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I cannot get the top strut nut back on due to the lack of deflection. I can get them on if I remove one washer from the chain though, but that is not good.
Do not want to over simplify, but compress the springs. Put a jack under the assembly and lift slightly (safety first - be careful not to lift the car on the jack stands).
Ron-S - thank you for the thought, but it is not limited by the spring. Even with the spring completely out of the equation they do not go on. I have cross coilovers and the hat stops where it is supposed to on the shaft.
The poly bushings just dont compress at all in order to catch a little bit of thread. The only thing I can think of is a specialized c-clamp.
Hope you got struts back together, but if not, is there anyway you have the very top concave washer backwards? the low spot should point down. Good install pdf here.
Did you try putting the original bushings back on and did it fit? I don't recall the MM ones being anythicker or too tough to get to go on. The only thing I could think would be that the parts are some how out of order. #4, 6, 7 in the PDF of the strut assembly order if wrong might cause your issue. On page Ten #4 is shown how it should be with the strut up and #6 and 7 what you see should be facing down (referanced if it was on the car). Other than that is the strut(s) good? could it just be compessed and not comming back out?
Let us know what happens.
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"You can fool some of the people all of the time, and all of the people some of the time, but you can not fool all of the people all of the time." - Abraham Lincoln
OK, I just reread this thead. You are using cross coilovers? If the MM bushing can't go on wouldn't you be bottoming out all the time? Are you using the stock "bump stop" and is it cut down? Or am I missunderstanding your issue?
You can't assemble the strut with the MM bushings right?
The Cross setup does not use the factory bumpstops, but it does re-use the factory hat where the two bushings are at. The top of the strut passes through the bushings and is threaded where a nut goes on and holds it all together. There is another assembly below this that holds the spring together - it is completely independent (with or without spring in place it is still the same amount of area taken up)
You can see in that photo that the rear setup will not bolt to the car w/o the top hat. The top hat is added with some washers and a spacer and the bushings
Well if you have the bushings in the right order; one on either side of the top plate (big bushing on coilover spring perch, then top plate then smaller bushing) I can't see what else it would be but a function of the coilover top sping perch to end of strut shaft (just as you said)
Hold on, I have my old stock struts and can measure end shaft length. I know this won't take into account some of the other atttatched componants but might give an idea.
OK I've got 2 1/8 inches from what I whould call the shaft "stop" (where the shaft diameter gets bigger) to the end. If you have too much less that could be the issue.
Also you said if you removed a washer it would work. Did you mean the last one under the nut (concaved one), becuase if not I don't think anyother washer should be in the way.
page 10 (exploded view of strut ass'y) you are only using #4, 5, 6 ,7 ,8.
4 and 6 being MM's bushings. There is a washer IN #4 (don't know how important that is) so no distance lost there. the only washer left is the concaved one (#7) unless one has been suppled by cross for the strut nut, in which case I would not use it.
I can't see why one above #6 would be needed at all with the large concave one there, I would loose that. and maybe with just the concave one it would put a more pinpoint pressure on bushing easing installation. I don't understand about the one under #4; a spacer? is this necessary to keep top plate from hitting spring perch? If so maybe a mod on the spacer since the MM bushings will deflect less.
I need to go, but it sounds like you've done about all you can, did you contact who sold you the coilovers? Or as mentioned by someone else maybe
MM might have some insight.
And you know I can't belive no one else has been though this; doesn't anyone like the MM bushings, I really did like the extra feel. Almost like adding
a little more to the strut bar. the rear SEEMED more stable.
You ever get the MM bushings in, or did you just stay with the stockers?
And how do you like the Cross CO's in general? It was one I was considering
before I settled on the FSD's. I truely like the FSD's but wonder if a little stiffer would have been better.
