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I'm so glad I checked this thread! My 07s has the mini flu, I think! the emissions light is on and I have a rough idle after false or no starts. it's weird this happens now when I move to a warmer climate!!! I'm going to bring my mini in and have them check the O rings and the PCV valve. Is the ECU reset something I can do myself? I'd like to learn whatever I can!
Thanks for all the great posts, hopefully the flu passes soon.
Wow, this has been happening for SIX YEARS!? I have this problem on a brand new 2010 Clubman S. How could they not have solved the problem after so many years?
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2010 Clubman S - British Racing Green/Black roof; 6-Speed manual; Sports Package; Premium Package; Hot Chocolate Interior/cloth & leather seats; 17" web spoke rims w/ Dunlop SP Signature Sport 205/45R17 non-run flats; Koni FSD shocks/struts; H-sport 19mm rear sway bar; Madness Poly front control arm bushings; Carbotech Bobcat brake pads; Velocity Throttle Booster; Robin Casady shift knob
The dealer claims the intake manifold had lots of carbon build up. The cleaned the manifold. We got the car back and it ran perfectly. Haven't been able to confirm it is fixed now because all the snow in the Northeast has had the Mini sitting.
I have a 2008 R56 auto with only 7k miles on it which starting doing the stumble this second winter of ownership.
It started with erratic idle at start up. Then the car would stumble and stall out shortly after start up and driving (after stopping at stop sign or red light). The car also was not making good heat. This winter has been very cold in the Northeast.
Took the car in for service. On the way over the car started backfiring like crazy.
Dealer replaced the High Pressure Fuel pump which was failing and causing the misfire on all cylinders. Dealer also replaced the Thermostat which was leaking causing the heat issue.
Car ran perfectly after these fixes .... for two days. Now the stumble is problem is back. This is a ridiculous problem for a car with so few miles. It is also dangerous when trying to merge into traffic after just having started the car and having it dying at a stop sign. Going back to the dealer will update post with what additional parts the dealer replaces.
Last edited by halcyoncloud; 02-12-2010 at 11:42 AM.
HI
This was my experience with same problem and below was my reply back in June -09.
Had similar issues with my 07 MC S in extreme cold weather. Recently took it to Knauz mini, chicago and they have identified the problem code as
SIM 6100811( some thing written as Mixture adaptation too lean), SIM 2516565 (some problem with adjusting interlock cable) and perfomed update as per SIM120507 and SIM 240108 respectively.
Have to wait and see till next winter to see if this has really solved the problem.
Now it is next winter and problem remains same. Nothing different. I don't start driving until engine is warm enough. Iam glad i leased this car instead of buying it. It's a shame on BMW who couldn't figure out the solution in 6 years.
Somebody please let everyone know if there is a confirmed solution for this.
I did everything mentioned in this thread so far but nothing works out. Can't live with a car that embarasses me every winter like this.
My 07 MCS has been dong this for about a month now. I sent it to International MINI in Milawukee, WI last week and they replaced the HPFP under warranty. The replacement HPFP did not fix the problem and the car still stumbles/stalls in the morning. It is back at International MINI right now and yesterday they did a fuel system bleed down test (whatever that is) to determine where the fuel system is losing pressure. They also said they were going to do a complete overhaul of the ECU to make sure that was not the problem either. I have not heard anything back from them yet. I will let you know when I do. I have my fingers crossed.
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2007 Chili Red/White MCS 6 speed, Premium, Sport, Cold Weather, 17" Web Spoke wheels, Hankook Ventus v12 evo k110 (summer), Bridgestone Blizzak LM-60 RFT (winter) on 17" Sport Edition F7
My 07 MCS has been dong this for about a month now. I sent it to International MINI in Milawukee, WI last week and they replaced the HPFP under warranty. The replacement HPFP did not fix the problem and the car still stumbles/stalls in the morning. It is back at International MINI right now and yesterday they did a fuel system bleed down test (whatever that is) to determine where the fuel system is losing pressure. They also said they were going to do a complete overhaul of the ECU to make sure that was not the problem either. I have not heard anything back from them yet. I will let you know when I do. I have my fingers crossed.
As said previously....you might find it more useful to post in the GEN2 forum....for the turbo cars!! I do hope that the problem is solved....many gen2 cars do have a intake icing issue in cold weather...much more info in gen2 forums!
