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I had the M7 STB's....the plates + strut bar. Yes, it's tight on the Craven's but it didn't cause the cable sheathing to wear through like the M7 did (in 5k miles no less).
Fair enough!
Thanks again!
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| 2oo5 MCSa | Born: o5-1o-o5 | Adopted: o6-22-o9 @ 49,920 miles | Hybrid Induction "Dave.F" modified airbox | Koni FSDs | CravenSpeed STDs | MINI cabrio braces | 16" R1o2 S-Winders/15" R81 Imolas | more to come? |
We are closing out the Red color of STDS since we sell mostly black. If anyone is interested I just dropped the price on Red ones to $119.95. Also, the included adapter bolts are shorter now than in the photo
I noticed we have a photo of PGT's Mini up on our page since he submitted it in our make your MINI famous thread.
A torque wrench has nothing to do with bolt sizing and everything to do with the degree of tightness a bolt or nut is fastened. You should use a torque wrench only for fastening.
DEFINITELY use a torque wrench set at the proper setting when tightening the nuts on the strut tower bolts. If you over-tighten, the bolt will SNAP off! Then you'll have a major problem on your hands. I speak from experience ...
A set of STDs should be arriving in the next couple of days!
So, a regular wrench to remove the existing nuts, and a torque wrench to fasten the new ones? What is the proper setting for the latter?
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| 2oo5 MCSa | Born: o5-1o-o5 | Adopted: o6-22-o9 @ 49,920 miles | Hybrid Induction "Dave.F" modified airbox | Koni FSDs | CravenSpeed STDs | MINI cabrio braces | 16" R1o2 S-Winders/15" R81 Imolas | more to come? |
Thanks, Ian. But a torque wrench is still necessary/highly recommended?
To be honest, it seriously depends on your wrenching experience. If you're one of those types who tends to think, "hmm... maybe this should be just a little bit tighter...oops..." then I'd recommend a torque wrench...
__________________ "Market research is bunk... the public don't know what they want, it is my job to tell them" - Sir Alec Issigonis