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I'm gonna ask something many have asked before. Should I get KW V1's or NM Engineering Springs and a 19mm rear sway bar?
I have Challenge Wheels with 215/45's so I'd need 5mm spacers if I get coilovers I believe.
I'm looking for a modest drop, maybe around 1"-ish. My main concern is getting rid of some of the body roll I'm experiencing with my base suspension and improving handling in general. I auto-x rarely but do drive aggressively, so I don't know if coilovers are overkill. Should I get adjustable endlinks if I get the rear sway bar? Should I consider camber plates instead of a rear sway bar?
I would get the KW's simply because of the extra suspension travel. Lowering the car on stock struts is like starting with 1 hand tied behind your back....
I'm gonna ask something many have asked before. Should I get KW V1's or NM Engineering Springs and a 19mm rear sway bar?
I have Challenge Wheels with 215/45's so I'd need 5mm spacers if I get coilovers I believe.
I'm looking for a modest drop, maybe around 1"-ish. My main concern is getting rid of some of the body roll I'm experiencing with my base suspension and improving handling in general. I auto-x rarely but do drive aggressively, so I don't know if coilovers are overkill. Should I get adjustable endlinks if I get the rear sway bar? Should I consider camber plates instead of a rear sway bar?
Thanks!
When you drive aggressively on the street, what do you not like about the way the car handles?
Feels like it's got a lot of body roll and could use some more grip.
Springs will help the body roll. Lowering will help you with the overall grip since it reduces the cg. A sway bar will help you with the body roll as well but do not overdo this as it will cause oversteer and the back end can step out. A 19 mm is generally fine and will not cause the inner rear tire to lift off the ground in a turn. If you lower the car, you should get end links to keep the sway bar level and balanced. It is perfectly OK to go with springs if you are doing street driving. Most people like coils as it gives them adjustability. Coilovers such as KW V1 are generally not recommended for heavy duty track use.
Camber plates will help you with the understeer or push. Since you did not specifically mention that problem, you can do those incrementally at a later time.
Tuning a suspension can be done incrementally and is not a one size fits all such as do these 5 things and your car will handle perfectly. It depends on the problem you are trying to solve, what you do with the car and how you drive. Try a few things and see how if suits you, then try a few more.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by slinger688; 11-04-2009 at 05:10 AM.
From what you stated, you definitely don't need coilovers. The NM springs and a stiffer rear sway bar would be a great starting point. Fixed camber plates and adjustable rear control arms could would be the next small step to further improve handling and prevent uneven tire wear.
It sounds like I should go for the springs rear sway + endlinks first and see where that takes me. I can always get camber plates later and coilovers if I start driving more seriously.
If I was tracking the car a lot I'd go for the KW V2's at the min. from what I know. Suspension tuning in the past for me has always been springs and bilsteins/konis so I'm a little lacking in the specifics of the other components.
You can also improve the grip substantially with a proper choice of tires.
The rear control arms may be necessary (depending on how much the car is lowered) to give you adjustability of the rear camber and toe beyond what is avialable from the factory.
I would get the KW's simply because of the extra suspension travel. Lowering the car on stock struts is like starting with 1 hand tied behind your back....
Just my opinion.
- Andrew
+1
and yer 215/45 tires sound kind of tall. If you desire a good stance with the right look of a drop coil overs are also adjustable so you can get that look you're looking for. Coil overs is the only way to go for myself.
__________________ Installed: m7 Super AGS - m7 T/IC boost tube - ALTA FMIC - AccessPORT -reso delete - H&R RSS coil overs - ALTA rear lower control arms - m7 oil catch can - m7 heat shield - m7 CF Vortex 2 hood scoop - 17x7 gold Konig Feathers w/ 205/40-17's Waiting to be installed: ALTA s/shifter
Tire calcs are showing almost a 1/2" difference. 24.26" on the 205, and 24.6 on the 215. Still not that drastic. Some reason I was thinking 40 series on stock 205 at the time.
__________________ Installed: m7 Super AGS - m7 T/IC boost tube - ALTA FMIC - AccessPORT -reso delete - H&R RSS coil overs - ALTA rear lower control arms - m7 oil catch can - m7 heat shield - m7 CF Vortex 2 hood scoop - 17x7 gold Konig Feathers w/ 205/40-17's Waiting to be installed: ALTA s/shifter
Tire calcs are showing almost a 1/2" difference. 24.26" on the 205, and 24.6 on the 215. Still not that drastic. Some reason I was thinking 40 series on stock 205 at the time.
I was using TireRack spec numbers. The online calculators are theoretical. I assume the TireRack numbers are closer to real life.
__________________
Robin Casady Bombadil: 2007 MINI Cooper S, R56, Pure Silver, LSD, Wood Shift Knob, Rota Slipstream 16x7, NAV, HIFI...
