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I have an 03 MCS, and I to suffer from this problem. It seems that if it's a cool morning it happens regularly, specifically in the mornings. I found out if a pump the accelerator a few times, it usually starts with no problem. Most times it farts and putters, then dies. Then after i restart it, it's fine with no hesitation. I beleive that it's a problem with the fuel pump not sending fuel to the injectors initially, but I could be wrong.
After careful review, I have determined that pumping the accelerator does not solve the problem. Sometimes a combination of both these solution fixes the problem. I have determined that it's a fuel pressure problem. The pressure in your fuel lines, isn't adequate at first stop up. This is what works for me. When you get in your car, turn the key, but do not start the car, you'll hear your fuel pump initialize. After a few seconds start it, the car should start without it bogging down. If that doesn't work then pump that accelerator along with turning the key, but do not start the car initially. I tried it this morning, it was 50 degress out, and I live in Virginia. My car started with no problem, and it's a 03 MCS, that has alot of modifications.
I have also had this problem for some time now; I turn the key and the pump runs for 2 seconds, then I start the car, iIgot so used to doing this that iIdo it automatically every time. The problem is caused by the non return valve located in the pump; it fails to maintain the pressure in the fuel line and causes the engine to starve after siting for an extended period. To verify the complaint connect a fuel gauge then run the engine at idle and record the pressure, then switch the car off and record the pressure a half hour later. If the pressure dropped by half bar the condition is verified. Another reason can be the cause; leaking injectors. To verify this concern, take a ride and get the car up to speed, then release the gas pedal completely, while the car is coasting observe the o2 sensor value on an OBD-II scan tool (B1S1) the value should be at zero. If not the injectors are allowing fuel into the engine when there should be none; its best to take an assistant with you when you do any diagnosis involving reading live data from a scan tool; one person to drive and another to work the scanner.
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In the abundance of Water only the fool is thirsty!
the parts no 7 is the problem that is were the fuel is hold back for the night i think ..so if this valve is not working propely it might be the problem let me
some feed back on this ..
MC 2
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Mini cooper S 2004 ,home made air intaike ,17''x7'' adr interspeed with s3000 nexen tire 215/40/17,15% alta v2 puley,1ball exault.costom maid front spliter .costom maid exault tips.costom made gps stand,moss mini front strut bar..35% tinted window..alta 19 sway bar,shark ecu,oil cacht can..
the parts no 7 is the problem that is were the fuel is hold back for the night i think ..so if this valve is not working properly it might be the problem let me
some feed back on this ..
MC 2
The main valve in in the fuel tank on the fuel pump; its purpose is to maintain fuel pressure in the fuel line all the way from the tank and up to the fuel rail. item 7 is a vacuum controlled regulator that is responsible for maintaining the pressure differential on the injector as the pressure in the intake manifold changes. Your problem is in the tank!
__________________
In the abundance of Water only the fool is thirsty!
The main valve in in the fuel tank on the fuel pump; its purpose is to maintain fuel pressure in the fuel line all the way from the tank and up to the fuel rail. item 7 is a vacuum controlled regulator that is responsible for maintaining the pressure differential on the injector as the pressure in the intake manifold changes. Your problem is in the tank!
Hi i like you to point me out using realOEM.com the part that shoult be change to solve the presure drop over night.. Thanks
MC 2
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Mini cooper S 2004 ,home made air intaike ,17''x7'' adr interspeed with s3000 nexen tire 215/40/17,15% alta v2 puley,1ball exault.costom maid front spliter .costom maid exault tips.costom made gps stand,moss mini front strut bar..35% tinted window..alta 19 sway bar,shark ecu,oil cacht can..
The main regulator is located in the right side of the tank and is accessible by lifting the rear seat cushion and removing the locking ring on the top of the passenger side of the tank. I looked at realoem but did not see the item listed.The fuel pump is located on the opposite side of the tank.
__________________
In the abundance of Water only the fool is thirsty!
To those [not just yullie36] that think this problem is a pressure drop in the injector rails/supply, why does this problem only seem to surface when the temperature drops? I've never had my MINI do this in the late spring, summer thru early fall. Is this due to a greater temperature swing, remembering pv=nrt from chemistry, in the colder months...? How would increased alcohol in fuel, blended into gasoline during winter driving here, contribute to this problem? Oozing injectors caused by winter blend fuel? Sorry to be skeptical of this latest theory, we're pushing 600 posts in this thread, which might be the 'one,' but my skepticism [and cynicism ] is still healthy...
One more thing to toss out: When my MINI does the startup stutter, it feels like it's running rich, not lean. For any of you that ever raced motocross or dirt bikes, it's like a 2-stroke that got 'loaded-up,' due to gas pouring into the crankcase after a fall/crash. I know a MINI isn't a 2-stroke, but the throttle response after the stutter feels like a rich condition [it wants to rev up and down], instead of a lean conditiion [not wanting to rev and not wanting to let the RMPs drop].
Watching the discussion flow,
-B
Quote:
Originally Posted by yuille36
...I have determined that it's a fuel pressure problem. The pressure in your fuel lines, isn't adequate at first stop up. ...
The ECT plays a major role in determining how much fuel the engine will get while operating in open loop, especially when it is cold. The colder the engine, the more fuel enrichment will be required to start and maintain idle RPMs.
One sure way to determine if there is a fuel pressure bleed off causing hard starts is to conduct a simple experiment.
Turn the key to the on position, count to three, then crank the engine. If the car starts fine every time.........drum roll please.......it's a problem with fuel pressure not being maintained on the rail after engine shutdown!
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In the abundance of Water only the fool is thirsty!
