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I've been driving back and forth to work the past few days 50 miles each way so by the time alignment day comes I should have about 600 miles on them, which I think is enough time to allow everything to settle. So what you're saying is just slam all four coils down, get an alignment and then see where I stand with ride height? I'm going to use the BC how-to thread for recommended alignment specs, I know you posted some as well as a few others so I'll take that all into effect. I'm looking for a setting that will increase the occasional twisty road drive yet not be too harsh on highway driving which is what I do most.
Steve
i think your springs should be settled.
well, if you set them as low as possible pre alignment, you can't set them any lower afterwards right? . so if you're sure you want to be about 1.5" lower all around...go for it. i'm about an inch and a quarter lower all around. i have found only one location where bottoming out is an issue at this height. btw, i have an omp lower support bar, which is what hits....if i didn't have it, i'd be fine. that said, the benefits of the bar outweigh this issue so far.
lastly, i'm kinda obsessive, so when i dropped the car another 1/4" (from 1 to 1 1/4") i got another alignment and the pre and post alignment numbers were significantly different. the "slam it all the way" method you propose right at the start would save you that step
__________________ You were born to rock, you'll never be an opera star!
sweet thanks alot man for the tips, hopefully i'll get the height done on tuesday and then get the alignment wed and go out and hit those back roads hard!! Cant wait to go down to the Dragon at the end of the month....last time I was there I was stock, now I got the Alta 22mm bar and BC's so should be significantly improved....WOO HOO more fun for me!
Steve
__________________ 2005 MCS HB/B LSD, VinylStyles: headlight rings, door handles, and stripes, ALTA: CAI, 17% v2.0, 22mm RSB, OCC, Diverter; BC Coilovers, H-Sport Lwr Cntl Arms, Detroit Tuned BPV, Invidia Cat-Back, RMW street header, JCW plugs HBOC #100 * MMC #415
I'm sure this is posted somewhere, but google yields nothing.
What are the stock spring rates, what is the stock ride height, and what is the valving of the stock dampeners like? The reason being, as dull and pointless as this sounds, is that if I were to get coilovers I'd want to keep stock attributes. The point would be more precise movement and a reduction in unsprung/total car weight.
__________________
9/29/2002 EB/W MCS Broken - temporarily retired
Original owner since 2002.
Spring rate...I think are very hard to find...
Height is going to vary slightly with each car, but just measure yours
Valving...may be even more difficult to find...
I don't even know where to start...good luck though.
this is a very informative thread, but the first post lists the springs on the RSS club sports as being progressive, they are not. they are linear, and very stiff. the coils that are closer together are dead coils, designed to touch when under load. the functioning coils are the ones that are further apart. up front, only one full coil and at the rear about 2.5 coils. all the rest only take up the space when the car is unloaded, like on a lift.
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chris
03 MCS | comptech header | milltek exhaust | alta 15% | wms 2% crank | MTH std file | H&R RSS Club Sport coilovers | IE adj camber plates | alta psrs | steve's adj rr ctrl arms | no front swaybar | homebrew CAI | homebrew catch can | defi d-gauge boost | aero grill | R56 front calipers and rotors | EBC yellow stuff | ATE super blue | 225/45/16 bfg kdw2 | flik ftd 16X7 ET42 |
up front, only one full coil and at the rear about 2.5 coils. all the rest only take up the space when the car is unloaded, like on a lift.
only one active coil up-front?! jeez, a) no wondering it's extremely stiff, & b) no wonder folks are getting mushrooming from such limited travel with the force unable to go anywhere else when that one coil binds. Man, I have like 5 active coils up-front w/my 900 lb/in Eibach 2.5" racing springs on my other hopped-up car.
__________________ Factory '09 JCW:DS/DS, Pkgs#1,2,3, Carbon Lounge Leather, Gray Line,
NAV, HD-Premium Sound, Xenon, other stuff...ooh & Mud Flaps! <hahaha>
...he goes by the name Lil'Buddy...
the coil will not bind, it was designed properly by H&R. number of coils have nothing to do with spring bind, it's the distance between the coils. remember back to when the megans came out, they had coil binding issues, and the springs were all active coils. if you look at the picture you can see how far apart the coil windings are on the active coil. these units use bilstein front inserts with internal bump stops, i can assure you these do not bottom out. ever. plus the fact that the fronts are "only" 500lbs/in, i would say my chances of mushrooming are half of what yours are.
__________________
chris
03 MCS | comptech header | milltek exhaust | alta 15% | wms 2% crank | MTH std file | H&R RSS Club Sport coilovers | IE adj camber plates | alta psrs | steve's adj rr ctrl arms | no front swaybar | homebrew CAI | homebrew catch can | defi d-gauge boost | aero grill | R56 front calipers and rotors | EBC yellow stuff | ATE super blue | 225/45/16 bfg kdw2 | flik ftd 16X7 ET42 |
I have a set of Koni coilovers installed. Is there any way to adjust the rear ride height without taking the coil off the strut or without taking the suspension assembly off of the car?
