Is your car stalling upon starting? - Page 26

call it spade · #**626** 10-26-2009, 06:52 PM

R53's don't have MAF's.. They run on MAP sensors and that is not your problem.
MINI recommends 91+ octane. I would suggest 93 octane though. It really is night and day.
Go get your codes checked, write them down and clear then. You can drive with the light on. Fix the codes that came up. If the light comes on again wait a week and go check the codes again. If you are getting the same codes then you have a larger problem and may have to have that part replaced.

thecigarman · #**627** 10-26-2009, 07:36 PM

OK. I did drive it about 80-90 miles to burn some gas. The car ran perfectly when it was warm for just a few minutes and after sitting 3 hours started right up.

I stopped at PepBoys and waited and hour and 10 minutes to get the codes checked and cleared but when they got it hooked up they discovered they did not have the adapter for the MCS, so I went home unhappy.

I got some techron fuel additive and put it in when I got home. I will fill the tank tomorrow am with 93 octane (that is what I always use).

Thanks for the info, now I understand why I could not find a MAF sensor :-)
I'll follow your suggestions.

I am hoping that it was bad gas an then sitting so that the alcohol absorbed water.

Now I have to find someone else that can check and clear the codes tomorrow.

call it spade · #**628** 10-26-2009, 08:09 PM

Also try seafoam. It works amazing and cleans out your motor! It'll definitely make your car more responsive.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html

ZippyNH · #**629** 10-26-2009, 08:30 PM

Resetting your ECU seems to help many people....and in my area the problem seems to be seasonal....every time there is the switch to/from winter/summer fuel, it is like it takes the ECU a few weeks to adjust to the new higher/lower vapor pressure fuel, and the fact that not all stations switch at the same time does not help. We jokingly call it the MINI flu...since it seems to go away in a week or two.
As a side note....I have not had ANY problems since installing JCW injectors.

thecigarman · #**630** 10-27-2009, 01:17 PM

I started this am and it was running a bit rough on the start with some accellerator hesitation but less than yesterday--no black vapor fronm the exhaust. Warmed up it ran perfectly.

Refilled the tank with 9.6 gallons of 93 octane so I got a good mix with the Textron additive I put in last nite.

I just got back from a different PepBoys and they used a handheld scanner to check the codes. It returned several P0301 and P0302 codes- Misfire of cylinder 1 and 2 respectively.

More spirited driving to clean things out.

I have not pulled any plugs ( I expect little more than indications that I've been running rich at startup right now) but bought some dielectric grease and so I'll pull the wires (they are new as are the plugs, replaced when I got the Jan-tune) an make certain there is a good connection.

Any other ideas?

call it spade · #**631** 10-27-2009, 01:56 PM

I was talking to a friend and we came to the conclusion that it could be fouled injectors. Like Zippy said, he had no problems when switching injectors.

thecigarman · #**632** 10-27-2009, 03:14 PM

Will the Techron take care of that? Or is there something else to use?

ZippyNH · #**633** 10-27-2009, 03:47 PM

One thing to remember....have you changed your spark plugs lately? With the JCW, you do it basicly once per year if I remember right. When you put a pulley on an S, I think the same should be done. If you are getting misfires during start, you might be overdue for a plugs swap...especialy if you have done a pulley....unless you have irridum plugs that is.
Also remember to tourqe the plugs, and some say to use locktite to prevent them from blowing out.

ZippyNH · #**634** 10-27-2009, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by call it spade

I was talking to a friend and we came to the conclusion that it could be fouled injectors. Like Zippy said, he had no problems when switching injectors.

