Suspension NM lowering springs = good stuff
#76
Your car look pretty sharp!
Could you take a picture of the space between the tire to the shock? My CMS will arrive next month and I plan on getting the lower springs and same set of wheels, those are V710? but with 235/40/19 tires, so wondering if there are any room left for wider tires
how much does each wheel weight?
Tks
Could you take a picture of the space between the tire to the shock? My CMS will arrive next month and I plan on getting the lower springs and same set of wheels, those are V710? but with 235/40/19 tires, so wondering if there are any room left for wider tires
how much does each wheel weight?
Tks
As for wider tires, here is my thought: The tires I am using are Michelin PSS. The side profile of this tire seems more rounder, if you could understand from my photo, or maybe another photo I can take later on can show you this. Since the side wide is not straight up, if you are to use Michelin PSS too, I am 100% confident that 235s will not rub since it is only 5mm more on each side. I wanted to go 235s so that I can get that straight side wall look on the tires, but my experience tells me to fit tires according to the thickness of the rim, which is 8.5". Perhaps those who have experience can share too whether they feel that when you use a wider tire than needed and you travel fast (>180kmh), the tires feel wobbly. This may just be a simple tire issue, and not related to the wider tires And like I said, perhaps other tires you flat side walls may make a difference compared to the Michelins I'm using.
The rims I am using are customized forged. I did not check the weight though.
Cheers
#77
Took my All4S in to the dealer for an alignment check. Seems everything was mostly OK except for the rear camber. They maxed out the rear camber adjustment trying to get it into spec, but still the camber is very negative. They recommended looking for some aftermarket lower control arms to allow for more camber adjustments.
#79
I finally installed my NM springs. It took me 2h30 and it is really easy to do. I used this how to: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ll-how-to.html
#80
#82
I'm guessing you meant 245/40/19? Rubbing in the front or rear? MotoGreg seemed to fit it okay. Wonder what the deal is.
#83
What an amazing difference in handling just a set of NM coils can make. It's almost as good as my NM lowered R55. A rear swaybar, a strut bar, and rear arms and he'll probably be better than my ole R55. great mod!
less than 600 miles... lowered it today
NM springs
less than 600 miles... lowered it today
NM springs
Last edited by JohnJohn; 07-02-2012 at 05:29 PM.
#84
What are your thoughts on a front sway bar? Is the OEM sufficient with a strut bar? You never hear much about people upgrading their front sway bars.
#85
I've never changed out the front bar. If I was going lower I would change the front sway bar link to an adjustable set. The key to getting the most of your sway bar is the stiffness/thickness of the bar and keeping the connection point level.
As for a strut bar. Some say since the R53 they are useless. However I noticed a difference in my R55 in hard diving turns. I'll be adding one to my R60. Probably NM. However Jerry said they are still developing the mount for that. Which means probably Fall. :(
Last edited by JohnJohn; 07-02-2012 at 07:45 PM.
#86
I talked with Jerry at NM a few days ago. End of this month(July).
I've never changed out the front bar. If I was going lower I would change the front sway bar link to an adjustable set. The key getting to most of your sway bar is the stiffness/thickness of the bar and keeping the connection point level.
As for a strut bar. Some say since the R53 they are useless. However I noticed a difference in my R55 in hard diving turns. I'll be adding one to my R60. Probably NM. However Jerry said they are still developing the mount for that. Which means probably Fall. :(
I've never changed out the front bar. If I was going lower I would change the front sway bar link to an adjustable set. The key getting to most of your sway bar is the stiffness/thickness of the bar and keeping the connection point level.
As for a strut bar. Some say since the R53 they are useless. However I noticed a difference in my R55 in hard diving turns. I'll be adding one to my R60. Probably NM. However Jerry said they are still developing the mount for that. Which means probably Fall. :(
#87
nope my old Clubman arms are the stock ones I removed. I just measured them to reference them to the stock R60 length. So I could order some that would fit. I ordered the SPC set I referenced in the LCA thread. I like those because they aren't using any welds.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150779687439...84.m1439.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150779687439...84.m1439.l2649
#88
20+ yr dubber myself.
I have my NM springs in the garage, by CM only has 130mi on it. LOL
I figure I gotta wait till like 500 or so.. just so I can remember what stock was even like at some point
#89
<sorry thread...back to discussing NM Springs>
#90
nope my old Clubman arms are the stock ones I removed. I just measured them to reference them to the stock R60 length. So I could order some that would fit. I ordered the SPC set I referenced in the LCA thread. I like those because they aren't using any welds.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150779687439...84.m1439.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150779687439...84.m1439.l2649
#91
hey, does anyone notice their ride being WAY HARSH with the NMs?
Ive had the NM's on for a couple months now, and while the handling is MUCH improved, the ride is just awful. I know part of this is due to the run flats, but it's constantly bottoming out the supension (no rubbing) here in crappy bumpy LA freeways.
