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Poll: Mushrooming/strut mount failure data collection
Welcome to North American Motoring !
Welcome to North American Motoring,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Seems interesting that the majority of mushrooming is with Run-Flats.... Guess the suspension was not designed w/ stiff sidewalls in mind.
I've added my vote - 16's and runflats. for the record NO potholes, and NO major bangs that I can think of. Called MOP and they say it's road-hazard, not covered by warranty.
__________________ http://www.thompsonsmithdesign.com/w...adge-small.JPG #34 Current: 2005 MCS -HB/B tastefully tweeked.
1984 BMW R80 Pacific Blue - FOR SALE Past: 1991 BMW 325iX Diamond Scharz - 4-door, 5spd, AWD - RIP (Electric Fire)
Called MOP and they say it's road-hazard, not covered by warranty.
Well that is disturbing, considering how many MINI's seem to have this mushrooming issue, and how relatively few cars from other manufacturers have this problem. Seems to be a design flaw, not a road hazard issue. I haven't checked yet but Buddha has 4k on him in less than 2 months. I have 17" runflats on stock s-lites and sport suspension.
Well that is disturbing, considering how many MINI's seem to have this mushrooming issue, and how relatively few cars from other manufacturers have this problem. Seems to be a design flaw, not a road hazard issue. I haven't checked yet but Buddha has 4k on him in less than 2 months. I have 17" runflats on stock s-lites and sport suspension.
The 17 inch wheels and the runflats are definitely a risk factor (based on poll responses). You might want to consider re-inforcing the strut towers. (And keeping an eye on the strut mounts regardless of whether you chose to re-inforce the strut towers.)
I have a 2004 MINI Cooper, standard suspension, regular 15" wheels, non-runflats, and have this with both strut mounts, no mushrooming. I have 31k miles, not that much.
I believe it's a design flaw. Why is that other cars don't suffer from it? And yes, the MINI's suspension is firm, but not so much as to destroy strut mounts and towers.
We need to do something about this. It's not normal wear and tear if cars of very variable mileage and very variable wheel/tire/suspension combinations are experiencing the same failures.
I have a 2004 MINI Cooper, standard suspension, regular 15" wheels, non-runflats, and have this with both strut mounts, no mushrooming. I have 31k miles, not that much.
I believe it's a design flaw. Why is that other cars don't suffer from it? And yes, the MINI's suspension is firm, but not so much as to destroy strut mounts and towers.
We need to do something about this. [Emphasis added.] It's not normal wear and tear if cars of very variable mileage and very variable wheel/tire/suspension combinations are experiencing the same failures.
What would you propose be done? MINI has already taken the position that any damage to the strut mount and/or strut towers is a road hazard item. In some instances, MINI is picking up the cost of replacement of the strut mounts. Beyond that, don't hold your breath for MINI to do something. At that point, it becomes a personal decision - how much are you willing to pay for peace of mind? $100 - go with the M7 strut reinforcing plates and keep inspecting your strut mounts. $300-ish - go with Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates and an alignment and the problem should be solved plus you get the benefit of improved handling from the 1.25 degrees of negative camber that is provided by the plates.
My car is scheduled for work on Wed and one of the items is my passenger side mushroomed tower. We'll see what they say.
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MINI owner from APR2004 - DEC2006, now going through a transition in my life.
DC Metro MINIs, MMC #30, Randy Pulley Install #604, MOTORING ID: QUIK060 BlogGoMotoring.com
I have a question.. Will a strut tower brace that uses a large moutning plate ie: jcw help with mushrooming or do i need to do the plates and a bar. I understand that the m7 may do this with there really large plates that come with there bar.
__________________ 06' MCS CR/W, SPORT PKG, MOONROOF, 17" S-lites 17% Alta Classic, Gatorback, TSW Engine Damper, Dinan CAI w/K & N, Aero front Bumper, Aero Grills
I have a question.. Will a strut tower brace that uses a large moutning plate ie: jcw help with mushrooming or do i need to do the plates and a bar. I understand that the m7 may do this with there really large plates that come with there bar.
You need the large plate to relieve the strut tops from mushrooming. The JCW strut bar does not include any type of plates for the strut top to insure no mushrooming. M7 sells SRP's which cover the entire strut top, and you do not need the strut bar. If you want the strut bar, m7's is problably one of the best. I have a 06 with 20k lowered almost 3 inches all the way around, and I run the m7 strut bar. Have no mushrooming to this day. Check out customminishop.com - they sell everything m7.
.Has anyone had this fixed under warranty? Or is everyone getting warranty denied?
Seems to be a case-by-case basis on Good Will not warranty. This is of course providing there is no road damage (pothole type) the is the cause. I gotta give thumbs up to my guys for taking care of my mystery mushroom as there was no other damage beside the bent strut mount causing the mushroomed tower.
My take on the re-inforcement is this, And I've talked to shops and bulders alike with the same response, ANY bar will help with the mushrooming. The weak spot is the strut bearing assembly that is bending, and taking the sheetmetal with it. This will not be corrected by any bar, M7 included, but the brace (JCW, M7 etc) will keep the mushrooming to a minimum. the best fix is to replace the OEM strut mount with stronger camberplates, either adjustable like Helix, or fixed like Ireland Engineering.