My gut tells me the new injectors solved the problem in part because they can flow more fuel, which helps compensate for the higher fuel flow volume needed when running e10. While the change is not as drastic as when you convert a MINI to run on E85, it seems to me the more ethonal you run, the more capicity to inject fuel you need, and since almost all of the cold start issues that are the meat and patotes of this thread have appeared since the switch to e-10, and many who can still get fuel without ethonal suddenly have no problems...I think I may be onto something.
Any ideas?

thecigarman · #**635** 10-29-2009, 09:28 AM

Update

I have not had time to get out for another long spin but each day I have started the car and let it run for about 15 minutes each day. The car now sarts immediately, bu still has the lag or hesitation when the accellerator is depressed--the car is idling at about 1200 rpm and when the accellerator is depressit it drops to about 800 and then goes up. After about 5 minutes there is no hesitation at all.

It appears that the Techron and fresh fuel has helped but not cured.

The plugs are BRISK 12S and have about 4K on them. They a were replaced in March of this year. Wires were also replaced at that time when I had the 15% pulley installed.

TimL · #**636** 10-29-2009, 11:15 AM

I'm not sure if this is precisely the same issue, but for a while I was having intermittent issues with cold-start hesitation -- and almost stalling -- in my '05 MCSa, which I've owned for just over 4 months.

I had the PCV valve replaced about a week and half ago, and the car seems to run much more smoothly, and I haven't had any issues with hesitation or stalling since (knock on wood!).

I can't be entirely sure other factors weren't involved, but it did seem like the PCV valve replacement helped. If so, it's a pretty cheap fix.

thecigarman · #**637** 10-29-2009, 11:36 AM

I have one on the way from Morristown MINI. I hope you are correct, thanks.

call it spade · #**638** 10-29-2009, 11:48 AM

Also check your throttle body sensor/plug and see if it's connected completely.

ZippyNH · #**639** 10-29-2009, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimL

I'm not sure if this is precisely the same issue, but for a while I was having intermittent issues with cold-start hesitation -- and almost stalling -- in my '05 MCSa, which I've owned for just over 4 months.

I had the PCV valve replaced about a week and half ago, and the car seems to run much more smoothly, and I haven't had any issues with hesitation or stalling since (knock on wood!).

I can't be entirely sure other factors weren't involved, but it did seem like the PCV valve replacement helped. If so, it's a pretty cheap fix.

Yet another good, but often overlooked basic mataince item!! Good reminder. Mine was also done about a month or so ago.

thecigarman · #**640** 10-30-2009, 09:41 AM

I just called Morristown MINI and apparently the PCV was not sent out and they told me I will get it tomorrow
:-(

I checked the sensor plug and it is fine. Yesterday, BTW, I reset the ECU.

When I did my daily Google search for info I added Throttle body Sensor to one of the searches and came upon this thread post #6 by agoodsign and did it

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ttle-body.html

To save you looking

"There are apparently two potentiometers in the TPS system that need to be in sync with each other, on reads somthing like 1-7 volts and the other 7-1 volts in reverse (I can;t remember the exact voltage), they need to be balanced, it's a fail-safe system to make sure the ECU knows where the throttle position is. Somehow they got out of sync in the car and we just had to find a simple reset procedure for it... Turn the key to the 1 position, hold the gas pedal down wide open for 25 seconds, let off completely for 10 seconds, and start the car and let it run for a while, it'll idle rough at first but eventually it evened out."

The car did start up and idle rough and I hit the accellerator a couple of times and got the hesitation but a bit less. I got out and checked under the hood to look and listen for possible vacuum or other leak--nothing unusual.

When I got in the idle had evened out and no hesitation when I hit the pedal. Now, the time was shorter than it was before but I won't really know if it helped til the car sits overnight and I get a true cold start.

thecigarman · #**641** 10-31-2009, 04:33 PM

I got the PCV valve and put it on.

Now the car won't start at all. It turns over but does not fire. It mkes a chugging sound as it turnsover but no fire--NADA.