This has become like a MINI flu. Alot of people on NEMINI.org have been complaining about this and well..there hasn't been one dealer yet to fix this issue. The problem mainly occurs after the car has been sitting for a long time and when you go to start it, it starts to choke up and stall. If you are having this issue please post about it. I'd like to take this thread and forward it to MINIUSA directly.
I originally thought it was just the 2005 models but my friend with a 2003 is now having the same issue aswell.
Also, can a moderator please sticky this if possible. Thank you!
Just so everyone knows, I tried working with mini usa and they pretty much nicely told me to deal with the dealerships, they cant do anything. I have an moded 05 Mini Cooper S and my car used to stall after overnight sit. It went away once I upgraded the fuel injectors to the JCW 380cc, but on cold mornings I have to let the engin warm up for 1 min. or it will want to stall but much better than the girlfriends stock 05 Mini Cooper S. This thing will stall the first time then on every second try the car will start perfect and run like nothing happen, I am starting to think its the pressure reg. and we use lucas regulary on my car and started with hers. Know hers only stalls once and awhile but still struggles to get started on that first turn of the key. The dealership said its the gas she uses, but we get it from the same place and the same octane. I am determind to figuer this out bc of this and other major issues she had in the past, She hates this car, but I am trying to convince her bc I love mine.
Just so everyone knows, I tried working with mini usa and they pretty much nicely told me to deal with the dealerships, they cant do anything. I have an moded 05 Mini Cooper S and my car used to stall after overnight sit. It went away once I upgraded the fuel injectors to the JCW 380cc, but on cold mornings I have to let the engin warm up for 1 min. or it will want to stall but much better than the girlfriends stock 05 Mini Cooper S. This thing will stall the first time then on every second try the car will start perfect and run like nothing happen, I am starting to think its the pressure reg. and we use lucas regulary on my car and started with hers. Know hers only stalls once and awhile but still struggles to get started on that first turn of the key. The dealership said its the gas she uses, but we get it from the same place and the same octane. I am determind to figuer this out bc of this and other major issues she had in the past, She hates this car, but I am trying to convince her bc I love mine.
I have a 2002 MCS that has had the "does not start first time" issue since I bought it just over 3 years ago. I have tried different fuel makes and octane ratings and there has been no difference.
I too think it might be a fuel regulator problem. I have a new one sitting on a shelf waiting to be fitted and I will post again after I fit it. BTW, the regulator is a relatively cheap component (the cheapest component in the fuel system) so it's probably worth trying before investigating further.
Dave, we have the problem on our '03 MCS and found that we can avoid it by first turning the ignition on and listening while the fuel pump pressurizes the system (or at least I think that's what's happening). It takes no more than a couple of seconds. Once you hear the fuel pump shut off, continue turning the key so the starter engages. We experienced the problem for many years, but once we discovered the above procedure, we have never again experienced the problem.
I have a 2002 MCS that has had the "does not start first time" issue since I bought it just over 3 years ago. I have tried different fuel makes and octane ratings and there has been no difference.
I too think it might be a fuel regulator problem. I have a new one sitting on a shelf waiting to be fitted and I will post again after I fit it. BTW, the regulator is a relatively cheap component (the cheapest component in the fuel system) so it's probably worth trying before investigating further.
Cheers,
Dave
If you are going through all the trouble to replace the FPR, it would be a good idea to replace your injector's O rings. They are 33 dollars for a complete set.
I had same problems at 77K miles. But after replacing those components no more cold start issues EVER.
And it sort of makes sense if you think about it. Sucking in too much air through worn or broken O rings will cause all of the issues described so far creating a poor air/fuel mix and compression for proper combustion. And all the aids employed by MINI owners thus far to remedy this cold start issue such as: adding octane booster, buying high grade fuel, and no issues when car is warmed up ( O rings expand when heated ) just makes that air mix better.
And since I replaced my O-rings/FPR for the injectors in my case immediately worked for me, I really feel this is the fix. It took me a few hours to do. When doing the FPR, just make sure the retaining clip is properly installed securing the FPR into the aluminum bell housing on the fuel rail. It's sorta tricky getting both end it in the slots. I suppose you could take a quick snap shot of the FPR as it was installed from the factory to make sure you have re-installed it in the same manner some hrs later.
BTW: The FPR comes with two O-rings too and beside the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter, these rubber O rings are sandwiched between the two hottest parts of the engine, the upper cylinder head and the intercooler.