I have the bump stops cut, but I swear even the smallest bump in the road feels like it's goign to break my back. If I have passengers, especially in the rear, it's almost always bottoming out or riding harsh enough to cause the rear passenger to bounce in their seat.
Is this normal? I checked my tire pressure and it was at 30 psi, EXTREMELY rough, but then I put it up to about 38 psi and its a bit smoother but still bottoms out almost always.
Ive had the NM's on for a couple months now, and while the handling is MUCH improved, the ride is just awful. I know part of this is due to the run flats, but it's constantly bottoming out the supension (no rubbing) here in crappy bumpy LA freeways.
I have the bump stops cut, but I swear even the smallest bump in the road feels like it's goign to break my back. If I have passengers, especially in the rear, it's almost always bottoming out or riding harsh enough to cause the rear passenger to bounce in their seat.
Is this normal? I checked my tire pressure and it was at 30 psi, EXTREMELY rough, but then I put it up to about 38 psi and its a bit smoother but still bottoms out almost always.
#92
I don't think the +35 wheels have anything to do with it, but you never know.
#93
hey, does anyone notice their ride being WAY HARSH with the NMs?
Ive had the NM's on for a couple months now, and while the handling is MUCH improved, the ride is just awful. I know part of this is due to the run flats, but it's constantly bottoming out the supension (no rubbing) here in crappy bumpy LA freeways.
I have the bump stops cut, but I swear even the smallest bump in the road feels like it's goign to break my back. If I have passengers, especially in the rear, it's almost always bottoming out or riding harsh enough to cause the rear passenger to bounce in their seat.
Is this normal? I checked my tire pressure and it was at 30 psi, EXTREMELY rough, but then I put it up to about 38 psi and its a bit smoother but still bottoms out almost always.
Ive had the NM's on for a couple months now, and while the handling is MUCH improved, the ride is just awful. I know part of this is due to the run flats, but it's constantly bottoming out the supension (no rubbing) here in crappy bumpy LA freeways.
I have the bump stops cut, but I swear even the smallest bump in the road feels like it's goign to break my back. If I have passengers, especially in the rear, it's almost always bottoming out or riding harsh enough to cause the rear passenger to bounce in their seat.
Is this normal? I checked my tire pressure and it was at 30 psi, EXTREMELY rough, but then I put it up to about 38 psi and its a bit smoother but still bottoms out almost always.
#96
I just found this thread. I mainly just look in the wheel section and I don't think I've been in the suspension forum since before we got our car.
frstrtdmac, I don't understand that statement. That offset pushes the wheels outward a bit too much, so the outer edge of the rear tire contacts the inner edge of the black plastic fender arch. Here is what Silver Arrow posted earlier in this thread, and he's correct...
I had also posted the same thing in the wheel section in the past. I said that +35 was good for an 8" wide wheel, and that +42 was good for an 8.5" wheel. I think +40 is the limit on an 8.5" wheel on a lowered R60, and +45 is optimum.
If you adjust your negative camber (with a different LCA) to a setting that isn't as negative, then it will rub worse. On the plus side, after a couple thousand miles it should be fine, once the tire grinds off the plastic lip. Or, you can just take a dremel or something and trim the inside of the plastic lip. I've had too many lowered cars to remember, and if a tire ever rubs something metal then I make changes, but if it's just rubbing a plastic fender liner, or plastic wheel arch or something, then I just let it clearance itself and don't worry about it.
I don't think the +35 wheels have anything to do with it, but you never know.
In my opinion, 8.5 +45 is the maximum offset you can have, +35 is a strict no.
If you adjust your negative camber (with a different LCA) to a setting that isn't as negative, then it will rub worse. On the plus side, after a couple thousand miles it should be fine, once the tire grinds off the plastic lip. Or, you can just take a dremel or something and trim the inside of the plastic lip. I've had too many lowered cars to remember, and if a tire ever rubs something metal then I make changes, but if it's just rubbing a plastic fender liner, or plastic wheel arch or something, then I just let it clearance itself and don't worry about it.
Last edited by MotoGreg; 07-03-2012 at 09:46 PM.
#97
frstrtdmac, I don't understand that statement. That offset pushes the wheels outward a bit too much, so the outer edge of the rear tire contacts the inner edge of the black plastic fender arch. Here is what Silver Arrow posted earlier in this thread, and he's correct...
I had also posted the same thing in the wheel section in the past. I said that +35 was good for an 8" wide wheel, and that +42 was good for an 8.5" wheel. I think +40 is the limit on an 8.5" wheel on a lowered R60, and +45 is optimum.
