In short I am pretty sure I will need to replace the transmission.

I have a 2007 S with about 93K, and a recently rebuilt engine (rebuilt by the dealer thanks to their error with a water pump replacement). The car was my father's, and now my son has been driving it for the past 3-5K. So no real abuse, but now the car will work fine in reverse, but forward is limited to what I would call a Limp Mode. There is no ability to select gears, and the car will move forward with high revs... No errors on my ODBII

So having read some of the thread below, and with limited skills (I can do front end work, some diagnostic, but not swapping transmissions) I am thinking the end game is rebuild or replacement as there does not seem to be anyone reporting otherwise (like a simple fix, bad sensor, tranny flush, etc.).

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-at-80k.html

So that said, I am in Fairfield, CT and trying to evaluate my options.
1) Dealer - Last resort due to cost
2) Local Repair - I have only spoken to a local import shop W Jennings, who suggested a scan ($70), and if no luck then refer me to Croce's Transmissions in Norwalk, CT. Croce's would give me an estimate ($120) before doing the work, which could be a partial or full rebuild.
3) Buy used and find a local shop to do the work. I am seeing ebay tranny's at $1300+ with the ebay seller suggesting it might be $1000 for a local shop to do the work. I even found a tranny with 35K on it for $1800 (tempting).

So I guess my questions come down to the following, but advice is welcome:
1) Anything obvious to check myself before going to the professionals?
2) Driving the car to get repaired (15 miles). Safe or VERY bad idea?
3) Anyone with good/bad experiences with shops local to me in Fairfield, CT?
4) Any experiences you've had worth noting with respect to rebuilds from local shops, or perhaps using local shops to install used parts from Ebay,etc?
5) If I rebuild or even go with the 35K tranny, should I plan any kind of preventative maintenance? I know these are sealed trannys, but should I flush anyway?

Thanks so much

 

Do you have an 07 convertible? If so, then this is the right section (1st generation) - if not, then you have an R56, which is second generation, so you might get more answers if you move your post to that section.

That said, my understanding is that the 6-speed Aisin transmission was the same transmission in both the 1st generation and the 2nd generation, or at least valve body was (until sometime in 2009, when BMW / Mini finally realized that the valve bodies they'd been using since 2005 were complete crap).

So, my first suggestion to you would be whether you've checked if its a transmission issue or just a valve body issue?

 

6) sell car?

If it was mine I would cut my losses. Depends on your finances and pain threshold.

Best of luck with it!

 

Noonzio - My apologies. Yes, you are correct its an R56 (hard top). So should I try to either move this post or delete it / move it to the 2nd generation section?


Minnie the moocher. I can't expect there to be much value in a car with a smoked tranny, and considering I will need to replace it with another car, I am thinking of fixing this one since I know the history of the car (California car with a new engine).

So the question becomes... Put 3-4+K into something I know or something I don't know. (Setting myself up here), but what else could be on the horizon? replace turbo ? Shocks and struts (already had that apart for a blown strut bearing)? Both manageable, no?

 

i had a transmission swap for 350 i did the swap in the drive way. although i damaged the tranny (my fault for not knowing the ATF level and just pouring 6 quarts in it)...

try car-part.com and see what they got. if you can take the nose of the car off, then game is over. the swap is straight forward after pulling the engine and tranny out.

what is the mileage on the car?

 

The car has about 95K and otherwise seems fine (fingers crossed). I don't see doing the swap myself without a lift (and with that subframe I need to get out of there as well).

AWESOME suggestion on car-part.com. Found J.C. Recycling in Meriden, CT with a 29K tranny for $1000 (3 mos warranty), and would install it for another $800 (plus fluids). That seems like a very fair deal, especially since the sale & install is in the same place. but he is 50 miles away... (can i drive in limp mode that far?) or that's a 50 mile tow...

Before bringing the car to him I want to be sure its not something stupid. Would bringing it to the local guy with the computer be enough to get a good idea of ... sensor/reset/$400 problem vs go get a new tranny?