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2003 R53 - DS - 135K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
Dave, we have the problem on our '03 MCS and found that we can avoid it by first turning the ignition on and listening while the fuel pump pressurizes the system (or at least I think that's what's happening). It takes no more than a couple of seconds. Once you hear the fuel pump shut off, continue turning the key so the starter engages. We experienced the problem for many years, but once we discovered the above procedure, we have never again experienced the problem.
Thanks,
When I first got the car I tried this and other suggestions, but it didn't seem to work in my case. Maybe I'll try it again. I've sort of got used to the what was once annoying starting procedure.
Dave, we have the problem on our '03 MCS and found that we can avoid it by first turning the ignition on and listening while the fuel pump pressurizes the system (or at least I think that's what's happening). It takes no more than a couple of seconds. Once you hear the fuel pump shut off, continue turning the key so the starter engages. We experienced the problem for many years, but once we discovered the above procedure, we have never again experienced the problem.
I have read elsewhere that the computer system does a self-diagnostic, and that you should wait until the low-fuel indicator on the fuel gauge goes out before cranking the engine, or you might start having electrical weirdness happen.
What I do is plug in the key and turn it, then put my seat belt on. Takes no extra time that way, and if the fuel pump needs to do its thing first, that happens without me even having to think about it....
C ya,
Dutch
__________________ Oh, let me have just a little bit of peril? Mods list: Blue Sharpie Mod and many others....
I have read elsewhere that the computer system does a self-diagnostic, and that you should wait until the low-fuel indicator on the fuel gauge goes out before cranking the engine, or you might start having electrical weirdness happen.
What I do is plug in the key and turn it, then put my seat belt on. Takes no extra time that way, and if the fuel pump needs to do its thing first, that happens without me even having to think about it....
C ya,
Dutch
Thanks Dutch,
I'll try that (wait till self diagnostic warning lights go out)
Those prestart proceedures never worked for most and is only symptomatic of what I have posted before. Fuel pressure drop in the system while MINI is parked overnight.
For me. I am at 91K+ miles and it has been over 10K since I replaced my injector O rings and FPR....
So far the cold start stumble and stall symptoms have not returned.......................
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2003 R53 - DS - 135K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
i have an automatic and had a weird thing happen tonight. I was backing up in a parking space ( i dont like pulling to far forward cause other cars cant see me
) turn off the car and thought i was not far enough back, so i restarted the car and it felt like it stalled, of the engine was flooded. I didnt think this was possible in the automatic. This is the only time it happened. I think maybe i started it too quickly after turning it off, but anyone have any suggestions?
I agree, pre-start procedure didn't work fo me either. I'm sure I tried something similar to Dutch's suggestion before, with the same result...no change.
I wish I searched the forums for this problem before posting it as a new thread. Still new to this forum thing so please forgive my newbie-ness!!
My '07 Cooper S started doing this to me recently. On Saturday I tried starting it after it had sat for a few days. Apparently my boyfriend experienced the same issue a week prior (I used my car the entire week, driving about 60 miles a day). I thought maybe it's my battery starting to go (that happened to be the problem with my '04 MCS. My service advisor replaced the battery and never had an issue again). I have since heard that it could be a fuel injector problem. I'm making a list of all of the possible things it COULD be so when I take it next week (first available appointment with a loaner car.
At least I'm currently unemployed so I don't NEED to drive anywhere this week) I can be prepared. I don't THINK they are going to try to pull a fast one on me because I'm young and female, but I did encounter that scenario a few years ago and had to really fight with the service adviser and mechanic to fix my AC (luckily I got a list of different tests they should have done from my main service adviser back home which made this other dealership actually do their job).
Here's to hoping it can be fixed... And yay for still having a little time left on my warranty!
I was driving to a car meet today and I noticed my car started idling wierd if i let it sit for a while, really bad idle...
kept going on and then once the cars rpms dropped to like 300 and came back upp... almost stalled.
I dont want to read 18 pages of this bull ****.. whats the fix? Ive got my car tuned and that hasnt done anything.
And please dont say the fix is to turn the car on twice or give it some gas, if theres an issue with the car there are no workarounds and I want the real solution.
__________________ 2003 R53 - WMW 17% Pulley - Alta CAI - Borla Street Exhaust - RMW REMAP - 190WHP-180TQ DYNOJET
I was driving to a car meet today and I noticed my car started idling wierd if i let it sit for a while, really bad idle...
kept going on and then once the cars rpms dropped to like 300 and came back upp... almost stalled.
I dont want to read 18 pages of this bull ****.. whats the fix? Ive got my car tuned and that hasnt done anything.
