I'm dropping the sub-frame...

[meb]

I've read the manual. Any information that the manual overlooks that might be helpfull? I know 'my' subframe is not centered; I've had an alignment at three different shops and all three have adjusted the camber in the same way. The frame is biased to the left side.

Can I perform this work while the front end is on jack stands?

The right side control arm bushing as failed. I'm replacing both with powerflex, and, I'm replacing the control arm ball joint as well.

[onasled]

Michael. That's just the way the Mini is. I don't see you moving the subframe at all unless you are drilling new holes. I don't believe it's adjustable that way.

Oh, and dump the H-sports and just get a good hiem joint arm

[kenchan]

^^ +1 i don't think you can bias the rear subframe left/right.

[Mineon]

It sounds like he is talking about the front subframe, not the rear, and according to the GRM article on Mini suspension, you can change the left/right camber settings by loosening the front subframe and shifting it from side to side.

-Keith

[BLIZZ]

Originally Posted by meb

Can I perform this work while the front end is on jack stands?

Michael
If you are using basic hand tools, your best bet is to support the car @ the front {or all four} jack points and let the subframe hang. Loosen the bolts that attach the subframe to the unibody, but don't remove completely. With a long pry bar between the unibody & the subframe apply pressure in the proper direction. If the subrame doesn't want to move with just a pry bar, you can use a come-along or hyraulic jack. The movement is in the holes of the subframe that the attaching bolts go through.
Good luck.

P.S. If you have trouble most good alignment shops can shift the subframe for you.

[meb]

Okay, thank you all!!!

I also spoke with Onasled (Greg) and jlm (John). John has performed this job four times...wow.

I'll take pictures, but seriously, I'll need some advise about loading these...Onasled or snid perhaps

I'll be under the car, again, next weekend. I promised I would not utter the word 'car' during mother's day weekend. Gotta go find another ride for a while...

K-huevo was kind enough to let me borrow his BMW bushing removal tool...hope that was okay to print here. I'm grateful!

[UKSUV]

You can adjust the front and rear frames by almost 1/8 of an inch either way. At least I could when I was putting everything back together.

[meb]

...okay, an 1/8" to the right side will help align things.

[kenchan]

Originally Posted by Mineon

It sounds like he is talking about the front subframe, not the rear, and according to the GRM article on Mini suspension, you can change the left/right camber settings by loosening the front subframe and shifting it from side to side.

-Keith

oh. don't I feel stupid.


(no i don't)

[002]

The front is easy to do on just front stands and the frame will balance pefectly on a floor jack. Just put the car up as high up as possible. Remove the exhaust heat shield to make it easier to feed the power steering reservoir down.

I'm not sure how much adjustment you can get because where the front two bolts go there is a recess in the frame that fits snuggly to the body. It's similar to how a lug fits into a wheel.

Excuse those awfull sentences, I just don't have the patience to type my thoughts anymore.

The hardest part of this job is getting the bumper on again. Don't swet it

[kenchan]

^ I thought you were an international member.

[meb]

...I can no longer drive the car. The bushing is completely torn apart. So, in the interest of time, mine, I'm making an appoinmtent with Mini of Westchester to replace the stock bushings with the Powerflex bushing, and replace outer tie rods, and all four ball joints and the steering rack bushing (powerflex too). I can only borrow a car for so long. There goes another $1,000 bill...hopefully I'll have enough for a coffee and an Excendrin when finished .

The bushing explains why I've had so much trouble getting the car set up. I'm hoping too, that the vibration many of us have complained about is somehow tethered to the bushing...we'll see. But, this bushing cost me $350.00 in alignments.

I was sort of looking forward to the process of getting to know the Mini a bit better.

[snid]

Michael, hope the car's back together soon, and no suprprises pop up.

If last weekend was how your car moves when it's not set up right...

[meb]

Jasen,

A couple of times I thought I was over working the tires; I completely missed the second apex once. There is so much noise when travleing at those speeds, as you know, it's hard to hear anything as descrete as a broken bushing. I heard and felt it alot on the way home...but I've been complaining about something not right for a few weeks.

I appreciate the compliment.

michael

[jlm]

http://www.mini2.com/forum/wheels-ty...light=subframe

[meb]

jlm,

Those are great photos! Somehow makes the job look easier. You wrote, "bump, for those considering the M7 control arm." I took this to mean the new bushings felt great?

Half of me wants to perform the work and th other half does not...I was given a final quote today by BMW - 4hours or so. So, if it costs me $500.00 to have all those items replaced I'm, happy; again, all four ball joints, Powerflex steering rack bushing, outer tie rod and of course, the control arm bushings. Ball joints are extra, I have everything else. I just order the rear trailing arm bushing...why wouldn't I?

jlm - thank you very much for spending time with me on the phone. K-huevo reminded me that you've done this work...four times you said?

Onasled, thank you for talking with me too, as always.

K-huevo, for offering to let another human borrow your tools, thanks. I know it's a tool, but I couldn't bring myself to actually write that...use your imagination...

To all who tried to help here, thanks!

God, sounds like I just accepted an Grammy I'll go sit down now.

The work is scheduled for next Tuesday. In a week I should be a happier person


Michael

[jlm]

at the time. of the bump there was some general interest in changing to the M7 control arm, so I bumped the post so they could see what was involved doing the swap

[002]

Meb,
I figured you'd have all that stuff done by now. I have the rear control arms and trailing arm inserts left to complete my set up. I'm aiming to the inserts this weekend. I ended up making one change at a time to positively ID the cause of the crazy handling. It still feels like someone is steering the rear wheels and I can't hold a line driving on the freeway. I think the inserts will do it.

As for the tool, that sounds like a really kind person.

Kenchan,

[meb]

002

I thought I would be done by now too...but it always takes longer. The actual set-ups/dialing-in take forever.

When my car is well, the only time I get nervous is when threshold braking; the back beomes a little squirely. So, I hope the rear bushings work too. As I wrote somewhere, Ireland Engineering is making inserts for me becasue the 05 and newer cars have a much larger rear trailing arm bushing. But, I cannot wait any longer. So I'm ordering the P-Flex bushing today. It's another PITA, but not like the front sub-frame...well...that's a big assumption since I've only read the manual

I also need to lower the back end a hair and raise the front end a hair. Hopefully this will help too. Jeff Ireland, in a conversation with me, said the car definately exhibits rear steer characterisitcs under some conditions and the bushing will remedy this. I also have springs that are 55lb/in heavier in the rear; great for rotation and at some level should help to keep things planted while under braking - in a stright line. But as soon as I turn the wheel while braking...yikes!