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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
When a water pump begins to fail, you'll notice that the car tends to overheat at low engine speed, such as sitting at a stoplight. When you accelerate, the engine temperature will drop. Now, this is not always indicative of a water pump, but a good starting point. You may also want to try squeezing the top radiator hose with the engine warmed up and running. You should feel pressure build up on the back of the hose and surge once it is released. If you feel no pressure, it's a fair bet that the water pump is failing. We go over a lot of information including a step by step process to install a new one in our DIY (image of it below). We have water pumps HERE and maybe for next time we have water pump kits HERE, which include the thermostat and a lot of other great cooling system parts to replace while doing the job.
Well, I replaced the housing, the lower hose, tightens the clamps and she was doing good for a few days. The, she left a puddle on the driveway again.
Same spot as before, I think......
Do the water pumps leak when they fail? Would it leak all of the time? Wouldn't it be making a nasty noise?
I'm at a loss at this point.
Possible two leaks, the water pump or the flange that is pon the peer part toward the water pump, when the water pump or flange leaks it usually comes down the front of the engine and center left side.
I finally have the car (it goes to college). The temp gauge is doing some really wide swings (from 1/2 hot to 1/8) and the heater works when it's up and gets cold when it drops.
I was thinking (after receiving a msg from ECS) that the system may have air trapped in it.
I finally have the car (it goes to college). The temp gauge is doing some really wide swings (from 1/2 hot to 1/8) and the heater works when it's up and gets cold when it drops.
I was thinking (after receiving a msg from ECS) that the system may have air trapped in it.
How can I confirm and burp the car?
You said that there was a coolant puddle on the floor again. Have you determined where that is coming from?
For bleeding the system this is from our DIY tech article:
The procedure for bleeding these cars seems somewhat sloppy and not too slick. With the bleed screws loosened, fill the expansion tank until fluid begins coming out of the bleed screw. There are two and we recommend alternating between the two screws with the engine fully warmed up. The idea is to wait until you see straight coolant flowing out each of the bleeder valves. Now start the engine and let it warm up, keeping an eye on the coolant level. It will likely drop as the thermostat opens. Turn the heater on to full blast. This will allow the coolant to enter the heater core of the car.
Continue filling until there are no more bubbles coming out. This, of course will mean that plenty of coolant will spill all over your radiator, and down onto the ground. Have a catch pan ready to capture this coolant spill. When no more bubbles exit out of the bleed screw, tighten the screw.
Now, run the engine until it reaches its operating temperature. Turn off the engine and let it cool down. Then, top off the coolant in the expansion tank to the appropriate level, if necessary.
We go over these steps in our article with pictures of the location of both bleeder screws if needed.
I finally have the car (it goes to college). The temp gauge is doing some really wide swings (from 1/2 hot to 1/8) and the heater works when it's up and gets cold when it drops.
I was thinking (after receiving a msg from ECS) that the system may have air trapped in it.
How can I confirm and burp the car?
Bleed and rebleed the system, get some coolant, fill it up. Re-bleed. Then let the car cool down and do the same again, start up and rebleed. Also run the heater and rev the engine a bit helps get the air out. Works the bubbles and air out, on the R52 i have to do it a couple times.
You said that there was a coolant puddle on the floor again. Have you determined where that is coming from?
For bleeding the system this is from our DIY tech article:
We go over these steps in our article with pictures of the location of both bleeder screws if needed.
Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Bleed and rebleed the system, get some coolant, fill it up. Re-bleed. Then let the car cool down and do the same again, start up and rebleed. Also run the heater and rev the engine a bit helps get the air out. Works the bubbles and air out, on the R52 i have to do it a couple times.
My son told me there was a new puddle under the car, but I'm not so sure it wasn't an old spot in the asphalt....
Well, I guess I shouldn't have celebrated so soon...... Son brought the car home for the holidays, parked it in the driveway, and in the morning, the FIRST thing I did was look under it...... Dry as a bone, YEAH!
So, I opened the bottle to check the level, PERFECT!
Then, I started to hear dripping....... sure enough, it's still leaking, from somewhere. Not much, but, I'm not satisfied with ANY leaking.......
I think it's time for front-end service mode without draining your coolant or removing the radiator. Just slide the radiator support panel forward enough to inspect the front of the engine with the car running to see if you can spot the source of the leak.
Howdy all! I can't believe it's been another year and this MINI is still dropping coolant..... I decided to drain it, remove the radiator and take a GOOD look and BINGO. It's leaking from the flange that connects the water pump to the engine.
Nice and wet around it and a puddle underneath.
Not an easy thing to see with the car all together.
Now, I'm removing the SC and I'm going to do an oils service while its apart.
Besides the O-rings in the flange, what else should I be taking care of while it's apart?
I also need a new radiator support (the big plastic part it sits in). Mine's broken.
Howdy all! I can't believe it's been another year and this MINI is still dropping coolant..... I decided to drain it, remove the radiator and take a GOOD look and BINGO. It's leaking from the flange that connects the water pump to the engine.
Nice and wet around it and a puddle underneath.
Not an easy thing to see with the car all together.
Now, I'm removing the SC and I'm going to do an oils service while its apart.
Besides the O-rings in the flange, what else should I be taking care of while it's apart?
I also need a new radiator support (the big plastic part it sits in). Mine's broken.
Aside from the O-rings (on both the water pump and the back of the flange) I would say the green SC gasket if you've never replaced it, a belt, and if you haven't done so already; seal the crank sensor with some black RTV.
Many times we're able to fix minor cracks in the core support with some ziptie surgery, but if it's in multiple pieces we recommend a new one.
Let us know if you need any parts or assistance, we can also get you a core support if you would like. (It may be cheaper to order it from a local dealer vs paying shipping on a box that big, but we are offering free shipping to the lower 48!)
Aside from the O-rings (on both the water pump and the back of the flange) I would say the green SC gasket if you've never replaced it, a belt, and if you haven't done so already; seal the crank sensor with some black RTV.
Many times we're able to fix minor cracks in the core support with some ziptie surgery, but if it's in multiple pieces we recommend a new one.
Let us know if you need any parts or assistance, we can also get you a core support if you would like. (It may be cheaper to order it from a local dealer vs paying shipping on a box that big, but we are offering free shipping to the lower 48!)
HA! That's what mine has already (zip tie surgery)..........
Well, I got her all back together.....test drove it, CHECK, Parked it in the garage and removed the old exhaust, CHECK..........
This morning..........coolant on the ground, D**N!!!%@@$^*&^#$%........Back apart she comes........D**M!!!@$#%&&^*)&*$#%^$@.....
(after I install the new, shiny exhaust from WMW)
12-16-2015, 10:11 AM
