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Ive done almost all there is to do on the engine so now I need light to be shed on my Suspension & Braking Needs .
For your info, I dont track my car at all and costs/performance is a major factor in my decision (due to bloody shipping costs - im in Brunei Darussalam).
If you dont track your car you dont need big brakes, end of story. You can only stop as your tires can grip. If you want to decrease your stopping distnace get sticky rubber. If the rubber is so sticky that you are no longer able to lock up your brakes (unlikely) you can graduate to a more aggressive pad if you are cheap or if you are spendy get bigger brakes.
If you are going to do bushings just do them all at once.
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If you dont track your car you dont need big brakes, end of story. You can only stop as your tires can grip. If you want to decrease your stopping distnace get sticky rubber. If the rubber is so sticky that you are no longer able to lock up your brakes (unlikely) you can graduate to a more aggressive pad if you are cheap or if you are spendy get bigger brakes.
If you are going to do bushings just do them all at once.
Thanks, but the brakes are more for bling, so I dont need anything over the top. Just brakes that are both fucntional and looks good...for cheap
For the brakes, can I suggest you to look at the AP racing Big brake kit? I still have to install them but everyone I know that has them loves them.
For the suspension, I'd suggest first of all front and rear trailing arm bushings, they are the most important imho, and then add anyone you want. But if the roads aren't very good where you live, I would be careful with those, I have them and the car is considerably stiffer so on bad roads this might be annoying. As for the coilovers, are you set on the Megans? I would go for Bilstein PSS or KW V1, you don't need many settings if you don't track the car but these will provide height adjustment and they are top stuff (not that the Megans are bad, mind you...)
For the brakes, can I suggest you to look at the AP racing Big brake kit? I still have to install them but everyone I know that has them loves them.
For the suspension, I'd suggest first of all front and rear trailing arm bushings, they are the most important imho, and then add anyone you want. But if the roads aren't very good where you live, I would be careful with those, I have them and the car is considerably stiffer so on bad roads this might be annoying. As for the coilovers, are you set on the Megans? I would go for Bilstein PSS or KW V1, you don't need many settings if you don't track the car but these will provide height adjustment and they are top stuff (not that the Megans are bad, mind you...)
Thanks for that...okay lets refresh:
- AP Racing - I would love these only if it were sub 1k thou
- All front and rear trailing arm bushings - yeap all set..gonna get the Superflex from UK
- Coilovers - I just want a lower stance without compromising confort so I guess the Megans will do...
Thanks for that...okay lets refresh:
- Coilovers - I just want a lower stance without compromising confort so I guess the Megans will do...
Thanks for the input
anymore for anymore?
I want to address this "lower stance without compromising comfort" and start by saying it can't be done.
Comfort is a very subjective issue and anytime you lower a MINI you give some comfort due to the limited travel of the stock and aftermarket systems.
Tire size also plays as big if not bigger factor in the comfort issue. 18's on rubberbands is not comfort. 205/50 on 17's is a good ride with little wheel gap too. In the summer I run a 205/45-16 and in the winter a 205/55-16.
I want to address this "lower stance without compromising comfort" and start by saying it can't be done.
Comfort is a very subjective issue and anytime you lower a MINI you give some comfort due to the limited travel of the stock and aftermarket systems.
Speak for your own lineup. The Megan, BC, and Cross have less overall stroke than stock. The V-Maxx and KW coilovers have the exact same overall stroke as stock at 5.5" front and 4.5" rear (damper stroke). They are also 1.6" shorter, so setting ride height at 1.6" lower than stock results in identical compression travel. They retain stock-ish ride quality by using similar spring rates and damping curves. The KWs are close to critically damped whereas the V-Maxx are a bit underdamped and give a more comfortable street ride than stock.