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  #1  
Old 09-01-2008, 08:16 AM
Lt_hailbob Lt_hailbob is offline
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Tarett swaybar

Is anybody using this swaybar? It seems to be the best one available, as well as the most expensive.

http://www.tarett.com/items/mini-coo...sba-detail.htm
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:25 AM
hemiheaded18 hemiheaded18 is offline
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It's a sweet setup but it's the same as the Webb bar.
http://webbmotorsports.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=26
Great if your gonna build a true, dedicated track car but hardcore overkill on the street. You could save damn near $300 and buy a 19 or 21mm bar and be done.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:53 AM
THE ITCH THE ITCH is offline
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Lt hailbob
I have had this on my GP for two years and think it is a great product. Ira is a very standup guy and will answer all your questions very quickly. The build quality is excellent and fit quality is superb. If you factor in the cost for drop links the price is very competitive. What I really like about the bar is the adjustability. I originally was on the fence between the 19mm and 22mm bar, this adjustability range fits both. Some times the best laid plans change with new products or ideas and this product gives you the opportunity to adjust if you happen to go to coilovers with different spring rates. I have had no problem with NVH with this install either. If you do not plan on keeping the stock bar ( replacements can be had fairly cheap ) you can cut the old bar off and save yourself the price of a realignment without dropping the rear subframe. Doing it that way is a very quick install. All in all I would rate this as a five star product. If you want the best this is it.
Steve
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:36 AM
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DarrenO'sideCA DarrenO'sideCA is offline
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I second the itch.

If you add up the time savings of cutting out the bar instead of dropping the subframe, not messing with the alignment, the price of the included endlinks, and the "infinite" adjustability of the Tarret bar, you'll see that it's really a good deal. You can do the whole install yourself in about two hours if you cut out the old bar.

I've adjusted mine several times by about a 1/4" each time until I found the ideal spot for my driving.

One tip that I got (after visiting Ira's house ) is to grease all the bushing blocks even though Webb says you don't need to. Note that Ira's been designing and making bars like this one for Porsche racing for years. He knows what he's doing.

I second the 5-star ranking. Oh yeah, and buy it from him as his support tends to be better than Randy's as Randy travels a bunch.

Darren
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Old 09-02-2008, 08:09 AM
Bigshot Bigshot is offline
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$500 sway bar when you really don't need one with the right suspension.....
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2008, 10:49 AM
meb meb is offline
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The only two components I retained after de-tuning the car was the Webb/Tarret rear sway bar and the Power flex front LCA bushings.

The bar works great with either the stock or JCW suspension. You may encounter a little difficulty with bushing alignment. Ira sent me new bushings at his cost, but I still cannot remove all of the bind at the bushing. This is basically due to mis-aligned holes in the Mini rear sub-frame. Although the new bushings offer elongated slots for the nuts, my bind is in the other direction. I removed as much material as I think is appropriate but it's still not perfect.

My bar may have also been an early build, so the splines left ot right do not line up perfectly - the bar ends do not sit parallel with one another. This is not really a problem if you have adjustable endlinks. I'm using the stockers now and I definately need one adjustable endlink. Randy did not send my bar with endlinks...with endlinks this is a superb value!
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Last edited by meb; 09-02-2008 at 10:56 AM.
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2008, 11:00 AM
THE ITCH THE ITCH is offline
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Darren
I have never lubed my bushings as per the instructions and all has been fine. That being said I am always looking for things to maintenance on my car. What was the suggested lube?
Thanks, Steve

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Originally Posted by DarrenO'sideCA View Post
I second the itch.

If you add up the time savings of cutting out the bar instead of dropping the subframe, not messing with the alignment, the price of the included endlinks, and the "infinite" adjustability of the Tarret bar, you'll see that it's really a good deal. You can do the whole install yourself in about two hours if you cut out the old bar.

I've adjusted mine several times by about a 1/4" each time until I found the ideal spot for my driving.

One tip that I got (after visiting Ira's house ) is to grease all the bushing blocks even though Webb says you don't need to. Note that Ira's been designing and making bars like this one for Porsche racing for years. He knows what he's doing.

I second the 5-star ranking. Oh yeah, and buy it from him as his support tends to be better than Randy's as Randy travels a bunch.

Darren
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  #8  
Old 09-02-2008, 11:59 AM
meb meb is offline
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I use silver anit-sieze a couple times a year - take it all apart and clean and re-lube.
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2008, 11:40 PM
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DarrenO'sideCA DarrenO'sideCA is offline
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Itch,

It was just regular ole' grease. Nothing special. Ira suggested it so I did it.

Darren
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Old 09-12-2008, 07:05 AM
drsilvermini drsilvermini is offline
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Are the Tarett sway bar and the WMS sway bar the same? The endlinks seem to be a little different. Recommendations if one is better than another?
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:23 AM
THE ITCH THE ITCH is offline
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drsilvermini
The bars are the same so are the endlinks. Tarett is the mfg and supplied them to Webb.
Steve

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Originally Posted by drsilvermini View Post
Are the Tarett sway bar and the WMS sway bar the same? The endlinks seem to be a little different. Recommendations if one is better than another?
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:23 AM
 
 
 
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