 

i dont think it is good to drive it that long. it is not going to be a fun drive. besides, it will take you at least 1.5 hr to get there... a 150 tow is better.

did the issue happen right after the dealer service/visit/checkup?

since the car is parked anyway, why not jack it up and get the oil out to see the condition of the ATF and try to refill it?

for ATF check rmeuropean.com it is less than 7 bux per quart.

 

I agree, the tow is worth it. The issue with the tranny did not happen just after any kind of work (engine rebuild was 9+ months ago).

Coincidentally I have a case of Idemitsu that I bought for an 02 Volvo S60 (also an Aisin that needed the ATF3309). I longer have the car, but it seems to be the same stuff according to Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Idemitsu-1010.../dp/B007WMGFSU

So once the temps come up a bit I will drain it (seems easier than the volvo...) . So what am I looking for Grit? Burned smell? Anything else?

At that point, put in new fluid (once for ounce) and drive it, no?

 

look for all of the above and quantity. you might have less than required or more. I have yet to try to same my tranny by the way. if i were to do it, i was going to drain all the ATF, refill until it starts to drip from the small plug. close it up, reset adaptation and see if that fixes it. remember, you have to be leveled. buy jacks.

 

http://www.minihausperformance.com/

At least talk to this guy. I came from upstate NY to have him work on my car.

 

Thanks Eddie07S - I sent them an email with the details so he can respond at his convenience.

With respect to the fluid, Pelican has a VERY detailed write up, including filter change (which I don't plan to do in this weather as it involves loosening up the sub frame) - http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...id_Change.htm#

I get the impression that once drained I will replace the overflow tube, fill it to overflow, replace the top plug, then run the tranny up to temp (idle) and then top off again if needed. Then replace the inspection plug below. Do I have that right?

 

"Update" - I spoke to Mini Haus Performance. Very nice guy and hears this kind of thing with some frequency. Based on my description he thinks the tranny is toast. Does not think a fluid flush or check is necessary.

He is willing to swap in a tranny if I source it ($1200 labor). And yet I am thinking using a car recycler (from car-part.com thanks MiniToBe) from who will sell me a 30K tranny and install it. $1K for the tranny, $800 for the labor, plus fluids. I am thinking of keeping the work in one place just in case there are any issues he will back it for a few months... This seems like the best option

 

I hope it works out. I would ask the recycler to bring the price down to 1500 since your getting the part and service at the same place. It doesnt hurt to ask

 

Agreed. I like to do those things face to face and cash in hand!

Thank you all!

 

With respect to the tranny swap, does anyone know if there is any programming that needs to be done and if it requires specialty tools? I should think the mechanical work is relatively straight forward but if this requires some kind of specialty computer/software, I just want to be sure the shop has what it needs.

 

personally, i was resetting the adaptation so the engine and trany can synch together.

 

So I got the car to a local shop for a read of computer ($130). He gets one code 4F93. Fluid level is fine, and nothing visually obvious, would seem to be internal or sensor/electric.

I've searched this code and only found mention of it here -
http://my.obdcloud.com/dtc_codes/mini/view/EGS/4F93 - Per this site, seems to be ratio monitoring... 2nd gear or clutches...

So that brings me back to the three options.
1) "Local" tranny place where I need to tow to them, then diagnostic (all in $300 or so). Then they give me a price to rebuild on site (won't provide a range)

2) Bring car to the recycler where he will sell and install a 30K tranny for about 2K all in.

3) Hobble home and try a tranny flush? (I have the fluid and tomorrow it will be 51 degrees.....)

Sorry - I am a little twisted up on this one... expensive and unknowns - bad combo

 

You can give it one last try with the flush, but you need to reset the EGS module (reset adaptation) and take your time with instructions/procedure of refilling and getting to operating temp.

 

Disregard, you already confirmed the level was good.

