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I have a MCS '08, and for the first time on tuesday 26th I had trouble with my start up. First start up the car sputtered and was ready to stall. I reved the engine up thinking due to it being -11 without the windchill it was just the cold. I turned the car off and restarted, same problem arose. I back the car out of the driveway and the car would not not accelerate. I could not shift out of 2nd gear.
I took the car into the dealership (everything was under warranty luckly and the dealer is 2 mins away from my house). Problem is basic, expensive repair if you have to pay, but basic. The mild weather to freezing cold back to mild then freezing created condensation that froze within the intake manifold. This along with any build up of "gunk" prevented proper mix of air and gas. So in the end the fuel hose was cleaned, and the intake manifold was replaced.
I gotta say, I've read a lot of posts on here dating back to '03, you would think Mini would take procautions on their recent models to prevent this kind of problem.
--Had some rough idle after a start. The engine would sputter and stumble as if it were about to die then the ECU increases idle agressively and warms it up properly. A little spooky because it never did this in the nearly 4 years I've had the MINI.
Read on the forums here that they suspect some gasoline summer formulas to be the cause. I did buy from Shell recently after they started advertising their new nitrogen enriched gas. At the last refill I bought at Mobil instead and the rough idle at start is all but gone.
This is in Burlington, Vermont.
Perhaps our MINI's don't like the summer nitrogen formula from Shell? Our injectors and fuel pumps have been known to be pretty picky regarding the quality of the fuel we put in so it doesn't surprise me.
~p
__________________ ~pyratio
a.k.a. JET808
Hawaii Mini Motoring Club -Member 90
I have a cool observation: My car is tuned to run 93 octane. When I run 93, the car feels sluggish and the engine barely wants to run when I first start it up and then goes fine. Also, some starts are also a little jerky and the engine wants to run a little better but not great. I recently put 100 Octane Low Lead AV GAS in the car while over in Weston and the car ran PERFECT. Zero problems. Problem solved. Do you think that the ethanol in the gas now has something to do with this?
--Had some rough idle after a start. The engine would sputter and stumble as if it were about to die then the ECU increases idle agressively and warms it up properly. A little spooky because it never did this in the nearly 4 years I've had the MINI.
Read on the forums here that they suspect some gasoline summer formulas to be the cause. I did buy from Shell recently after they started advertising their new nitrogen enriched gas. At the last refill I bought at Mobil instead and the rough idle at start is all but gone.
This is in Burlington, Vermont.
Perhaps our MINI's don't like the summer nitrogen formula from Shell? Our injectors and fuel pumps have been known to be pretty picky regarding the quality of the fuel we put in so it doesn't surprise me.
~p
My specs...
2006 MINI Cooper S
Stock, 29,000 mi
JCW intake
I just had this happen last tank from the same my Mobil 93 octane source in Milton, VT I've used for the last three years which has been really good. I filled it up on 5/17/09. Just ran chuggy, lumpy at start and would almost die but eventually chug back and be fine after starting. Normal driving seemed less responsive on engine throttle blipping too on this tank full. Documented MPGs were same at 29. So, right after I noticed this I dumped in a pint of Amsoil Performance Injection Cleaner (PI) in hopes this would clear it up. Didn't feel any difference, but I did notice excessive soot on the beer can tips So maybe it did? (NOTE: since new I've always turned the key, waited ~3 sec for the fuel pump to go silent before cranking).
I chalked this tank up to a bad batch with a possibility of the ethanol content being higher than advertised and or new summer mix of fuel.
On Monday 6/8/09 (still with a 1/4 tank of not good petrol), I filled up at the Dam Store next to Lake Arrowhead in Milton keeping my fingers crossed. "No ethanol in out Dam Gas" as they say... Runs like a top, fired right up this morning and throttle response has significantly improved in ONE DAY. As the ECU learns I'm sure this tank will only get better.
FYI... During the Green Mountain Chapter BMWCCA live tech talk with Mike Miller two weeks ago, (he's the BMWCCA Roundel official tech advisor) owners of several shops in VT got into a BIG discussion on how many fuel pumps they have been replacing on BMWs (and other German cars - no MINIs yet though) with the new ethanol flavored fuels. With submerged pumps, seems the impellers are expanding and locking up the pumps... No more ethanol for me.
Had similar issues with my 07 MC S in extreme cold weather. Recently took it to Knauz mini, chicago and they have identified the problem code as
SIM 6100811( some thing written as Misture adaptation too lean), SIM 2516565 (some problem with adjusting interlock cable) and perfomed update as per SIM120507 and SIM 240108 respectively.
Have to wait and see till next winter to see if this has really solved the problem.
i had this dilema, not sure its the same one but i was stalling out restart was fine, that worked for like a week then the check engine light was on, into mini it went AGAIN !!!!!
high pressure pump replaced car is fine for now !!!
