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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
So today I finally finished everything (I think) and changed the oil for the first time with 1550 miles on the new engine. Will be sending off to Blackstone Labs for analysis.
So for the final days work:
Old vs New (and a boxer foot)
Strut out
Shot of the new header from last weekend:
New Header
So for the breakdown cost of the entire process:
Machine Shop - $300
New Head - $850 (mine had a crack in every cylinder)
Mega Cam and Adjusted gear - $500
Spark Plugs - $35
Timing chain/ guide - $95
Bearings (crank) - $578
CP Pistons/ Rings - $652
Studs/ Bolts - $200
Coolant Hoses - $160
Engine Mounts - $200
Ball Joints - $150
Strut Mounts $75
Gaskets - $200
Header - $410
Clutch - $382 Misc : $186
Total $4973
Which isn't too bad considering I also replaced a bunch of extra stuff (Head, header, coolant hoses, ball joints, etc)
Things I learned:
The rebuild is fun process, not too scary at all. After all most of it only goes together one way. Take your time, make sure you research what you are doing. The Bentley Manual is basically useless for most all of the rebuild process, however the Haynes manual has great information.
I decided it was time to do the rebuild because of low compression. Upon taking everything apart the it looks like the culprit was most likely the oil rings were a little stuck. This could be because of my long oil change interval (20,000+). After the rebuild the power was much better, but not perfect. After some more testing was able to determine that it was a clogged cat. I would recommend anyone that is over 150,000 on their original cat to replace it, you'll be amazed with the power increase.
In another 360,000+ miles I will likely be doing another rebuild (or whenever I determine its time again). Its been fun - aiming for a million miles!
So I was playing with numbers this morning, looking at oil change intervals, and the cost of frequent ones vs long intervals over the life of the engine. I have always followed the OBC (on board computer) recommended oil change interval on this vehicle and it usually came out to around 22,000 miles between changes. I've posted many times about this, stating that I wanted to see how far the engine would go, and how bad it would look when it finally needed repair. As I stated earlier the low compression (low, but not that bad 110psi across all cylinders) was caused by sticky/stuck oil rings, possibly caused by my long service interval. Or just the fact that I had over 365,000 miles on the motor. There was literally no signs of wear on the engine other than two of the cam lobes, and no oil build up (sludge) anywhere. The original hone marks were still in the cylinders, the crank had now wear at all (the machine shop said it met original specs).
It seems that if I would have diagnosed my clogged cat sooner, I could have gone further before a rebuild. Possibly a drawback of being a "shade tree mechanic".
Anyway on to oil changes and numbers.
I figured $70 per change if I do it myself, $45 oil, $15 filter, $10 shipping/ misc (I live in the middle of nowhere, and will only use genuine MINI filters)
So if I did the popular 5000 mile interval changes, I would have done 73 of them.
I followed the OBC interval ~22,000 interval and did 16 changes.
So:
73 x $70 = $5110
16 x $70 = $1120
Difference = $3990
Cost of new engine $3300
so $690 difference between the two options.
Now we wait and see how far someone gets with their 5000 mile interval.
I believe other synthetics are comparable if Mobil 1 is not to your liking… I carry about 5-10 qts for each car on hand. Amazon moves these quickly so sometimes they are out of stock... Just make sure to order ahead.
eBay has OEM filters for $12-13 usually… I like grabbing some WIX filters (#57303) from RockAuto for $5each… Have had zero issues with gaskets/fitment/installation.
For $70/oil change, you could knock that down to $30-39 depending on your sourcing… That is a sizeable expense decrease.
Amazon and RockAuto are nice because the parts come to you…
So…
73 x $39 = $2,847
16 x $39 = $624
73 x $30 = $2,190
16 x $30 = $480
I cannot believe what the dealership charges for an oil change...
I bet you could cut that expense down some for oil changes. Seems a bit high…
$22.88 + plus tax Amazon Link for 5qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic
I believe other synthetics are comparable if Mobil 1 is not to your liking… I carry about 5-10 qts for each car on hand. Amazon moves these quickly so sometimes they are out of stock... Just make sure to order ahead.
eBay has OEM filters for $12-13 usually… I like grabbing some WIX filters (#57303) from RockAuto for $5each… Have had zero issues with gaskets/fitment/installation.
For $70/oil change, you could knock that down to $30-39 depending on your sourcing… That is a sizeable expense decrease.