 

Update - Shop swapped in two different used transmissions and can't get the car operational except to manually place the car into r or 1st gear as it will not respond to the gear selector. The local shop and a "car computer expert" each concluded it the issue is likely the transmission control module.

Apparently the TCM is toast, can't swap in a used one, new is the only option. Per Mini, one unit in the country and ) units in Germany. Not a popular item.

So I think I am down to two options:
1) I have another ship that says they will diagnose the computer/electrical and determine next steps (new tranny module is $1234 at Mini, plus computer work, is not returnable, etc).
2) Sell the car as is.
3) ?

Thoughts suggestions appreciated. I feel like I am going down the rabbit hole. The car is in Meriden, CT. Ugh...

 

First of all, do you know the condition of the swapped tranny? that one might be shot too!
Also, explain more about the "manually place the car into R or 1st gear."
finally not true about the TCM. I bought a FLOODED mini and programmed all modules in it with the exception of the DME. as long as you can find a used TCM with similar part number, you can use some programming tools (discussed here in NAM) like Winfkp and NCSexpert. ISTA/P will make things even better.

 

The impression I get is that the gear selector switch is some combination of cable and electronics, so I am concluding from his comment that he is "reaching under the hood and putting it into gear" or something like that. Maybe he is using the gear selector and its just not electronically upshifting... I am not that sure, but could ask for clarification if its important.

Aside from the original transmission he has swapped in two trannies, apparently 22K and 26K. No luck with either. In general I would assume one or both would be good, assuming the mileage is as stated. (the donor car's demise is likely an accident and not the tranny, no?).

TCM wise - He found that one of the wires that should have an output was not... The traveling car electronics guru took a look and concluded it was the TCM.... (odd that the guru said he would charge $200 for his work, but actually charged $100 - being nice or felt guilty for not being able to help, not sure).

So my new option is to take it to Northeast Motor Werks in Middletown. Spoke to Mark, nice guy, was not aware of his shop (good reviews online for Mini). So he is willing to take a look at it. Might not be the TCM, but if the TCM is toast, he said I would have to buy a new module (per him they can't be reprogrammed - 2nd person to tell me that)

Finally, I called my local guy, the one who scanned my car before sending it to the guy for the new transmission. HE is the one who pulled the code 4F93..... so I am thinking to myself... wouldn't the code come out of the TCM... the one that is toast? Hmm

 

The dealer or the shop will always try to make money off us (the customer) and take advantage of the little info we know...with that being said, I did the programming myself on two TCMs. if you want to spend the money, go right ahead. But keep in mind that they can be reprogrammed.

the other thing is, when they swapped the transmission, how did they check the ATF?

 

Thanks. I just joined this site (was not aware that was an option).

I started to look at programming tools. I have not yet found a starting point to understanding how to set it up, use it, etc. I've watched some videos, and I can see that with more experience it it possible, but I don't have that. I also have read a variety of opinions on the ability to reprogram the TCM, including people who were unable to reprogram used TCM A, but were successful reprogramming TCM B. (I wonder if they can only be reprogrammed a second time...)

I then realized from my Volvo days that there are module rebuilders including www.moduleexperts.com, www.aesmodules.com, etc. So I reached out to them for options (waiting). If they can service/rebuild/etc, I am thinking they might be able to code the VIN in to the module and save my repair guy a lot of heart ache. Will see.

If you can direct me to a starting point on how to learn one of these programming tools (you pick what's best for me), it seems I can run it off a laptop, and assume its the cost of the software and a dongle? I am willing to take another look, but I also believe that TCM is toast, either due to damage or him trying to reprogram too many times.

 

To specifically code the TCM, you need ISTA/P software. It can also program and code other modules...it takes long time though to get one task done. There is a clone software which uses the K+Dcan cable and the original comes with ICOM "system" Once you get this software, you then need to update the SPDaten (files that read and write to the modules).
To "play" with your car options, you need NCS expert and NCS dummy.