Well I feel a little better now that I've gone to look for "the fix" and have found 623 posts of workarounds... I thought that my car was starting funny because I was too lazy to look up why
But yeah for what it's worth, 04 (09/03 build) MCS started and ran fine every time when I bought it in January, as soon as spring hit 90% of the time it will die immediately after starting. Restart and runs perfect. I usually get 93 at the same gas station, which gets their gas from Gulf, I think.
My short list of what I think it could be:
Fuel pressure related: my subaru used to crank for a couple of seconds if it had sat because it had a weak check valve in the fuel pump so after sitting all of the fuel pressure was gone. Maybe the mini just reacts differently to the same problem.
Software: ECU is doing something funky during it's starting algorithm.
I think that the fuel pressure fits the bill the best, except sooooo many people claimed their problems started after a reflash.
Well I feel a little better now that I've gone to look for "the fix" and have found 623 posts of workarounds... I thought that my car was starting funny because I was too lazy to look up why
But yeah for what it's worth, 04 (09/03 build) MCS started and ran fine every time when I bought it in January, as soon as spring hit 90% of the time it will die immediately after starting. Restart and runs perfect. I usually get 93 at the same gas station, which gets their gas from Gulf, I think.
My short list of what I think it could be:
Fuel pressure related: my subaru used to crank for a couple of seconds if it had sat because it had a weak check valve in the fuel pump so after sitting all of the fuel pressure was gone. Maybe the mini just reacts differently to the same problem.
Software: ECU is doing something funky during it's starting algorithm.
I think that the fuel pressure fits the bill the best, except sooooo many people claimed their problems started after a reflash.
To determine if the fuel pressure is causing the problem simply turn the key on and wait 4 seconds before starting the car, if it starts OK the check valve is bad and the pump will have to be replaced. You have the ability to get the answer within a few seconds........
__________________
In the abundance of Water only the fool is thirsty!
The pump or the check valve what is the parts no on realOEM.com or the picture of the parts..i will change them and post the result..my Mini S is and 04
Thanks
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Mini cooper S 2004 ,home made air intaike ,17''x7'' adr interspeed with s3000 nexen tire 215/40/17,15% alta v2 puley,1ball exault.costom maid front spliter .costom maid exault tips.costom made gps stand,moss mini front strut bar..35% tinted window..alta 19 sway bar,shark ecu,oil cacht can..
I just started having this problem,The dealer adjusted idle and told me to watch it. the told me they might have to check the cold start fuel pressure.
on an other note the pointed out a strut problem one strut top was domed
and one was cracked all the way around i was told it was from hitting pot holes ( sounds like a design problem to me) the one that was cracked they warranted but the other i had to pay for cost me $540.00 they installed
new top plates and strut tops. has anyone had this same problem?
I just started having this problem,The dealer adjusted idle and told me to watch it. the told me they might have to check the cold start fuel pressure.
on an other note the pointed out a strut problem one strut top was domed
and one was cracked all the way around i was told it was from hitting pot holes ( sounds like a design problem to me) the one that was cracked they warranted but the other i had to pay for cost me $540.00 they installed
new top plates and strut tops. has anyone had this same problem?
i belive that happened to my mom twice before they gave the MINI to me xD
and well she hits most if not all pot holes in every street
Well I have been seeing this problem for most of the summer (so it's not cold outside temps). Start the engine the first time and it just stumbles over, start it a second time and it runs like a champ.
I have tried waiting for the fuel pump (even cycling it twice) and I always have all accessories off.
I doesn't seem anyone yet has the answer, so I will just tag this thread and hope!
Had this problem once or twice and it go and comme back that is
can't see were it comme from...but from my 2 sens im sure it the fuel pump.
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Mini cooper S 2004 ,home made air intaike ,17''x7'' adr interspeed with s3000 nexen tire 215/40/17,15% alta v2 puley,1ball exault.costom maid front spliter .costom maid exault tips.costom made gps stand,moss mini front strut bar..35% tinted window..alta 19 sway bar,shark ecu,oil cacht can..
I just started having this issue. First time was on 8/17 and I needed a jump. Worked fine until yesterday when it happened twice (morning and late afternoon). I'm in Philly so it's hot here, not dead of winter like many previous posts. Both times yesterday were very severe and neither roadside assistance guy really knew what was going on b/c after they tried jumping it still wouldn't start. First guy yesterday thought it was a cylinder misfire. 2nd guy thought initially it was battery, then spark plugs but quickly dismissed that b/c he said that wouldn't "fix itself". Then when he finally got the car to completely turn over after 6 tries we saw that the engine was erratically shaking and almost seemed like it was gonna cut off again. So he dismissed all of his original thoughts and said i have issues! So now i'm here at the dealership (thank god i still have 800 miles under warranty) and they are suspecting it's a hot water pump issue. Does anyone else have any insight? I'm really worried about this one.
Well I have been seeing this problem for most of the summer (so it's not cold outside temps). Start the engine the first time and it just stumbles over, start it a second time and it runs like a champ.
I have tried waiting for the fuel pump (even cycling it twice) and I always have all accessories off.
I doesn't seem anyone yet has the answer, so I will just tag this thread and hope!
