2007 R56, HPFP replaced may 22, 2013. Part has a 2 year warranty. Last week, I get some robust sputtering on cold start, shut her down, started again and she was fine. The next day, I got vicious stuttering, so I shut her down, and it kept happening. I could push the gas to the floor, and would get nothing. A few hours later my husband tried it, and after two stalls, was able to rev it, we got some black puffs of smoke from the exhaust, but then it ran fine all the way home. The next morning, same story different day. 5-6 starts to get her going. Yesterday, 5-6 starts, and off to Mini we went. They couldn't recreate the issue, of course, yesterday. There are no fault codes being thrown, and they came back with an insane list of repairs, the one they state is causing the issue: the PCV, because they believe there is an oil leak. I informed them I didn't want to take it home until they are able to recreate the issue. They kept it overnight, told me it did "run rough" this morning, that there are no fault codes, so it's not the hpfp. I asked them if they ran a rail pressure test. They did not, and will not without the fault codes pointing to the hpfp. I am at wits end! I do not believe the PCV would cause these cold start issues of a car that is clearly NOT GETTING FUEL!! The dealership is two hours from home. I'm half tempted to go get her and take her to my indie shop to run the test. (at my expense) what would you all advise?

 

I think getting a specialist indy shop to take a look at it might not be a bad idea. This way you can have another opinion thrown into the mix about the issue.

-Luccia

 

Are they stalling you till 5/23/15? Then again without codes, many modern mechanics are lost.

I think you are best taking control of the issue, Mini will probably spend more of your money diagnosing this than a good indy.

 

Had the exact same symptoms with no codes even though engine was misfiring.
This went on for months.
It was the fuel pump.
Replaced and after 6 months the HPFP failed again; this time with very different symptoms>>>no power whatsoever.

 

Part of me wonders, but the other part of me thinks they are just grossly incompetent. This is the same place that had my car in 8 times for the CEL within a few months time. They seriously had the car more than I did. Looking back through the service records, one of the issues found was the coolant hoses being swapped. Presumably when they reassembled everything after they replaced my clutch. It took them three trips (a very long drive for me!) to figure that out.

 

If they didn't say anything about diagnostic charges, can they still charge me? I've never had to pay for dx at mini, but I've never taken the car without getting it fixed, either. They finally agreed to run the pressure test. Long story, but I got a second party (from another mini dealer of the same franchise) involved who called back and said the ones who have it would run the pressure test and let me see the results, making it sound as though they had already done it, which I very specifically asked about and was told no. I don't know if they were just trying to make it sound as though they weren't jerking me around to this other manager? He made it sound as though they had run it, and I just didn't accept the results, which was not the case. Very strange. Unless I completely misunderstood when I asked "did you run a pressure test?" And svc manager responded, "there are no fault codes to indicate it's the hpfp. We have prescribed test plans to work through based on the fault codes or lack of fault codes, and that's what they're doing."

 

Update: they ran the pressure test on an already warmed up car, so of course it came back normal. They finally told my husband they would run the pressure test in the am on a cold start if he would go ahead and agree to the new pcv/valve cover, spark plugs (because they're aftermarket) and oil change. He wants to give them the go ahead, but I feel like it's extortion!

 

For big organizations, that really is the only way to accomplish anything. Imagine if McDonalds told every franchise store that they can cook the burgers any old way they choose. Thats why I never eat at McD's and wouldn't go to Mini out of warranty for major repairs because the path to getting to a solution is often convoluted and pricey.

 

Interesting, the proper procedure for diagnosing the HPFP is to test both pump individually when cold. If the valve cover is leaking oil and you haven't ever replace it buy it from ECS Tuning and install it yourself, it's like $300 bucks and requires a torque wrench.

It's funny nowadays if there's no codes there's nothing more they can do to troubleshoot the problem. The techs need codes to tell them what's wrong with the car, very sad really. There all robots waiting for input, the ECU codes dictate the actions of the techs. Mechanics in the past had to be creative to properly diagnose cars, real experience, and troubleshooting experience.

 

Yes the valve cover will through a code and sometimes cause a rough idle: Poor vacuum. Look for oil residue or a crack, sometimes you will hear a hiss.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ment-help.html



OR

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lve-cover.html





Not so much on start up from what I found.



Does the HPFP prime when you open the door or unlock you MINI when it sets a while ? You will hear a little short whine noise.

HPFP: N14 Cooper S and N14 JCW engines:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-r56-jcw.html

 

do you run low or out of gas ? That kills fuel pumps.

 

So, I believe the saga has finally concluded. I finally got them to run the test, but they ran it on an already warmed up car. So, after much angst, and the SM getting pretty snippy with me, my husband got them to run it the next morning on a cold start, after agreeing to replace the PCV if the test came back fine. They called me the next morning, said it read 5.08, still indicating no issue, and they were starting the PCV, spark plugs, engine air filter and an oil change. I reluctantly relented but told them to keep it overnight, of course, to check the cold start again. Called me the next morning. HPFP failure. Guess they got the $800 they wanted out of us for work that I'm still not convinced was necessary. This is the last time I will ever take a car to Flow MINI of Winston Salem.

