Yeah different issue. Sorry. That's definitely electrical and not mechanical. If it's only one one side then I'd bet on it being the connection at the door or the actuator at the door. If it's both sides it gets more complicated to track back through the harness. I'd make sure you're getting juice to the actuator, if you are (which I bet you aren't) then I'd test/replace the actuator at the door.

 

the actuator locks electrically though, and when i go to unlock it, it makes a noise, like its moving, it just doesnt unlock the door.

locking Does work though.

 

If the actuator is moving then the problem is from it on. Either the mechanism inside of it is broken or the connection between the actuator and the locking mechanism is broken or disconnected. I'm guessing here. Look in a manual or realoem to see how it is looks and connects. Another possibilty that I just thought of, the actuator isn't getting enough juice to fully operate and then the trouble shooting goes back to electrical. I'd look mechanical first.

1) Look to see if the actuator's connection to the mechanical locking mechanism is secure.
2) Remove the acutuator but leave it hooked up to the wireing and cycle it a few times and see if it is moving.

Again, not a pro mechanic so take my advice for what's it's worth but that is my best guess.

 

Driver's side door just quit yesterday (03 MCS 71K). The remote, as well as the switch locks and unlocks all others (i.e., passenger door, boot and gas cap), however, there is no response from the driver's side door. I am able to unlock it from inside with the handle as usual, and from outside manually with the key. When I put my ear to the door and listen while locking/unlocking with the remote, I hear the gas cap modulator engage in the rear, but I dont hear anything from the driver's side. Is it safe to assume that the regulator is gone, since it does not seem to be an issue with the cables? Is it true that this will cost around $400!!!!?
Thanks in advance for your time.

 

More than likely. Sounds just like mine and the regulator was the culprit. ABout that much to fix just that (mine was higher as the window regulator was going wonky too).

 

Thanks! I will try to see whether I can buy the part with a discount and have it installed by a local shop. If the price comes closer to dealer's quote, then I may just go there, since there have been number of examples on this thread that the issue may come back...

 

OK... after a little calling around and e-mailing, I have two options:
1) buy the actuator myself ($90) and have the local shop which is really close install it ($180) - total $270 + tax
2) go to a MINI shop 44 miles away and have them order the actuator ($60-70) and install it (~$100) - total $170 + tax
Most likely I'll go with the second option and pocket the extra $100
Oh, the dealer asked $525 ($166 parts) for it !!!!

 

03MCS, 60149, passenger side. off the lock switch on dash and the key, nothing, has to be unlocked manually. It does however work sometimes, somebody said something about a loose wire, how would I get to this? I have been trying to keep from taking it apart, because I go mad and start changing stuff that way. HEHEHEEHE

 

I picked up the actuator this afternoon. My weekend project is to replace this on the driver's side. Of course, I'll take lots of pictures and make a detailed DIY for door panel removal and changing actuator, since I have not found any out there... At least people will see where things are and how they are connected behind the door panel before attempting to replace anything...

 

I removed the door panel and located the actuator. The space is VERY tight behind the door panel. The picture is taken by a tiny Canon camera that fits in there nicely.

There are 5 connections that need to be removed and re-connected to the new actuator (they are labeled on the picture 1-5).
1) connection to key slot for manual key operation (is this true?)
2) cable from the inside door handle
3) connection from the door lock button
4) cable coming from door handle
5) electrical connection (not visible in the first picture - blocked by the window rail- but shown clearly on the new one)

The actuator is hold in place by 3 screws accessible from outside. Once I remove them, the actuator hangs by the above connections. The easiest to remove is number 3; you just pull it... Electrical connection seems easy as well; just pull it hard.

My main problem is number 1. There is no space to pull it out from the actuator. As you see in the picture the metal part -indicated by green arrows- just does not have any play. I sort of know the answer to this, but I'll ask anyways. Do I need to remove the door handle completely to disconnect number 1? The screw that holds the door handle is also accessible from the inside door panel. I am guessing that I will have a good access from the hole if/once the door handle is removed. If anyone can confirm that this is the way to go, then I will remove the door handle and disconnect all the cables through there...

I dont know how #2 is removed, because the new part has just the space to fit that, and seems like the cable needs to be attached to the hook (next to the spring). If I could have taken a picture "facing" the actuator, it might have been easier.

#4 seems easy as well. The new actuator does not come with the part that is indicated by the blue arrows. I guess once I unscrew that part, then I can re-install it to the new one easily.

Given the VERY limited space in there and not knowing how things go back in, I put everything back together after taking the pictures. I am not afraid of taking the door handle off, disconnecting the cables, etc, but if I mess something up and cant lock the door, then I have to sleep in the car, because I street park If I had a garage, it would have been a different story...