I'm going to let it sit and see if that helps but it looks like Sparky will have to take a trip to the garage on Monday.

thecigarman · #**642** 11-01-2009, 10:59 AM

Update

Before I tried starting it I checked my OCC. It has been on for 4 months and was empty. I removed it (One OCC line was to the Gray LIne and the other to the PCV valve-I connected the Gray back to the PCV)

The car started. It ran very rough and when I stepped on the accelerator it stalled. I restarted, let it go and it ran rough, idle dipped and the check engine light went on. I let it run for a few minutes and shut it off and restarted. Check light still flashing and it gradually smoothed out and ran fine.

I don't have a sparkplug wrench that will reach the MINI's plugs to pull them so I'll just have to have it checked at the garage this week.

I bought a OBDII but it has not arrived yet, but I suspect the codes are misses, as before.

**-=gRay rAvEn=-** · #**643** 11-01-2009, 12:36 PM

CM,

1) You said the MINI was sitting for a while and was fine before hand, Any chances some little animal made it's new home in your intake air box and possibly had a meal or two of your spark plug wires ? Woudnt be the first time.......check for signs of mice.

2) Get the long socket for the plugs, got mine from Mossmini I think. Pull them and give them a check for color ect. I have been using the NGK Iridiums and not even going one step colder with mine I am AOK with JCW Box, 17% scp and JCW injectors. Have about 8k miles on them and no ping.

3) Did you get any codes for O2 sensors. The one before the cat usually goes first and is the one we are most concerned about, the post cat O2 sensor monitors the health of the cat.

Have to head out but this is all I can think of right now, get bk later tonight.

Dave

thecigarman · #**644** 11-02-2009, 08:43 AM

EDIT:
last night Pulled wires and some white residue, put on some di-electric grease and made sure connections were tight. Started right up but the same hestation and near stall when accellerator is depressed. In about 2 minutes it warmed up and ran fine.

Today I just read the codes--4 present: NA, P0303, P0303 P, P0301 P (Misfires on Cylinder 1 & 3) I/M test I/M on; MISFIRE, FUEL, CAT, O2S --all ready; CCM & EVAP-- not ready; HCM, 2AIR, AC, H2OS & EGR-- N/A

I got a set of NGK Iridium (BRKR7EIX-11) plugs.

I've had the flu/cold the last couple of days and fter reading some fo the threads about people blowing plugs by not torquing them correctly and since I don't have a torque wrench available and since I'm irritable with the flu/cold the past few days I'm taking it to the garage. I have an extenede warranty and if there is anything wrong (I'm sure they will find something) it should be covered.

Feedback would be appreciated even if someone is going to tell me I just about had this fixed

thecigarman · #**645** 11-05-2009, 11:19 AM

Update:

In the pm, the car would not start (altough it did in the am). I tried 3 times at half hour intervals with no luck, so I pulled the plugs and replaced them with the NGK plugs. No torque wrench so I put them in snugly. Went in washed my hands and it started immediately.

The hesitation was still there but it was ready to go in under 2 minutes.

I examined the plugs and they were black with soot but appeared OK. I put them in the boxes and numbered them for the mechanic to look at.

Car ran like a champ and so I wnet to the garage. They called me and asked me questions about when things were done to it told me they read the same codes that I saw before and they are thinking wires.

I suggested coil (original OEM is in the car). They will call me later...

thecigarman · #**646** 11-07-2009, 06:24 AM

They ran diagnostics again and seemed to think it was electrical and wanted to start replacing the wires. At the suggestion of Grey Raven I called Greasy's Garage in Mass. and had a good conversation with one of the guys there.

He seemed to believe that it is a fuel pressure issue due to a bad regulator (when car is cold, fuel pressure is too low and it takes a bit for the pressure to build up, so if you hit the accellerator the pressure is still low and the engine goes into a stall condition. What I was interpreting as better as it warmed up was actually more that the fuel presssure now got to the normal range).

He suggested that the pressure be guaged when cold but also that when cold starting to turn on the ignition and hold the pedal to the floor for 5 seconds to see if the stall condition ends sooner (the 5 seconds allows the pressure to build w/o bleeding it off with the engine consumption). Maybe one of you with the stall condition can try this.

