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On the street, -1.8 for the front works for me. though I have no choice with fixed camber plates. Front tire wear is even across the tread now. Stock front camber always resulted in the outside shoulders wearing away to bald at 15k miles, even with tire rotation at 5k mile intervals. rear camber is stock; no adjustable control arms, yet.
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"Intellectually, I knew what to expect. Emotively, HOLY SH**!!!!!!!"
- A friend, after driving my stock (at the time) 05 MCS ;)
Yes it's a purely street driven car. Here is a pic
Great photo!
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'05 "S" w/ LSD, Chrono Pkg, M7Strut Bar, Bridgestone RE-01R's, ROTA RB's, MM Ultrik Cam, 25mm rear sway bar, M7 OCC, M7 CAI MINI's on the Dragon '08 VIR Full Course
I am also running -1.8 in the front (my daily driver 2004 MCS) SPC adjustable camber plates, with FSDs and stock "sport" springs all around, 17" x 7.5" wheels and Kumho Ecstas at 38 lbs. all round unless I'm going to Vegas or something, in which case I add two pounds all around) and 19mm Alta rr anti-sway (set to "stiffest") and H-Sport adjustable lower control arms in the rear. 0 toe. Result has been perfect tread wear front and rear (Kumhos NEVER lasted or performed this well for me before) and handling I like. The car is not too prone to follow lines in the road, turns in well, very little roll in corners, but the ride is not harsh. Working well so far.
Where ever you start, keep track of driving tendancies (the cars, as well as yours) and adjust carefully from where you start. Street vs track isn't really as important as turns vs straight and what you like a car to perform like.
If this is a new world for you, find a good performance suspension/allignement place near where you live and start working with them.
is always good for some education as well as some funny stories.....
There are two guys who do road racing there in Mustangs. They have very different driving styles and are very close in times. At one event, they traded cars for a session. They were both much much slower. The cars were set-up for each drivers "style" and because the styles were so different when they switched, they could barly keep up with the pack.....
in the 60s when one was in a more competitive race environment, one of the workers there was winning a lot. So the slower teams were always looking at what they were doing... so one weekend they set up thier car with a really, really asenine suspension bias (one side of the car much higher than the other) and lo-and-behold, next weekend a bunch of cars showed up with the very same screwy set up.
I got good laughs from the way the guys told the stories, but more importantly, the lesson burried in there is that there isn't a best, but there is a good compramize between how the car is driven and how it's set up. You match these two and you get a fast car that gets the most it has to give. You do a bad job matching the two, and you get a slow car that is harder to drive and doesn't last as long.
I live in hills. -2 camber up front doubled my tire life. If you do straight driving much more than I do, it will probably decrease tire life.
Front tire wear is even across the tread now. Stock front camber always resulted in the outside shoulders wearing away to bald at 15k miles, even with tire rotation at 5k mile intervals. rear camber is stock; no adjustable control arms, yet. 