If you have any experience with this job and could provide any feedback, I'd appreciate it. My appointment with the shop is on Tuesday. So, I have few more days to try this out

Thanks!

 

Great write up and photo documentation volki.
My 03 suffers the same door lock problem as yours, your post is encouraging me to fix it before Winter.
Push on you will fix it.

 

I will, as soon as I figure out whether I need to remove the door handle or not... Just did a search with the term "actuator" and it appears that the window may need to be removed as well. If this is the case, I have neither the tools nor the knowledge to remove and re-align the window. I wish I had a MINI mechanic friend to call and just ask about the steps of this job... Worse comes to worst, I'll be paying ~$200 for the fix (50-50 part-labor); not too bad. Even if I end up going to the shop for this, I'll "try" to see how they do it, since there is another actuator on the passenger side, right

Thanks in advance!

 

Keep in mind my experience is with an '03, which may be different than your specifics Volki. I did remove the inside door handle to give the cable some play, but only to install the new actuator, not to remove it. I reached in and pried off the connections for #1 and 3 on your pics, then pulled it foward to release #2.

I know there are some tips and illustrations elsewhere on NAM...try searching under "door lock" or "power lock"

Dave

 

Can anyone who has bought these themselves confirm the part numbers? I have:
51200556768
51214416272

My dealer is quoting $128.64/ea for these. Anyone have a cheaper source?

 

The wholesale price for the actuator is $89.00 (+tax). I got mine from Crevier BMW/MINI through a RoadFly MINI forum member discount. I think Classic MINI offers discount to NAM members; you might want to check them. The next best thing above the wholesale price was $105 (from the supplier of the local shop). Long Beach BMW asked $142 for the exact same part!!!

 

03 MCS passenger side 55k

 

I have the cable problem with my driver's door and the power lock problem with my passenger door. I have to reach over and unlock the passenger door with the handle and unlock the driver door with the unlock switch. Good times.

 

I have an 04' Cooper S with 60K miles. Driver side electric "unlock" stopped working at about 55 K miles, passengers side electric "unlock" stopped working at 60K. With both doors I could hear the electric module "click", but the door would not unlock.

Thanks to this forum info, I purchased the passenger side door lock module at Classic Mini ( they gave me the module for $100.04 when I mentioned north american motoring ) and replaced it last night. Passenger side door now works again and I plan on changing driver side in a few weeks.

 

MCS 2007 passenger door lock died. 8221 miles. covered under warranty.

 

03 JCW - 85k Miles, Passenger Side - Dead :(

 

Great to hear that they are still using those cheap actuators even in the 2007+ models. Way to go MINI!

 

Hi,

My doors locks and key remote work perfectly, but when I put the key in keylock and try to turn it, it won't, both clockwise and ccw.
I'm not sure that my problem is the same as everyone in this thread, could anyone confirm and maybe enlighten me on what the problem could be?

thanks.

 

new member first post. just got an 03 mini tuesday 35k miles. need to check build date. have been researching before buying and was aware of the problem. drivers side will not lock or unlock via console switch or remote. all other locks work fine. drivers side will unlock manually though. factory warranty just expired before my purchase.

 

I have the same problem, been waiting almost a year on new developments or an upgraded part which now doesn't appear to be happening. So now we are seeing R56's having the same problem. I think binding / lack of lube is causing these actuators to fail i.e. to much drag. The entire mechanism of cables and rod's adds a lot of load to what the actuator coil is asked to move. The door lock button at the top of the door has a lot of resistance and maybe the culprit here. I intend to lube every thing while it's apart but will have to wait till warmer Spring weather to get into this. For the time being the key works fine but you can feel the drag as you turn it to unlock the door.
This has been something even though it's minor that has really been an irritation because lessor car's that I have owned never had this problem.
I'll be doing a postmortem on mine to confirm that theory.
Give Jayson @ Classic Auto Campus a call, he's your man!
Just ordered one, that was the easy part
Best price out there!
NAM supporting vendor, mention North American Motoring for in-stock items at 20% over cost.

Business hours: Monday-Friday
Saturday 8am-6pm Eastern
9am-1pm Eastern
Phone: 440.205.6404

Thanks go out to volki for the great pictures.

 

dealer agreed to pay to have mini dealer fix the lock. now i just have to find the time.

also my hatchback lock. this is my first mini. does it open like the driver/ passenger door when you're inside? one pull to disengage the lock, then a second pull to open? if i hit my remote twice then go to pull open my hatch it is still slightly engaged. a second pull allows it to open. is it screwed too or is this a feature built in? basically i push the little button on the hatchback handle once, then a second push then i can swing it up and open. hopefully i'm making sense.

thanks...