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So why is it that I understand it as this?.....I can't actually raise or lower the car unless I pop the bottom of the strut out of the front hub assembly/control arm and screw the bottom tube up or down. Is this correct?
Here's a pic of the coilovers out of the box.....are the struts in the all the way down config? And if this is correct and I wanted to change the ride height at a later date, do I have to pop the strut out to do this?
your fronts look like they are definitely bottomed out. note that there is just a tiny little gap between the bottom tube lock nut and the perch bottom lock nut. check that all these are tight.
the rears look like they are about as low as you can get if you keep the sway bar attach bracket stock. the gap between the rear bottom lock nut and the upper perch lock nut should be just a tiny bit wider than the width of the sway bar bracket. in this condition, the rear damper tube is not quite bottomed out into the lower attach tube. (on mine, i put a couple of washers underneath the rear damper to bottom it out.)
you don't have to pop the the coilovers out to adjust the ride height after they're on the car. with the weight off the wheels, loosen the lower most lock nut only. then just turn the whole upper body to thread it up or down. you can use the wrench on the uppermost perch nut to turn the whole damper body assembly - just be sure the perch lock nut is secure and stays secure so that you don't change the perch height. then just retighten the lower lock nut.
when i ordered last year, you couldn't get different spring rates from BC. but the swift springs are available in different rates as a direct swap.
Last edited by flyboy2160; 03-16-2008 at 10:20 PM.
Different spring rates ARE avaliable, by special request...If a request is made for a spring rate of more than +- 2k it is sugested that the coilovers be ordered with different valveing so that the set up is not over sprung or incorectly valved.
This is NO cost but does take some time.
your fronts look like they are definitely bottomed out. note that there is just a tiny little gap between the bottom tube lock nut and the perch bottom lock nut. check that all these are tight.
the rears look like they are about as low as you can get if you keep the sway bar attach bracket stock. the gap between the rear bottom lock nut and the upper perch lock nut should be just a tiny bit wider than the width of the sway bar bracket. in this condition, the rear damper tube is not quite bottomed out into the lower attach tube. (on mine, i put a couple of washers underneath the rear damper to bottom it out.)
you don't have to pop the the coilovers out to adjust the ride height after they're on the car. with the weight off the wheels, loosen the lower most lock nut only. then just turn the whole upper body to thread it up or down. you can use the wrench on the uppermost perch nut to turn the whole damper body assembly - just be sure the perch lock nut is secure and stays secure so that you don't change the perch height. then just retighten the lower lock nut.
when i ordered last year, you couldn't get different spring rates from BC. but the swift springs are available in different rates as a direct swap.
Good info and you understand the steps needed to adjust ride height
your fronts look like they are definitely bottomed out. note that there is just a tiny little gap between the bottom tube lock nut and the perch bottom lock nut. check that all these are tight.
the rears look like they are about as low as you can get if you keep the sway bar attach bracket stock. the gap between the rear bottom lock nut and the upper perch lock nut should be just a tiny bit wider than the width of the sway bar bracket. in this condition, the rear damper tube is not quite bottomed out into the lower attach tube. (on mine, i put a couple of washers underneath the rear damper to bottom it out.)
you don't have to pop the the coilovers out to adjust the ride height after they're on the car. with the weight off the wheels, loosen the lower most lock nut only. then just turn the whole upper body to thread it up or down. you can use the wrench on the uppermost perch nut to turn the whole damper body assembly - just be sure the perch lock nut is secure and stays secure so that you don't change the perch height. then just retighten the lower lock nut.
when i ordered last year, you couldn't get different spring rates from BC. but the swift springs are available in different rates as a direct swap.
Thanks for the info.....it isn't hard to pop them off but I really didn't want to have to do that.....
__________________ '03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
Ah geezzzz......so I adjust the coilovers to where I guesstimate I'll put them, throw the wheels back on and then bam! The tire (215/40 - on Kosei K1's) I run is rubbing the coilover lower tube, just at the top - below the lower locking nut. The wheel spins but has a little rubber squeak. Sheeeeit I says....
Looks like spacers are in my future. What do you say? About 5mm? 10mm? No problem in the back of course.. The stock struts have a flat side that faces the wheel.
__________________ '03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
Requiring spacers is pretty common. Just get a 5mm spacer with longer bolts [unless you have studs] and you'll be good to go. I have to run 5mm on my BC's even with et42 7" wide wheels. This means my backspace is 0.5" less than stock, ouch!
Is #8 on the front and #6 on the rear that minispeed specs out good for the street? i'm in northern indiana and the roads are rough! I'm currently on Koni sports and Hsport springs if anyone can compare the harshness between them and the BCs.
One of my hsport springs snapped yesterday and I'm looking to upgrade.
One of my hsport springs snapped yesterday and I'm looking to upgrade.
\
Wow that's the first time I've ever heard of a spring actually breaking.
I run my BC's with 7kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear and the ride comfort is closer to stock than it is Koni Yellows w/H-Sport springs. The Koni Yellows are painful no matter what springs you use!
That's what I thought. The mechanic who checked it out had no idea why, but said he sees it alot on GMs. He said ok to limp home to do repairs, but be careful. It also ripped out the ABS line so the dash is lit up like a christmas tree, and it crimped my stoptech SS brake line near shut.
This puts my car out of commission for the dragon more than likely since I may not be able to fix everything before then. Replacement parts are on the way and I have stock springs available. I have Hsports contacts and will be letting them know as soon as I can get it off and look at everything myself. if they send replacements, great! (i think i'd want the whole set replaced). If they don't, oh well. I wanted coilovers in the first place, but got a great deal on the koni/hsport set up.
