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We now offer special discounted pricing on brake combo kits with pads and rotors.
You get Centric brand rotors (same company that makes Stoptech rotors), and Hawk HPS pads. The kit prices are excellent. We have front-only as well as all-four-wheels kits. Available for most MINI models -- more kits are being added all the time.
I've had bad luck with pulsation issues with Centric rotors on (2) other cars, and no such issues with Brembo blanks on the same cars, everything else remaining the same (EBC Greenstuff pads in both cases). Of course this may just amount to highly unlikely coincidence, but I, for one, will not buy Centric rotors again.
Pulsation issues are usually caused by pad material transferring to the rotor. At least in theory, different brands of rotors should not have different amounts of pad transfer -- they're all made of cast iron. We've had no complaints from any of our customers.
In theory, I agree with you completely. I'm just saying that in practice, that hasn't been my expereince... FWIW, I changed over to Brembo blanks and haven't had a problem since.
^No, in either case...Acura and Subaru. Is there reason to believe it might be different for MINI?
I guess what I'm saying is, we sell these rotors for the MINI. I've sold LOTS of them. We've had no complaints -- not a single one -- of any kind. You've brought up your own experiences that have to do with other cars, not MINIs. While I believe you, I'm not sure it's relevant here on my "Vendor Talk" thread, which is about brakes for MINIs.
Being that you're a vendor, I understand your concern reguarding my negative experience, and it's relevance in this "Vendor-Talk" thread. HOWEVER, someone did ask how the rotors hold up over time. I shared my experience under the school of thought that a bad refrigerator is still a bad refrigerator, no matter who's house it's in. I still won't use Centric rotors again, unless someone can prove to me that they've made drastic improvments in the last 2 years, or that the situation would somehow be different on a MINI Cooper.
Even reading ellcapitans experience with the rotor problems he has had on his Acura and Subaru. I'm placing my order for my MINI! Does the brake kit come with the sensors?
FWIW, the Centric rotors I used, in both cases, did not look like the ones pictured above. They had black anti-corrosive coatings on the hats and edges. Maybe these indeed ARE different?
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The Ultimate Mister Magoo Car.
Last edited by ellcapitan; 08-05-2010 at 05:16 PM.
If your car or truck is making a high pitched squealing noise either when applying the brakes, or letting off of the brakes, it is time for a brake inspection. Most cars and trucks produced after 1972 came standard with front disc brakes. The squealing noise you are hearing is likely a warning tab on your front brake pads to let you know your brake pads are wearing out and should be replaced.
Welcome to the forum. BMW/MINI wear sensors don't work like this...
Probably a stale post, but I've burned through enough rotors over a couple of years of occasional track days (at least 2 fronts/year.) I am tired of paying bucks for something I know I'm going to chew up anyhow with Carbotech XP8s on 2009 S fronts and 2006 rears. They've been fine on and off the track. Would I buy them again? Sure.
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'06 RG/S MCS with a bunch of stuff...
Hi Mini Guys, what a polite exchange on warped rotors. Brutal use over far too many years on bikes, bicycles, fast cars and trucks has shown the following. It is usually stopping with hot rotors followed by sitting there with the brake on which insulates the area under the pads, as the rest of the disc rapidly cools, that leads to warping. Also uneven torque on wheel nuts or too high a torque will allow very hot discs to form to the unlevel clamp surface. So, as you come to a stop, let car roll a foot a time or 2. Even crap brakes try not to warp using this easy routine. Good luck
Hi Mini Guys, what a polite exchange on warped rotors. Brutal use over far too many years on bikes, bicycles, fast cars and trucks has shown the following. It is usually stopping with hot rotors followed by sitting there with the brake on which insulates the area under the pads, as the rest of the disc rapidly cools, that leads to warping. Also uneven torque on wheel nuts or too high a torque will allow very hot discs to form to the unlevel clamp surface. So, as you come to a stop, let car roll a foot a time or 2. Even crap brakes try not to warp using this easy routine. Good luck
I agree with the practice, but not the theory. Rotors almost never actually get warped per se; rather, they get out of true, due to thickness variation. This is caused when pad material is deposited onto the rotor unevenly and the rotor starts to wear at different rates in different spots, due to the inconsistent friction around the rotor surface. This condition is caused by a few things, one of which you mentioned--burning pad material onto a static rotor after a hard stop. Other normal causes are high performance (soft) pads, improper bed-in of new pads, and crappy rotors.
Red-Minx