I should mention that wen i try to adjust the perches the spring tension is so strong that the entire assembly turns. The actual perches don't go up or down. It's such a pain in the ass....
I have a set of Koni coilovers installed. Is there any way to adjust the rear ride height without taking the coil off the strut or without taking the suspension assembly off of the car?
I should mention that wen i try to adjust the perches the spring tension is so strong that the entire assembly turns. The actual perches don't go up or down. It's such a pain in the ass....
I don't follow what you're saying?? If the bottom of the strut is bolted to the car the strut won't move on its axis...
EDIT: I never posted pics with the PSS9's installed. Don't let the shadows fool you, I'm tucking front and rear, the rear is more tucked than the front as it sits. Front - full drop, rear - 3/4-1" to go.
does anyone know if its ok to change the rear megan springs (which is rated 6kg) to 7kg? the rear shocks are valved for 6kg, so i wonder if its a good idea to put stiffer springs, idealy i want to try to make it even like the fronts or a bit stiffer.
__________________ "... we need a ferrari, no two ferraris powersliding around a bentley that is also powersliding." - Jeremy Clarkson
Raising it 1K may not be too big of a problem...usually these companies have them valved to be a range(could be 5-7K or might not be...just depends)...I know this doesn't help much, but I don't think it would be all too bad...
__________________
BlackSapphire~
2009 MCS ~ KW Coilovers, Konig Feathers, Whalen SM, Alta CAI, Alta LCAs, Alta Endlinks, Alta Sway Bar, a partridge in a pear tree.
All... I notice that the KW COs don't use jam nuts against the adjusting ring. Is this an accurate statement?
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BlackSapphire~
2009 MCS ~ KW Coilovers, Konig Feathers, Whalen SM, Alta CAI, Alta LCAs, Alta Endlinks, Alta Sway Bar, a partridge in a pear tree.
plus the fact that the fronts are "only" 500lbs/in, i would say my chances of mushrooming are half of what yours are.
lol, no 'other', as in C43 AMG w/5.4L conversion & near racing suspension: Speedybenz On Board I'll bottom-out the tires on the top of the wheel well before binding the springs, from experience.
Thanx for the follow-up info about the springs in any case.
__________________ Factory '09 JCW:DS/DS, Pkgs#1,2,3, Carbon Lounge Leather, Gray Line,
NAV, HD-Premium Sound, Xenon, other stuff...ooh & Mud Flaps! <hahaha>
...he goes by the name Lil'Buddy...
Last edited by minim8o; 02-28-2009 at 11:52 AM.
Reason: fixed link to start @ the 1st post of the thread
Ride isn't bad, it's bouncy now because I'm on full stiff but when I was 5 clicks from full stiff (out of 9) the ride wasn't bad at all. Granted, I get 'feedback' from the 'imperfections' in the road but it wasn't bouncy.
Gonna bring it down another ~1/4" F/R and set the dampers to 6 F and 5 R when I stop being lazy.
Just installed H&R RSS clubsport coilovers,Camber plates, & rear contol arms I got off marketplace. My friend owns alignment shop so going to him in the morning. So far not as stiff at I was thinking they would be. Ride is better then it was stock yet I can still feel the road. Front is at 1/8th from highest setting any lower and I'm unable to get my floor jack under the jacking point. Went from 3 fingers gap in front to -1 finger (scientific measurement).
just a thought. most springs tend to take a few days to a week and a half to "settle." you might want to hold off on the alignment for a week if you can.
__________________ You were born to rock, you'll never be an opera star!
Thank you oxtox still lots to do to get it the way I want.
Yes I knew that with new springs would need to wait. As these are used you think they will still settle?
. so if you're sure you want to be about 1.5" lower all around...go for it. i'm about an inch and a quarter lower all around. i have found only one location where bottoming out is an issue at this height. btw, i have an omp lower support bar, which is what hits....if i didn't have it, i'd be fine. that said, the benefits of the bar outweigh this issue so far.
2005 MCS HB/B LSD, VinylStyles: headlight rings, door handles, and stripes, ALTA: CAI, 17% v2.0, 22mm RSB, OCC, Diverter; BC Coilovers, H-Sport Lwr Cntl Arms, Detroit Tuned BPV, Invidia Cat-Back, RMW street header, JCW plugs
Front - full drop, rear - 3/4-1" to go.
"... we need a ferrari, no two ferraris powersliding around a bentley that is also powersliding." - Jeremy Clarkson