At least it happened in a parking lot and not while I was ballin' down the dragon.
Thanks for the input on the ride. The koni's are painful!
My BCs with 6kg/6kg springs are as comfortable / more so than my Yellows + lowering springs. It really depends on the dampening setting of the BCs and Yellows, though. I'm running my BCs 10 from softest, while my Konis were 1/2 turn from firm (b/c adjusting the rears were a PITA).
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[ pics ] [ page ] 2006 HB/W MCS: 15% pulley, intake, full exhaust, 380cc injectors, RMW tune (201whp/191lbs tq), colder plugs, BC coilovers, 22mm rear sway, Alta PSRS bushings, rear control arms, R56 front brakes, Carbotech pads, TSW engine mount, Helix short shift, Outmotoring gauge faces, whizzeels, blah blah blah
Thanks. I had my yellows half a turn from firm in the rear too. I don't remember where the fronts have ended up. I've emailed mini speed to see if there are different spring combos they sell other that 8/8 and 8/6. I may upgrade to swifts later on. Since it's primarily a daily driver I want it to be somewhat bearable, especially on these roads, but I guess I can do that with the adjustments.
How low will they go? I want more drop than the hsports especially in the front.
Ah, I remember that now. Last night was a long night of looking at coilovers and lowered minis again since I quit looking because I thought I was done with the suspension. Looks like these will be able to go low enough! As soon as I decide a spring rate I'm probably going to order.
This week I'll be putting stock springs back on the rear with the konis, but I'm going to leave the Hsport and Konis on the front for a while. Don't feel like taking those apart until I know what I'm going to do. Should be a interesting ride.
Just some info for anybody that is contemplating BC's.....
I just installed mine and with running a 17 x 7.5 rim with an et+45 and 215/40 tire, it rubs slightly right about the lower locking nut. (This is the front's I'm speaking of) I have about a 1/2" of drop left in it so it might get close to the spring, we'll see. These are the barrel shaped springs, not the 2.5" i.d. ones. I also have the same rim with an et +35 with 225/45's and they don't rub at all since they are an extra .4" further out.
I need to call the supplier to get their opinion on spacer requirement. A 3mm spacer doesn't require longer bolts, but 5mm does....
No issues with the rears...
The crummy part is that having to use spacers will screw up the "dropped look" somewhat...
__________________ '03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
Spacers ...Rims ...Tires
OK I have the BC Coliovers (and I am also one of the West Coast distributors)
I have many different combinations
For street I run ASA ET 42 wheels and 215/45 x 17 tires
I do have a 2 mm spacer on the front for my BBK ...NOT the springs !
I do also run a 8mm spacer on the rear for looks not for any interferance issues.
Auto X I have enkie et 45 wheels and 225/ 40 x 17 tires
a 10mm spacer on the front is not enough, it just kisses the lower spring nuts and the tire so I run a 15 mm spacer but the arch trim is now slightly "modded (about 1/4 off)
On the rear with the et45 and 225 s I run a 5mm spacer as things get real close on the trailing arm ...the 5 mmspacer is an option as my alignement has a lot of rear camber ant the arches AND fenderwell is "trimmed)
Happy to help with questions here ... in PM ... or even call
Yes I saw your post......just wanted to share that info since I don't remember anyone posting anything about clearance issues..
But I still want to touch base with the vendor just to be on the safe side, get their opinion on spacer thickness...
If you plan on keeping your current wheel/tire combo for a while then I would suggest a good quality 5mm spacer such as the ones available from H&R or Eibach. These fit on the mini hub snug with no movement. Most of the cheaper 3mm generic 4x100 spacers fit very loose and are a huge pita when it comes to wheel removal and installation.
If you dont have them already, you may consider replacing the stock bolts with some 50mm wheel studs as they make wheel removing/installation a breeze in comparison.
I'll be getting some spacers and studs down the road, as my 16x7.5 Koseis with... 42 offset? are very, VERY close to rubbing on the coilovers up front. The tires (225/45) are just a hair's width from touching the locking rings of the BCs.
I was planning on getting spacers anyways with the 15x8 wheels.. for the rears.
(I'm not sure on the offset, can't remember. Either 35 or 42? Whatever makes sense for a 7.5" width wheel)
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[ pics ] [ page ] 2006 HB/W MCS: 15% pulley, intake, full exhaust, 380cc injectors, RMW tune (201whp/191lbs tq), colder plugs, BC coilovers, 22mm rear sway, Alta PSRS bushings, rear control arms, R56 front brakes, Carbotech pads, TSW engine mount, Helix short shift, Outmotoring gauge faces, whizzeels, blah blah blah
'03 DS/W MCS......Alta 15%, 2% Crank, Alta CAI, Kingsborne Wires, Denso Plugs, Magnaflow, BC Coilovers, Webb Motorsport 22mm Rear Sway, M7 STB, Ultrik Upper & Lower adj control arms, Alta Frt & Rear End links, Engine damper, Quad lamp light bar, Kosei K1 Racing 17 x 7.5's or 15 x 7.5 949Racing rims, Wilwood 11.75" Dynapro BBK, 215/40 General UHP or 225/45/15 track tires, Moss Mini Angel Eyes, Sneed Speed cooling ducts. Window Tint. DSOC #172
Mods: I have some. They make me :-) I am now broke :-(
Wow that's the first time I've ever heard of a spring actually breaking.