If you adjust your negative camber (with a different LCA) to a setting that isn't as negative, then it will rub worse. On the plus side, after a couple thousand miles it should be fine, once the tire grinds off the plastic lip. Or, you can just take a dremel or something and trim the inside of the plastic lip. I've had too many lowered cars to remember, and if a tire ever rubs something metal then I make changes, but if it's just rubbing a plastic fender liner, or plastic wheel arch or something, then I just let it clearance itself and don't worry about it.
I am leaning more and more towards some coil overs, perhaps KWs, so that I can adjust the drop to avoid too much rubbing. (And it would spare me the burden of having to replace the struts further down the line.) The cost of the NM springs plus some sporty struts like the Koni Yellows is not too far off from the cost of the KWs V.3.
#98
Hujan, you'll be fine with your setup, it's only 2mm more outward than mine.
The NM springs don't drop it that much, I can't see spending a lot of money on something else only to lower it even less than the NM springs do. Aftermarket coilovers are great if you want to go super low, but for just a mild 1.5" drop you can't beat the NM springs, they're the best bang for the buck modification you can make to the R60.
My wife is a 50 year old woman who has never driven a lowered car in her life. She is the last person you'd expect to have lowering springs on her car. Believe me, if I went and did something to her brand new pride and joy that caused it to make noises, or do something funny, she would of had me put it back to the way it was immediately. She wanted nothing to do with lowering it, but now that she keeps getting compliments from people on how much better it looks she loves it.
Your +40 is only 2mm more outward than my +42. We are pushing the limit, and are right on the edge. frstrtdmac went 5mm past the limit so he needs to make room by trimming his plastic arch 5mm. You'll be fine. And like I said before, the offer is open to come by and take a drive in our car if you'd like to see for yourself how it is.
so that I can adjust the drop to avoid too much rubbing
My wife is a 50 year old woman who has never driven a lowered car in her life. She is the last person you'd expect to have lowering springs on her car. Believe me, if I went and did something to her brand new pride and joy that caused it to make noises, or do something funny, she would of had me put it back to the way it was immediately. She wanted nothing to do with lowering it, but now that she keeps getting compliments from people on how much better it looks she loves it.
Your +40 is only 2mm more outward than my +42. We are pushing the limit, and are right on the edge. frstrtdmac went 5mm past the limit so he needs to make room by trimming his plastic arch 5mm. You'll be fine. And like I said before, the offer is open to come by and take a drive in our car if you'd like to see for yourself how it is.
#99
Hujan, you'll be fine with your setup, it's only 2mm more outward than mine.
The NM springs don't drop it that much, I can't see spending a lot of money on something else only to lower it even less than the NM springs do. Aftermarket coilovers are great if you want to go super low, but for just a mild 1.5" drop you can't beat the NM springs, they're the best bang for the buck modification you can make to the R60.
My wife is a 50 year old woman who has never driven a lowered car in her life. She is the last person you'd expect to have lowering springs on her car. Believe me, if I went and did something to her brand new pride and joy that caused it to make noises, or do something funny, she would of had me put it back to the way it was immediately. She wanted nothing to do with lowering it, but now that she keeps getting compliments from people on how much better it looks she loves it.
Your +40 is only 2mm more outward than my +42. We are pushing the limit, and are right on the edge. frstrtdmac went 5mm past the limit so he needs to make room by trimming his plastic arch 5mm. You'll be fine. And like I said before, the offer is open to come by and take a drive in our car if you'd like to see for yourself how it is.
The NM springs don't drop it that much, I can't see spending a lot of money on something else only to lower it even less than the NM springs do. Aftermarket coilovers are great if you want to go super low, but for just a mild 1.5" drop you can't beat the NM springs, they're the best bang for the buck modification you can make to the R60.
My wife is a 50 year old woman who has never driven a lowered car in her life. She is the last person you'd expect to have lowering springs on her car. Believe me, if I went and did something to her brand new pride and joy that caused it to make noises, or do something funny, she would of had me put it back to the way it was immediately. She wanted nothing to do with lowering it, but now that she keeps getting compliments from people on how much better it looks she loves it.
Your +40 is only 2mm more outward than my +42. We are pushing the limit, and are right on the edge. frstrtdmac went 5mm past the limit so he needs to make room by trimming his plastic arch 5mm. You'll be fine. And like I said before, the offer is open to come by and take a drive in our car if you'd like to see for yourself how it is.
Though, I'll admit that frstrtdmac and Shoe Coupe's comments about rubbing and harshness, respectively, made me hesitate about the NM springs. What is your take on needing to replace the rear LCA to avoid uneven tire wear? Way of Waymotorworks recommended them to me when I brought up the NM springs the other day.
And, in your experience, will the lowering springs beat up the stock struts in the long run, or is that overblown in your experience?
#100
I'm wondering why I haven't seen these mentioned here before - would they be a good option to get the rear camber back in line after the NM drop?
http://www.altaperformance.com/count...r-control-arms
http://www.altaperformance.com/count...r-control-arms