__________________ http://www.thompsonsmithdesign.com/w...adge-small.JPG #34 Current: 2005 MCS -HB/B tastefully tweeked.
1984 BMW R80 Pacific Blue - FOR SALE Past: 1991 BMW 325iX Diamond Scharz - 4-door, 5spd, AWD - RIP (Electric Fire)
17" R90's w/ Pirelli Runflats (Stock) and Stock Sport Suspension.
Has anyone had this fixed under warranty? Or is everyone getting warranty denied?
I'm on the fence about pursuing warranty on this, but since I also have a leaky motor mount I have to go to the dealer anyways. Thoughts?
Can somebody help me here? I can't tell what is wrong with that picture AT ALL. My car is cracked on both sides but how can you tell if they are "mushroomed", especially with that picture. I thought the top of the strut was supposed to poke up from that view if it is mushroomed.
I just took my car in for warranty problems and they said my strut towers are mushroomed (which I already knew) and they said if I drive it like that the strut can go right thru the hood! Is it really that bad of a problem or are they scaring me.
Also, I plan on getting the m7 strut brace. What exactly is involved with putting one in. Is it just a matter of literally hammering the piss out of them till there flat? Or do I have to remove the struts and all that? MINI wants over $1000 to fix. $200 sounds alot better for a fix and added handling.
Can somebody help me here? I can't tell what is wrong with that picture AT ALL. My car is cracked on both sides but how can you tell if they are "mushroomed", especially with that picture. I thought the top of the strut was supposed to poke up from that view if it is mushroomed.
I just took my car in for warranty problems and they said my strut towers are mushroomed (which I already knew) and they said if I drive it like that the strut can go right thru the hood! Is it really that bad of a problem or are they scaring me.
Also, I plan on getting the m7 strut brace. What exactly is involved with putting one in. Is it just a matter of literally hammering the piss out of them till there flat? Or do I have to remove the struts and all that? MINI wants over $1000 to fix. $200 sounds alot better for a fix and added handling.
I see you are online, hold on and I will type you a response since there is nothing worse than the dreaded shrooms.
Can somebody help me here? I can't tell what is wrong with that picture AT ALL. My car is cracked on both sides but how can you tell if they are "mushroomed", especially with that picture. I thought the top of the strut was supposed to poke up from that view if it is mushroomed.
I just took my car in for warranty problems and they said my strut towers are mushroomed (which I already knew) and they said if I drive it like that the strut can go right thru the hood! Is it really that bad of a problem or are they scaring me.
Also, I plan on getting the m7 strut brace. What exactly is involved with putting one in. Is it just a matter of literally hammering the piss out of them till there flat? Or do I have to remove the struts and all that? MINI wants over $1000 to fix. $200 sounds alot better for a fix and added handling.
Have to say those are great pics of a shroomed MINI. Those pics are some of the best I have seen.
Warning: Keep in mind I am no expert, but check around NAM for my detailed posts on shrooms, the fix and other stuff. I posted my opinion in various threads, but it's just my NON-EXPERT opinion, formulated after spending about 20 hours reading all the posts and trying out the M7 plates, but settling on installing the MINI Madness steel plates (which you should do, only $100).
(Cont.)
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Last edited by MichaelSF : 05-01-2009 at 01:54 PM.
Can somebody help me here? I can't tell what is wrong with that picture AT ALL...
I don't know what you mean by "cracked." Can't help you there if the strut mount surfaces are cracked all the way through the metal. But I suspect that is not what you mean. In any event, maybe that's a weld job if the metal has cracks that compromise the integrity of the metal. But I don't think that is your problem.
As shrooms go, the ones in the pics you posted don't look that bad. The one side appears worse than the other, but I suspect they can be fixed with the Mini Madness plates. In any event, I'd try the plates before doing anything else.
From all that I have read, and regardless of how your look, DO NOT HAMMER THE METAL BACK INTO SHAPE!!! Experts on here say that is plain stupid. It weakens the metal. In my non-expert opinion, that makes sense.
Think about it, the metal has been weakened once by getting the shrooms, then it would be "shocked" again by hammering the metal back into proper form. That makes no sense. While hammering may get that surface mounts looking nice again, inside the metal is like mush.
Old Rick, a member on here, AND Mini Madness, say that installing the Mini Madness steel plates (and tightening the nuts) will gently bend the metal back into shape. This makes a lot of sense rather than hammering the heck out of the metal with a 2 x 4 and mallet.
After the plates are installed if it were me I would switch to regular sized tires, etc. so to give you the cushioning your struts need.
By the way, I did not have shrooms, but I installed the MM plates. While I still drive with caution (San Francisco has been declared to have the worst roads in the nation), the MM plates make me feel a lot better.