Amazon and RockAuto are nice because the parts come to you…
So…
73 x $39 = $2,847
16 x $39 = $624
73 x $30 = $2,190
16 x $30 = $480
I cannot believe what the dealership charges for an oil change...
Yeah, I just kind of rounded. Because of where I live I've gotten used to the higher prices. I have no idea what a dealer oil change costs, my car has only been to the dealer twice.
I guess what I'm trying to say is I'm not sure its worth it to do oil changes every 5000 miles. My engine had little to no wear, I'm comfortable saying that my engine showed no more wear than one that followed the 5000 mile interval. I'll be comfortable saying that until proven wrong.
Basically by doing 5000 mile changes you are spending $2300-$3900 more for the same result over a 365,000 mile period.
Just an opinion based on 14 years and 365000 miles of experimenting
Yeah, I just kind of rounded. Because of where I live I've gotten used to the higher prices. I have no idea what a dealer oil change costs, my car has only been to the dealer twice.
I guess what I'm trying to say is I'm not sure its worth it to do oil changes every 5000 miles. My engine had little to no wear, I'm comfortable saying that my engine showed no more wear than one that followed the 5000 mile interval. I'll be comfortable saying that until proven wrong.
Basically by doing 5000 mile changes you are spending $2300-$3900 more for the same result over a 365,000 mile period.
Just an opinion based on 14 years and 365000 miles of experimenting
Understood. Well, you have the most data so far on that topic! hehe
Its doing great, so glad I did it. I've been traveling for work a bit so haven't put that many miles on it yet. Will turn 370,000 miles this week, so about 4500 miles on the re-build. I had it in the body shop last week getting the hood repainted. They did a poor job last time and the clear coat was pealing, they repainted for free
That was an AWESOME read from beginning to end. (Sitting here at work at 0100 with nothing else to do). I have 209734 on my 03 R53 and was thinking I will be doing this soon. Seeing that you went 365K before means I have a ways to go. I am weighing my options on doing a rebuild (I have never rebuilt an engine myself) or buying a reman from Way Motor Works. Oh well, looks like I have another 100K to go before I decide what to do. Great job!!!
Excellent review, after reading all 6 pages I am impressed with both you---your mini and synthetic oil and your ability to keep a stock clutch for over 300,000 miles. One surprise is the transmission stood the test of time and from the writeup it did not require any service. Of the 300,00+ miles how many were on the Royal Purple and how many on Mobil One?
Excellent review, after reading all 6 pages I am impressed with both you---your mini and synthetic oil and your ability to keep a stock clutch for over 300,000 miles. One surprise is the transmission stood the test of time and from the writeup it did not require any service. Of the 300,00+ miles how many were on the Royal Purple and how many on Mobil One?
I did not dive into the transmission at all. I have had no signs of any issues with it. It has also been running Royal Purple.
I ran Mobile 1 for probably the first 100k or so, then RP after that. Both are great oils, and for the life of me I couldn't tell you why I switched.
This has to be one of the best threads on an R53 rebuild on NAM. Thanks, I appreciate this story and your rebuild gives me an idea of what I'll be looking forward to further down the road. I have a 2004 40th with full JCW package. Planning to keep this car indefinitely. Cheers and get rolling.
This has to be one of the best threads on an R53 rebuild on NAM. Thanks, I appreciate this story and your rebuild gives me an idea of what I'll be looking forward to further down the road. I have a 2004 40th with full JCW package. Planning to keep this car indefinitely. Cheers and get rolling.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. This week I will be turning 15,000 on the new rebuild. Not a single problem so far. But at 380,000 miles some rattles are starting to develop
Well as of yesterday its been one year and a little over 20,000 miles since it started up the first time after the rebuild. Its doing great, running stronger than ever, should be good for another 300k or so
Cat, no visible signs, although I never did climb under to see if the header was glowing red. The big signs, running warm/ hot, (was constantly at just over 200), and hill, the items would quickly jump up. Supercharger louder than normal, and loss of power.
Any idea who the clutch kit manufacturer was? I just did a search for "mini cooper R53 clutch kit" and didn't find any dual mass clutch kits on Amazon. Thanks
Thanks for the information. Trying to decide between this and the Valeo. I read the reviews on Amazon and it seems like some people have had problems with the throw out bearing. I assume yours is okay so far? Thanks again!
05-24-2016, 07:35 AM
