Suspension M7 USS...riv nuts went poo poo
#1
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Barksdale AFB, LA
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M7 USS...riv nuts went poo poo
So I went to install my USS and got to the part where you have to install the riv nuts. Well I got them in no prob (even put red threadlocker on them), but when I went to put the bolts in no prob the passanger side went flawless... not drivers side oh let me tell you im pissed I stared to thread the nut and got it about 1/4 the way and the damn riv nut just started to spin! None the less about two hours of fighting it and tring to figure something out I had to take the front portion the brace off...
NOW that riv nuts our out the picture any one of some cold weld epoxy that is PERMANANT! I know there is jb weld, but is there something stronger that can take the abuse... LET ME KNOW it seems that a cold weld epoxy is the best thing to do....
NOW that riv nuts our out the picture any one of some cold weld epoxy that is PERMANANT! I know there is jb weld, but is there something stronger that can take the abuse... LET ME KNOW it seems that a cold weld epoxy is the best thing to do....
#3
Mine did the same thing and this is how I fixed it. I got a nut with a flaired head - the type that looks like it has a washer attached to and it has ridges on it to lock into the metal so it doesn't spin when tightening and also is larger than the hole created by the rivnut. I then fed a magnet with a flexible shaft through the hole where the rivnut was and fed it through unibody frame back to where the second hole was in the unibody frame. I then put the nut to the magnet and pulled it back through to the rivnut hole. Put a little JBweld on the nut to hold it in place and then attached the USS with a bolt. Works well and there is no worry that things will ever come loose. Hope this helps.
Last edited by bostoncooper; 12-22-2007 at 06:22 PM.
#5
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Mine did the same thing and this is how I fixed it. I got a bolt with a flaired head - the type that looks like it has a washer attached to and it has ridges on it to lock into the metal so it doesn't spin when tightening and also is larger than the hole created by the rivnut. I then fed a magnet with a flexible shaft through the hole where the rivnut was and fed it through unibody frame back to where the second hole was in the unibody frame. I then put the nut to the magnet and pulled it back through to the rivnut hole. Put a little JBweld on the nut to hold it in place and then attached the USS with a bolt. Works well and there is no worry that things will ever come loose. Hope this helps.
I think I see what you did... I think I'll give this a go...
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#9
A simple solution
Phantom,
Can understand your frustration. Been there, done that. Tightening up the RivNut that last little bit turns out to be easy, provided you haven't accidentally stripped the threads or bent the insert. The method of putting a serrated lock washer between the "head" of the RivNut, followed by a nut, followed by a short stack of lubricated washers and then tightening up with a spare bolt, holding the nut steady and firm against the lock washer with another wrench, to cinch the RivNut up tight works great.
I've done this dozens of times and is simple and easy. I WOULD AVOID LOCTITE AND AVOID OVERTIGHTENING THE BOLT IN THE RIVNUT. The issue is that the RivNuts will "settle" after initial installation and "set" a little more in use. After a short period of use it is wise to retighten the bolt a bit. The threads let go at about 20 or 22 ft / lbs of torque. I keep my torque setting at about 18 ft / lbs for M8 bolts. If the threads do strip, just chisel the insert head off and pop in a new one. Tighten the same way.
Hope this helps,
John Petrich in Seattle
Can understand your frustration. Been there, done that. Tightening up the RivNut that last little bit turns out to be easy, provided you haven't accidentally stripped the threads or bent the insert. The method of putting a serrated lock washer between the "head" of the RivNut, followed by a nut, followed by a short stack of lubricated washers and then tightening up with a spare bolt, holding the nut steady and firm against the lock washer with another wrench, to cinch the RivNut up tight works great.
I've done this dozens of times and is simple and easy. I WOULD AVOID LOCTITE AND AVOID OVERTIGHTENING THE BOLT IN THE RIVNUT. The issue is that the RivNuts will "settle" after initial installation and "set" a little more in use. After a short period of use it is wise to retighten the bolt a bit. The threads let go at about 20 or 22 ft / lbs of torque. I keep my torque setting at about 18 ft / lbs for M8 bolts. If the threads do strip, just chisel the insert head off and pop in a new one. Tighten the same way.
Hope this helps,
John Petrich in Seattle
Last edited by Petrich; 12-22-2007 at 12:14 PM.
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#11
M7 stuff
Check out pg 2 of this guy's web site. He has pictures and story documenting the poor rivnut selection by M7 from 2006. It is surprising that M7 has not addressed that problem.
dpcars.net
Petrich, you'd appreciate his info on tracking the Mini, and his design thoughts on his home built race car.
dpcars.net
Petrich, you'd appreciate his info on tracking the Mini, and his design thoughts on his home built race car.
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