 

I have never run out of gas, but I do run it low. This is something I will be more diligent about.

 

Unfortunately, that's what most people deal with when going to the dealership. Glad the issue should be fixed though! Doing some of the DIY stuff will help with costs next time. We are getting in a new to us R56 and will be performing loads of DIY work to it, so if you have any questions on fixes, let us know so that we can add it to the list!

-Luccia

 

When my HPFP finely decides to take a dump (60k and still going strong) on me I'll just buy one at ECS Tuning and install it myself instead of going through hoops with the dealer. I fill up my tank when there are 4 bars showing, well I call them carrots.

 

Carrots or Candy Corn , I have heard both.

 

I forgot to mention that the PCV hoses don't properly seal as good as they did when the car was new, the high heat under the hood can cause the plastic connectors and o-rings to not have a perfect seal. I replaced my valve cover with a new one and still had oil seeping out, it was the two PCV hoses that no longer seal like they did when they were new. When I have the dough I plan on replacing both.

 

The biggest "tell" with HPFP issues is the same people have them fail repeatedly....
Running a car very low on fuel...say below about 1/8 of a tank in normal driving or 1/4 if "hooning" can result in airbubbles getting sent to the hpfp...
The hpfp needs lube...fuel is the lube...a bit of air...and they tear the tiny gears/rollers that function as the hpfp, and it fails....
So many folks see 30 miles on the range indicator, and they think "work is only 25 miles, i'll fuel up tomorrow".....
Do it a few times....
pump fails...
With port injection cars, something similar happens...the pump runs hot, gets hot spots, fail...
Biggest thing is THE SAME DRIVERS IN THE SAME CARS HAVE MULTIPLE FAILURES...
sure...some pumps will randomly fail, even if you do everything right....
Sorry to hear the OP has such a crappy dealer...shame they did not put 2+2 together and do the test when the car came in, code or no code....
And the pumps are getting pretty cheap...so cheap many folks say #### the warrenty...and an overnight stay and dealing with the warrenty....have seem posts saying an Indy shop can get pumps for under $400, and an hour or less to change....

 

You make an important point here, you have to think of the HPFP like you would driving low on oil causing the vacuum pump and or tensioner/timing chain failures. How many times have we heard of multiple timing chain failures?

 

My 2 cents: running low on fuel and burning out main fuel pumps was a partial myth (in the old days of leaded fuel; possibly & prior to pump shut off circuit)
Todays in tank FP do not fail from that: the windings in the pump are not lubricated from the fuel. Maybe cooled from the fuel but.... so many myths in this biz.
(there should be a show on Velocity "Automotive Myth Busters" there is so much BS out there.
With regard to the HPFP; possible but the symptoms do not appear wear related.
If the intake pump is doing its thing correctly, then the HPFP has plenty of fuel. If not, the car will not run. If it does not run then no fuel deprivation thus cannot cause damage.
Hopefully someone can chime in on this who has taken the pump apart and inspected.
I think I lost the theme of the thread. Sorry lol

 

I feel bad for OP here. Scammed out of $$$. I'd be complaining to dealer & Mini, then small claims court if needed.

The multiple pump problem on just certain cars is surely interesting, love to find the real truth on that.

 

I'm still on my original HPFP and never had any issues with it. I've also never ran any fuel with ethanol in my MINI. I think it leads to HPFP premature failure.

 

I'd agree...
Fuel is the lube that stops the pump from wearing...
E10 feels less oily if you work with it...so makes sense...it evoprates better.
A similar situation has occurred in the diesel hpfp world (I now drive a VW TDI) in which the newer ultra low sulfer diesel fuel is less slick...almost dry, and provides less lube than its euro cousin...results..lots of failed pumps in the US...also of note, most euro fuel us ethanol free, and the large moisture production of e10 fuels has resulted in different OIL requirements for US vs euro motors....
And the parallel here...higher ethanol content gasoline, providing less lube, resulting in more gasoline hpfp failures makes perfect sense too me...
Ethanol settles out of gasoline....so buy some fuel that has been sitting...you might get a higher % of ethanol then the max 10% spec....result...more wear, likewise, air bubbles from running low on fuel wear them fast too.
Some crap isn't rocket science...simpley correlation...the same folks tend to have multiple failures, they often run their tank very low...
Is it design...maybe, behavior, maybe, and maybe chance....
I say limit what you can...so refuel early...simple a free...costs maybe 10 extra minutes a year to maybe save some $$.

 

I'm at 60,000 miles with the original HPFP, hope my luck never runs out. Oh and I fill up when there are 4 bars left, yesterday I pumped 11.2 gallons into my tank which means I had 2 gallons left.

 

It the simple habits in life that save lots of money and grief...
Both in car ownership, and houses, etc.
Some folks have nearly zero issues....some have multiple...
I hate to just blame ANY owner, but sometimes little things like keeping the oil full, tires aired up, etc make a big difference.
So e cars, aka "toasters" to fine with minimal care....a mini is not one of them. Great rewards come with risk!!