable. Took me 5 minutes for the front, ~2 minutes for the rear (after jacking and rake pad replacement).

 

Thanks proximo, I will follow your advice. Hopefully, after I change out the cables for the front and back, I will be able to reset the sensors. Hopefully the light out.

I saw a youtube video on the pad & sensors.

After I change out both sensors, will the sensor pickup? I guess I will have to test by turning on the ignition. If the Brake indicator is on, I guess I have to do another reset.



Thanks.

 

I had to do the reset process you noted above but I only gave it 30 seconds as I was impatient.

 

If you don't want to use the sensor you can cut the end off and solder the wires together. I've had mine like that for over a year.

 

...or, as a cheap alternative, replace the sensor, but wire tie it to a suspension component so that it never touched the brake. It'll last forever. But you must remember to keep checking your brake pads on your own because the car will not remind you that it needs new ones if you choose this option.

 

hi i reset the brake light like three times and now it doesnt let me?
Must i wait until it let me?
What happen if the light goes one permanently, i must replace the sensor or take the mini to the service to put off the light or it just goes off if i replace the sensor?
Thanks friends

 

Hey,

Thanks to everyone with their great advice. I ordered the front and rear brake wear sensors from minimania.com. They cost about $27 each. I used their $5 subscription discount. If anyone knows of another online retailer with better price, please let all of us know.

I started with the rear and it was easy to remove and snap the connectors. Only difficulty was getting the hand in there to disconnect the old and snap the new one on. I went to reset and was successful in setting it back to 35000 miles before it goes off again. It is true, these sensor are 1 time only.

The front was easier to disconnect and connect. But I had to use long nose plier to snap off some pieces of the connect. It did not fit at first and finally got got it fit. It depends on what brand of brake pads. I was about to reset the sensor back to 35000 on the front. I tried to just reset with the old front and it will not reset, therefore, new sensor had to be installed. Totally worth DIY versus taking it to the shop.

Thanks and helpfully this helps someone else. Definitely doing the brake pads on my own next time (EBC GREEN).

 

I have a 2008 convertible (r52) that I just bought.... the rear brake sensor wiring was damaged (whomever replaced the pads ripped off the male connector) - so I have two wires exposed and a sensor light on forever - should I short the wires together to "trick" it into thinking the brakes are fine or totally separate them? I tried both and the light stayed on but I didnt do any type of "reset" so that might be the issue.... any thoughts?

 

Our everyday price is cheaper than that. People just need to realize to get a discount companies have to mark up the price to mark it back down.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/brake-pad-sensor.html
and we don't spam our customers either.

 

You should be able to just twist the wires together and turn the key on and wait 2min, the light will then go out. If it doesn't you'll have to replace the sensor, or it's the other sensor causing the light to be on.

 

Old post here but have to jump in... replace front brakes... sensor was Way back ordered... used the trick.. cut the wire and twisted together... back brakes were low but did not change them out.. also cut that sensor wire also and twisted together... tried the reset... back seems to be fine... amber lit... front symbol is red, did the reset several times... still red... little clock rotated but still stayed low on miles and RED.. wires are twisted together - should be tricked????? so, what am I doing wrong..

 

GEN1 or GEN2? process can be a lil different

but sounds like front still sees an open on the sensor so two things come to my mind:

1. Your 'twist' isn't tight. I soldered mine and covered in heat shrink tube.

2. In process of doing this twist you either damaged the wire farther up the line or loosened at the connection. Find the break . . .

I jumpered mine just a handful of weeks ago (GEN2), front and rear, and both ends reset wear counters to 35,000 thru the stalk, no problem-o.

let us know what you find....

 

So from what I've gathered reading this thread the brake sensor only has to be replaced if the light has come on?

 

My wife's mini (2010 R56) had the red brake light stay on in addition to the dinging sound and mini on a lift symbol.

I fixed the problem by cleaning out (not replacing) the brake wear sensors at driver side front wheel and passenger side rear wheel. Brake pads were fine (only 27,000 miles), then all I did was reset the brake inspection mileage counter thing using the BC stalk button.

 

there are two brake wear systems

One is a miles counter, similar to the oil change one, by monitoring certain engine parameters it guesses your brake wear. When my counter went off, I checked my pads, saw plenty of pad left so reset the counter, which can be done thru the OBC and the stalk button.

The other is the brake wear sensor. When the sensor trips the sensor has been "used" and must be replaced to resent this part of the system. The sensor trips by wearing down due to contact with the rotor until a wire loop in the sensor breaks creating an open circuit. So if you try to reset a brake warning and CAN'T, I'll bet you a donut one of your sensors has tripped.

 

Mine came on with with the service light.
Turns out the pads were so worn out, the disk basically ruined the sensor, so my shop resurfaced the discs so they don't cut through the sensor again. I had to pay for new pads + sensors.

 

I dunno what your shop told you

but the sensor works by having the disk face grind the sensor down until a wire is broken


resurfaced the discs so they don't cut through the sensor again

that's a new one on me . . .

new pads .. thicker ... keep the sensor off the rotor until things wear down again . . .