I had an A/F gauge (air/fuel) hitched up to my 2005 S. When ever it had the startup stumble the gauge was reading lean big time , 16 to 1 or more. Normal startup was somewhat near 12 or 13 to 1 a/f on the cooler days.
Well, my 03 MCS started doing this later after Jan tuned it and I had no idea what the issue was but I shortly realized that it had to do with the cold rather than the tune. It seems that the combo of the car sitting for around an hour and temps under 65 degrees or so would make my car run weird after start up.
The car would start fine and then as I would try to drive away, the engine would stay running but I would lose ALL or most power from the engine. It wouldnt die but even throttle inputs wouldnt do anything. It would do this for several short bursts and never again until it would have a good chance to sit. Also, (I do have a cam but I'm not sure if it is the cause) at idle, such as at a stop light, the rpms can fluctuate and at some points they will drop so low as to almost stall the engine if I dont give it more gas. At this time, however, the engine IS responsive to throttle input.
The closest comparison I can make is when I was coming home from work tonight (30 degrees out) on my 49cc 2 stroke scooter. When I start the scooter in the cold it takes a couple tries, one with gas and then it starts when there is gas in the engine from turning over but with no further throttle input. When I accelerate, the scooter does the exact same thing and bogs down with little or no power a couple of times and then I dont have the problem any longer. This leads me to believe that the engine is getting either too much or too little gas or that it is getting too little air.
Of all the things I've tried and discounted, blaming it on ethanol fuel, the day of the week, dirty injectors, bad karma, etc., only one thing seems to work. And I got the tip from this thread:
Key-on for about 3-seconds BEFORE starting. Let the fuel pump run until it's quiet and then crank to start. Knock on wood, this seems to have eliminated the cold start problem with 10 Ball...
mine just stumbles at the morning but i know its because its cold so ill just leave the engine running for about a minute and there problem fixed no more issues while driving.
My 2007 MInis cooper s started to have engine stalling problem
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat_Cooper
This has become like a MINI flu. Alot of people on NEMINI.org have been complaining about this and well..there hasn't been one dealer yet to fix this issue. The problem mainly occurs after the car has been sitting for a long time and when you go to start it, it starts to choke up and stall. If you are having this issue please post about it. I'd like to take this thread and forward it to MINIUSA directly.
I originally thought it was just the 2005 models but my friend with a 2003 is now having the same issue aswell.
Also, can a moderator please sticky this if possible. Thank you!
Any fix to this probelm?. Problem is i live in UP, Michigan and nearest dealer is 250 miles. It is 10,500 miles on board never had a problem and computer shows that it needs service after 7000 miles.
my car is stalling before it never did and its not even cold or that cold, i dont know if this has anything to do but my oil temp is cold most of the time
Did you try my suggestion [in post # 604]? I didn't come up with this, but it works in my case... B
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrianr
my car is stalling before it never did and its not even cold or that cold, i dont know if this has anything to do but my oil temp is cold most of the time
Did you try my suggestion [in post # 604]? I didn't come up with this, but it works in my case... B
Hey Muy, thanks a lot for your suggestion. I do that all the time.
It does work to some extent. starting was never a problem with my mini but staying live wthout underpowered/choking behaviour/stalling at signal until the engine warms up was the problem.
The engine does start even at -6 F but stalls after 30-40 seconds and i have to start again and does stay alive thereafter with a kind of choking or surviving on the last breath, behaves like it is running with one cylinder for next 1/8th of mile and then it is back to fun all the way once the engine is warm.
Except for this issue it has been great car so far.
Anything new related to the double crank to start? I know there was some debate if this is related but it seemed to be discussed. My 06 is doing this fairly regularly. Not starting first crank and then starting just fine second. No stumble issues. And leaving key on for a time does not eliminate the need for a second crank most times.
Anything new related to the double crank to start? I know there was some debate if this is related but it seemed to be discussed. My 06 is doing this fairly regularly. Not starting first crank and then starting just fine second. No stumble issues. And leaving key on for a time does not eliminate the need for a second crank most times.
Does this happen only when the engine is cold; if so it needs more fuel. The engine coolant temperature sensor is responsible for delivering more fuel when the engine block is cold. Assuming you don't have a fuel delivery concern. use a laser pyrometer to confirm the ECT is correct by comparing the ECT as read from the scan tool to an actual reading off the thermostat housing; I would expect them to be within 5-10 degrees f of each other
__________________
In the abundance of Water only the fool is thirsty!
No. Not only. I have seen it happen when it was run and then shut off and left for an hour. So engine still warm but not hot. Have had it happen when cold but it seems rather random and, if I am not mistaken, more when hot or warm. Almost like old timey vapor lock in a way. I know thats not possible with this sort of fuel system but reminds me of that.
I do not crank it long though. When it does not roar to life with a 3-5 second crank. I stop, reset key and then retry and it cranks immediately second time. I have tried waiting on first key turn and have had it start with no second try. But a few times it fails to eliminate it.
And so now, today at least, it refuses to do it. Started fine cold, started up again warm, then again hot then again warm... No sign of the problem but, being aware of it even more today, I did let it sit a few more seconds in position 2 before attempting.
After careful review, I have determined that pumping the accelerator does not solve the problem. 
Sometimes a combination of both these solution fixes the problem. I have determined that it's a fuel pressure problem. The pressure in your fuel lines, isn't adequate at first stop up. This is what works for me. 
When you get in your car, turn the key, but do not start the car, you'll hear your fuel pump initialize. After a few seconds start it, the car should start without it bogging down. If that doesn't work then pump that accelerator along with turning the key, but do not start the car initially. I tried it this morning, it was 50 degress out, and I live in Virginia. My car started with no problem, and it's a 03 MCS, that has alot of modifications. 
] is still healthy... 
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