Suspension Suspension: Stock vs. FSD vs. B4 ??
#51
I've put about 90 miles on Jasper since installing new FSDs.
I cannot offer comparisons to Bilsteins or any other struts. Sorry folks.
But I can say it's a world of difference compared to the OE struts with over 150k miles!
No longer have the involuntary butt-clench when going over bumps. And body roll, squat and dive is greatly reduced. He rides like a new car!
I cannot offer comparisons to Bilsteins or any other struts. Sorry folks.
But I can say it's a world of difference compared to the OE struts with over 150k miles!
No longer have the involuntary butt-clench when going over bumps. And body roll, squat and dive is greatly reduced. He rides like a new car!
#53
Just another vote for the FSDs. Our R52S has been wearing them for maybe 40,000 miles or so. They really do a nice job of exactly what they claim to do. They remove a lot of the high rate harshness over bumps and other road irregularities, but have a nice smooth but stiff response to slow body motions. Good stuff.
#54
Just another vote for the FSDs. Our R52S has been wearing them for maybe 40,000 miles or so. They really do a nice job of exactly what they claim to do. They remove a lot of the high rate harshness over bumps and other road irregularities, but have a nice smooth but stiff response to slow body motions. Good stuff.
#55
#56
Haha no not at all. I was about to buy the B4s and then someone told me from one of the parts dealers that the Koni FSDs will be on sale this coming spring so I am patiently waiting until then. What are you running?
#57
Still stock. Eventually I think I'd either like to lower the car about 1/2" or just go with some FSD's. My ride is extremely "rolly", meaning it pitches a lot in the corners. I think my springs must be bad or something as my dad's R50 w/ 180k miles and original suspension is way tighter than my R53 w/ 80k in the corners.
#58
Still stock. Eventually I think I'd either like to lower the car about 1/2" or just go with some FSD's. My ride is extremely "rolly", meaning it pitches a lot in the corners. I think my springs must be bad or something as my dad's R50 w/ 180k miles and original suspension is way tighter than my R53 w/ 80k in the corners.
#59
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Still stock. Eventually I think I'd either like to lower the car about 1/2" or just go with some FSD's. My ride is extremely "rolly", meaning it pitches a lot in the corners. I think my springs must be bad or something as my dad's R50 w/ 180k miles and original suspension is way tighter than my R53 w/ 80k in the corners.
I would think that the springs are ok if the ride height has not changed (you talk about lowering it, hence, the assumption). And, if there is not some banging, the your sway bar bushings are likely still ok. A broken swaybar endlink could do that also, as the swaybars controls body roll. That is an easy check to make with the car up in the air. That pretty much leaves shot shocks...which would be my guess and where I would start for replacing things.
Note, if you get the FSD you can't (shouldn't) use them with lowering springs. But if you do get them, let us know what you think of them.
#60
This is curious. Does it pitch forward when you hit the brakes really hard?
I would think that the springs are ok if the ride height has not changed (you talk about lowering it, hence, the assumption). And, if there is not some banging, the your sway bar bushings are likely still ok. A broken swaybar endlink could do that also, as the swaybars controls body roll. That is an easy check to make with the car up in the air. That pretty much leaves shot shocks...which would be my guess and where I would start for replacing things.
Note, if you get the FSD you can't (shouldn't) use them with lowering springs. But if you do get them, let us know what you think of them.
I would think that the springs are ok if the ride height has not changed (you talk about lowering it, hence, the assumption). And, if there is not some banging, the your sway bar bushings are likely still ok. A broken swaybar endlink could do that also, as the swaybars controls body roll. That is an easy check to make with the car up in the air. That pretty much leaves shot shocks...which would be my guess and where I would start for replacing things.
Note, if you get the FSD you can't (shouldn't) use them with lowering springs. But if you do get them, let us know what you think of them.
#62
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I think my car may actually be a little lower than stock, just don't have another R53 to compare it to. I think it's a bit lower than our R50. I've had it up in the air a few times recently and haven't noticed any damage to any front suspension components. I wasn't really looking, but I think I'd notice a broken endlink. I will check to see if my shocks are leaking next time I have it on the lift. I know I couldn't lower it with FSD's, just was considering my options. Thanks for the tips!
#64
Koni FSD are on sale now at this vendor:
http://www.motoringwerks.com/p-3674-...sd-shocks.aspx
Maybe the other vendors sales are kicking in as well. They all worked so hard helping everyone out.