I have an '03 MINI with 97K miles. I've owned the car since new.
Ever since some s/w update years ago, I have always had a stumble 30 seconds or so after starting the car. Mostly when it's mid 60's (degrees F).
But very recently the car won't start on the 1st attempt (after sitting overnight or all day at work) but cranks right up fine on the 2nd attempt (with no stumble). I have event tried the ignition on for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel rail; no change.
With the sudden change in my car's behavior, I was thinking I have a faulty injector that is flooding a cylinder. But with some many owners still complaining of the same problems, I'm not sure anymore. (or we all have fault injectors)
Some of the threads here indicate ethanol gas as the culprit. If I buy it, it's less that 10%.
__________________ Mini03Tiger84
Apex, NC '03 MCS LY/Bk Stripes, 113000+ original owner miles
Helix 19% Pulley & Short Shifter, Alta CAI, Koni Struts, HSport Springs, 22mm Alta anti-sway bar, Auto-Up, Whalen Shift Knob
I've had this problem since new (04 MCS) usually only in cooler temps or when car sits for a couple of days. Always starts right up on second attempt and runs great so, I'm not worrying about it.
my 06 will not start after i filled it at the pumps till second attempt but also had to put my foot on the throttle a little..at the time the check engine light had come on for the purge valve..(evap system purge valve) took it to the dealer and the replaced it and never had the problem after...
I have an 2002 Mini Cooper ( purchased 2 years ago ) - when I purchased it, it had 32K miles on it... It has done what it is being discussed on the thread since the day I purchased it.
I have the problem. It's getting worse over time. When it's cold from sitting at least 8 hours it will fire right up but then immediately stumble almost to a stall then recover. It's stumbling deeper, now almost to a full stall. It makes no difference if it's hot or cold outside, parked indoors or out, A/C on or off, touch the throttle or not before startup ... I had it to the dealer just before my warranty ended. They said no codes and they could not duplicate it. They had it 3 days. I think it showed up just after I had it in for other work. Did they update my software and create this problem?? It acts like the cold start circuit is not giving a long enough spray, like a short fuel starvation. I WANT IT FIXED ! It didn't do it before!!! 2005 JCW - Patrick
First, I have done searches and still find that I need some additional info to help me resolve this issue. BTW, I read this threads but no step-by-step How To exists to approach this and I would suggest that someone who is in the know write one and make it a sticky.
Anyhow,
My MCS has been in the garage for most of the last 3-4 weeks or so because of my travel, weather, and more time on my HD and Colorado for various reasons.
About 2 weeks ago I was taking it out in the evening and it was hard to start. When it did there was black smoke and when I stepped on the accellerator there was a "lag" or hesitation before it spooled up. A few minutes and the idle smoothed out and I went on my way. I gave it a "spirited" drive and ran it hard.
A few days later I had the same problem as above but it took longer to warm up. I reset the ecu and all seemed to be well.
When this took place I posted on my local club MINI site when I saw some info about replacement of the PCV valve. Sparky has 62 K now and so I ordered a new PCV (it has not arrived yet) and posted about my woes. One suggestion was that I clean my MAF sensor, as I use an oiled CAI and the thought was that the sensor may have gotten contaminated.
So I started searching for how to clean the MAF (I have done this before on my Corvette) but have not been able to find a step-by-step and hate to take things apart w/o some idea of how do do it.
A couple of posts indicated that the problem could be due to the alcohol in the fuel (most of the stuff around here is the 10% alcohol-gas mix. The car had been sitting, it has been wet and so I thought that it may be possible that moisture has built up.
I also saw suggestions that it would be advisable to use a lower octane gas (I use 93 since Sparky got a Jan-tune last summer; BTW he has been running like a champ since then).
I also have used the BMW gas additive but have not for at least 4or 5 K.
Since I have to go on about a 70 or 8 mile trip tonite as highway speeds, I decided to burn off some gas before I gas-up (I' at a half tank right now).
Now it stalled after the first try and ran very poorly. The check engine light came on and stayed on, even after 5 starts and restarts.
My questions:
Should I clean the MAF and what are the steps?
Can I drive it with the check engine light on
Will the code clear or should I go see the local PepBoys or Advance Auto and have it read?
What gas should I use?
Should I add Textron to the fuel?
What haven't I read or thought about that I should do.
Thanks for indulging me and special thanks for any help
__________________ "Sparky"; PS '03 MCS; Premium & C/W Packages; OEM Roofrack; Xenons; 17" S-Lites w/Goodyear Eagle F1 AS; S/B Bonnet Stripes; Union Jack Moonroof & mirrors; K&N Typhoon CAI w/box; Alta 15%, SC Diverter,& 19mm Rear Sway Bar; NGK Iridium plugs, MSD wires, CravenSpeed Defenders; M7 Air Diverter; Euro Shelf; AUX Cable; BlackSheepskin Vest Covers; St. Martin license plate; RMW tune; Dyno'd @ 199.7 hp
Last edited by thecigarman; 10-26-2009 at 04:40 PM.