I hope that I interpreted his instructions correctly here.

In any case it will be Monday before the garage can test the fuel pressure. I'll just drive the Civic and appreciete my MINI more with each mile

thecigarman · #**647** 11-15-2009, 09:35 AM

MINI of Towson finsihed with that car and could not find anything wrong. Fuel pressure was 51 at start and 41 at idle, compression was good. They did not even have a cold start problem either day. I as wondering if there was something that that inadertantly did when they ran diagnostics and checked the compression and pressure, or if it was bad gas.

I'll get it back Monday and we'll see if it is gone.

**-=gRay rAvEn=-** · #**648** 12-24-2009, 04:18 PM

My MINI always had the "MINI flu" for last two years......Upon first start up of the day, the engine would chug out. Upon second attempt to start it turned over fine. It would come every Spring about May, and go away the end of October. Temps when most noticible was when it ranged from 55 to 65 degrees outside as according to my on board computer. I changed gas stations, put fuel additive in, but there was no permanent fix. Until......

I replaced the following items at 77K miles........

1) Fuel injectors were upgraded to 380's.
2) Fuel Pressure Regulator ( attached to fuel rail - made sense to replace since I was in there anyways doing the injectors )

Both of these components have small rubber O rings.....All of them were brittle and IMO would not be working properly to either seal the injectors or in the case of the Fuel pressure Regulator, maintaining proper start up pressure in the fuel rail.

Which one of these was the fix ? I can't say for sure, you decide. But my MINI starts up in the first milli-second of the turn of the key - like it was brand new from the factory.

I ran Fuel Injected VW's for years before buying this MINI, and I was always changing the injector O rings at about 40K miles due to poor idle and starting problems.

So, my best "guess" would be these O rings for anyone experiencing the " MINI Flu".

Good luck.

R56 Wi MINI · #**649** 12-30-2009, 06:11 PM

I have a 2007 MCS, 6 speed, 32k miles. I bought it about a week and a half ago. This happened to me last night and then again this morning.

Last night (20 degrees)when leaving work I started the car and as i was messing around trying to get my iPhone plugged into the aux jack the car stalled. I restarted it and it ran extremely rough for 2-3 min then ran fine as it warmed up.

Then this morning (25 degrees) I went to start the car to let it warm up. I started it and listened to it idle for about a minute, blipping the throttle a few times. Went back inside and when i came back out 5 minutes later the car had stalled and was off. Again I restarted and it ran rough for 2-3 min and then ran fine again after it had a chance to warm up.

I filled up with gas 2 nights ago so i might have just gotten bad gas because i did not have this problem until this tank of gas. I have only filled up twice since purcahse. I will fill up at another station when this tank is gone and see if I still have this problem.

ZippyNH · #**650** 12-30-2009, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R56 Wi MINI

I have a 2007 MCS, 6 speed, 32k miles. I bought it about a week and a half ago. This happened to me last night and then again this morning.

Last night (20 degrees)when leaving work I started the car and as i was messing around trying to get my iPhone plugged into the aux jack the car stalled. I restarted it and it ran extremely rough for 2-3 min then ran fine as it warmed up.

Then this morning (25 degrees) I went to start the car to let it warm up. I started it and listened to it idle for about a minute, blipping the throttle a few times. Went back inside and when i came back out 5 minutes later the car had stalled and was off. Again I restarted and it ran rough for 2-3 min and then ran fine again after it had a chance to warm up.

I filled up with gas 2 nights ago so i might have just gotten bad gas because i did not have this problem until this tank of gas. I have only filled up twice since purcahse. I will fill up at another station when this tank is gone and see if I still have this problem.

You might find the threads on Gen2 MINI's more useful.......most of the solution's you have seen in this thread is not applicable to the r56....still, great to hear from ya, and I hope you problem is solved soon!!