I am also struggling to justify paying twice what the B4 (Touring) setup costs for FSD.
http://www.motoringwerks.com/p-3674-...sd-shocks.aspx
Maybe the other vendors sales are kicking in as well. They all worked so hard helping everyone out.
I am also struggling to justify paying twice what the B4 (Touring) setup costs for FSD.
#65
Koni FSD are on sale now at this vendor:
http://www.motoringwerks.com/p-3674-...sd-shocks.aspx
Maybe the other vendors sales are kicking in as well. They all worked so hard helping everyone out.
I am also struggling to justify paying twice what the B4 (Touring) setup costs for FSD.
http://www.motoringwerks.com/p-3674-...sd-shocks.aspx
Maybe the other vendors sales are kicking in as well. They all worked so hard helping everyone out.
I am also struggling to justify paying twice what the B4 (Touring) setup costs for FSD.
#66
#68
#69
One thing to look for when buying KONI FSD for the Gen 1 Mini's is that the Perch are not solid tach-weld that wii comes off during shipment and they don't ship the schematic/drawing as references. I had to call Koni Northamerica for it, again still haven't solve the clucking issue whenever I run over small bump because I received the Perch off the Strut, I am not convince Koni FSD is the best route for normal driving...my only opinion!!!
#70
One thing to look for when buying KONI FSD for the Gen 1 Mini's is that the Perch are not solid tach-weld that wii comes off during shipment and they don't ship the schematic/drawing as references. I had to call Koni Northamerica for it, again still haven't solve the clucking issue whenever I run over small bump because I received the Perch off the Strut, I am not convince Koni FSD is the best route for normal driving...my only opinion!!!
#71
While I am waiting for the sale, I am building my shopping list.
Is it common practice to replace the front mounts during replacement of the struts?
I really do not want to take my struts apart more than once!
I have never done this before and want to do replace all of the probable bad bits but not anything unnecessary.
Mounts, bump stops etc... What is likely shot?
Thanks!
Is it common practice to replace the front mounts during replacement of the struts?
I really do not want to take my struts apart more than once!
I have never done this before and want to do replace all of the probable bad bits but not anything unnecessary.
Mounts, bump stops etc... What is likely shot?
Thanks!
#72
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
While I am waiting for the sale, I am building my shopping list.
Is it common practice to replace the front mounts during replacement of the struts?
I really do not want to take my struts apart more than once!
I have never done this before and want to do replace all of the probable bad bits but not anything unnecessary.
Mounts, bump stops etc... What is likely shot?
Thanks!
Is it common practice to replace the front mounts during replacement of the struts?
I really do not want to take my struts apart more than once!
I have never done this before and want to do replace all of the probable bad bits but not anything unnecessary.
Mounts, bump stops etc... What is likely shot?
Thanks!
You say "front mounts"...what part are you referring to? While we have an R50, it has been really good and trouble free. So I have not had dig into its pieces and parts and have no familiarity with it.
JIM_GRAHAM: your signature says that you have a JCW. A suggestion for you (as I presume you, maybe, drive a bit on the spirited side...) - I would add a set of the IE fixed camber plates. Once you drive it with those, you will wonder why MINI doesn't build the car with them...
#73
Actually, this is something that I am interested in knowing too...
You say "front mounts"...what part are you referring to? While we have an R50, it has been really good and trouble free. So I have not had dig into its pieces and parts and have no familiarity with it.
JIM_GRAHAM: your signature says that you have a JCW. A suggestion for you (as I presume you, maybe, drive a bit on the spirited side...) - I would add a set of the IE fixed camber plates. Once you drive it with those, you will wonder why MINI doesn't build the car with them...
You say "front mounts"...what part are you referring to? While we have an R50, it has been really good and trouble free. So I have not had dig into its pieces and parts and have no familiarity with it.
JIM_GRAHAM: your signature says that you have a JCW. A suggestion for you (as I presume you, maybe, drive a bit on the spirited side...) - I would add a set of the IE fixed camber plates. Once you drive it with those, you will wonder why MINI doesn't build the car with them...
I was referring to the top of the strut with the three bolts that are part of the "mushrooming" issue.
The IE fixed plates you suggested would be their replacements. It would be about $120 upgrade over Lemforder OEM mounts. Is the driving experience much better?