As the the M7 brace, why do you want that? If it's to fix or prevent shrooms, it is not for that purpose. It's to make the body more rigid. It installs on the strut mount bolts, which would be a problem for your MINI if the bolts are not at 90 degrees, which they need to be to install the brace.
Also, between the M7 or Craven top-mount plates and the Mini Madness steel plates (that mount UNDER the strut mount surface you see in your picture) I would go with the MM plates. Just my opinion. Many people swear by the top-mount plates, but I think they are simply saying so because they looks nice, look like they protect the mount areas, and appear impressive.
But read Old Rick's and my posts on the comparison. It's a heated debate between many on NAM, but from an engineering standpoint it makes sense to have sold steel plates attached to the strut rather than to have a plate sitting on top of the fender well (strut mount surface, where those nuts are visible.)
I have attached the pics you posted with my explanation as to what they indicate.
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Last edited by MichaelSF : 05-01-2009 at 01:58 PM.
I don't know what you mean by "cracked." Can't help you there if the strut mount surfaces are cracked all the way through the metal. But I suspect that is not what you mean. In any event, maybe that's a weld job if the metal has cracks that compromise the integrity of the metal. But I don't think that is your problem.
As shrooms go, yours don't look that bad. The one side appears worse than the other, but I suspect they can be fixed with the Mini Madness plates. In any event, I'd try the plates before doing anything else.
From all that I have read, DO NOT HAMMER THE METAL BACK INTO SHAPE!!! Experts on here say that is plain stupid. It weakens the metal.
In my non-expert opinion, that makes sense. Think about it, the metal has been weakened once by getting the shrooms, then it would be "shocked" again by hammering the metal back into proper form. That makes no sense. While hammering may get that surface mounts looking nice again, inside the metal is like mush.
Old Rick, a member on here, AND Mini Madness, says that installing the Mini Madness steel plates (and tightening the nuts) will gently bend the metal back into shape. This makes a lot of sense rather than hammering the heck out of the metal with a 2 x 4 and mallet.
After the plates are installed if it were me I would switch to regular sized tires, etc. so to give you the cushioning your struts need.
But go with the steel plates from MM. From the looks of things it will fix your shrooms.
By the way, I did not have shrooms, but I installed the MM plates. While I still drive with caution (San Francisco has been declared to have the worst roads in the nation), the MM plates make me feel a lot better.
As the the M7 brace, why do you want that? If it's to fix or prevent shrooms, it is not for that purpose. It's to make the body more rigid. It installs on the strut mount bolts, which would be a problem for your MINI since the bolts are not at 90 degrees, which they need to be to install the brace.
Also, between the M7 or Craven top-mount plates and the Mini Madness steel plates (that mount UNDER the strut mount surface you see in your picture) I would go with the MM plates. Just my opinion. Many people swear by the top-mount plates, but I think they are simply saying so because they looks nice and seem impressive.
But read Old Rick's and my posts on the comparison. It's a heated debate, but from an engineering standpoint it makes sense to have sold steel plates attached to the strut rather than to have a plate sitting on top of the fender well (strut mount surface, where those nuts are visible.)
I have attached your pics with my explanation as to what they indicate.
Thanks alot man. That pic isnt of my car, it was from a quote. but I understand it better. About the mini madness plates, I can just install them and not have to hammer anything and it will go back down over time? That sounds pretty good to me. I'm guessing if I get the m7 tuning strut plates it will do the same? these:http://www.m7tuning.com/parts/produc...products_id=30
Thanks alot man. That pic isnt of my car, it was from a quote. but I understand it better. About the mini madness plates, I can just install them and not have to hammer anything and it will go back down over time? That sounds pretty good to me. I'm guessing if I get the m7 tuning strut plates it will do the same? these:http://www.m7tuning.com/parts/produc...products_id=30
The M7 or other "top-mount" plates, that simply bolt on to the fender well do NOT work as well (if at all) as the MM plates to straigten or reform the strut mount surface. I have not read where anyone else has commented on the M7 plates being able to do that.
The MM plates are thinner and mount inside the fender well, so there is more bolt with which to attach the nut, even if the bolt is in an angle.
Yes, the MM plates simply slide into place (they send you install instructions). There is no hammering.
But see my detailed post. It took me and a friend three hours to do the install because I am not mechanical at all when working on cars. But now that I know how to do it, I could probably do it in about 1.5 hours.
My friend was not doing much, he was looking in from the top of the fender well and telling me when things were lined up. Guess he was there for moral support too.
But installing them is a really basic task. It's just that doing it once (and never again if i don't get another MINI) is like anything else, the first time takes longer.
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Last edited by MichaelSF : 05-01-2009 at 01:59 PM.
Friend comes over today. '06 MCS - 1500 miles, 17" dunlop run-flats. Stock suspension. Driver's strut tower had a decent crease/mushroom - especially for such low mileage. Passenger side was very slightly out of shape.
Installed an M7 STB with an performed the bonnet pad back-side-ectomy.
Comparing these strut towers those on to my daughter's TOYota Camry, the MINI's strut towers look like they belong on a toy .
2005 DS/B MCS w/LSD, MMC #455, DSOC #113
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