And please dont say the fix is to turn the car on twice or give it some gas, if theres an issue with the car there are no workarounds and I want the real solution.
It sounds like the yo-yo thread may be more useful to you than this cold start thread. I haven't read in depth, but it sounds like the common culprits for the yo-yo are the ECU or the bypass valve. (More informed motorers please chime in!)
Back to the original topic....
I've noticed that my cold-start problems are back. I'm dithering as to how high of a priority it is to have fixed.
On my morning commute I come to an intersection only a couple of yards from my house; I haven't stalled out completely, but there's definitely a hesitation and lack of power that's concerning. (This intersection is on a blind hill and I'm nervous that I'll get t-boned one of these days. Fortunately traffic is typically pretty light when I leave the house in the morning.)
Of course once I'm through this particular intersection the fuel pressure (presumably) has had a chance to build, and the rest of the drive is smooth sailing....
Has anyone had their FPR replaced under warranty? I still have another year/~45,000 miles left on mine, but it's a hike to get down to the dealer and I'd likely have to leave the car overnight for them to officially diagnose the problem.
I just wish I'd been thinking of all of this while I had my car in at the Local MINI Guru for an oil change the other day!
FWIW -- I thought the trick of giving the fuel pump time to wake up was working for a little while, but no longer....
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| 2oo5 MCSa | Born: o5-1o-o5 | Adopted: o6-22-o9 @ 49,920 miles | Hybrid Induction "Dave.F" modified airbox | Koni FSDs | CravenSpeed STDs | MINI cabrio braces | 16" R1o2 S-Winders/15" R81 Imolas | more to come? |
And please dont say the fix is to turn the car on twice or give it some gas, if theres an issue with the car there are no workarounds and I want the real solution.
roflmao, dont want much do ya. Maybe if you hold your breath someone will give up the secret fix. I have subscribed to this thread and haven't seen it yet...but you're more than happy to try other posts to try and cajole the secret out. But I guess sisnce it isn't out, there is no real solution.
Paul
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Any car is only as fast as the driver. All the HP in the world can't change that.
Do you think it would be enough to just replace the o-rings on the FPR, or is it likely the FPR itself would need replacing? (Or would it be just as easy -- if a bit more expensive -- just to replace the FPR if one's going to muck around with the o-rings anyways.)
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| 2oo5 MCSa | Born: o5-1o-o5 | Adopted: o6-22-o9 @ 49,920 miles | Hybrid Induction "Dave.F" modified airbox | Koni FSDs | CravenSpeed STDs | MINI cabrio braces | 16" R1o2 S-Winders/15" R81 Imolas | more to come? |
Ok guys...
Before I post a new thread, I thought I would post here, although based on the number of posts, it seems I'm a little late to the party.
I have a new/used 05 MCS that I recently bought with 6k miles on it, and I'm up to 11k at this point. It doesn't really stall, but at times it HESITATES like crazy, sometimes at the worst possible time, like when I need to merge into fast moving traffic...really pisses me off. Any suggestions? I've seen MINI sites like outmotoring sell a fix to the throttle body (looks like a spring?) that says fixes this problem....anyone familiar?
I didn't want to go through this entire thread to see if there are posts on my problem, but it looks like its primarily concerning the stalling issue, which doesn't happen to me (yet!) Thanks folks.
Ok guys...
Before I post a new thread, I thought I would post here, although based on the number of posts, it seems I'm a little late to the party.
I have a new/used 05 MCS that I recently bought with 6k miles on it, and I'm up to 11k at this point. It doesn't really stall, but at times it HESITATES like crazy, sometimes at the worst possible time, like when I need to merge into fast moving traffic...really pisses me off. Any suggestions? I've seen MINI sites like outmotoring sell a fix to the throttle body (looks like a spring?) that says fixes this problem....anyone familiar?
I didn't want to go through this entire thread to see if there are posts on my problem, but it looks like its primarily concerning the stalling issue, which doesn't happen to me (yet!) Thanks folks.
Sounds to me like your bypass valve (that thing that looks like a little throttle body with a vacuum diaphragm on the side of it) has a weak or broken spring. Check out my post on this thread for info on "VGS", a relatively cheap way to fix it up until you can get a new bypass valve.
I had VGS working on mine until I found a deal I couldn't pass up on a Detroit Tuned replacement unit.
HTH!
C ya,
Dutch
__________________ Oh, let me have just a little bit of peril? Mods list: Blue Sharpie Mod and many others....
