Shaking while Idle
#1
Shaking while Idle
Hi Everyone,
I apologize if this topic has been covered, but I have been having a problem with my 2008 Mini manual Justa. When I start my car and drive, it'll be fine, but eventually it when I get to a stop light or idle, the car will start shaking a lot, but there is a consistent rhythm to the shaking. However, when I start driving or revving the engine, the shaking stops then starts again when I'm idle. I recently changed the ignition coils and spark plugs, but the problem is still present.
I'm wondering if this problem is related to the timing chain, tensioner, or possibly the car battery? The only reason I am questioning the battery is because when the internal cabin light is on (the light that turns on when the door is open) it kind of flickers with the shaking.
Any thoughts on what my problem might be?
I apologize if this topic has been covered, but I have been having a problem with my 2008 Mini manual Justa. When I start my car and drive, it'll be fine, but eventually it when I get to a stop light or idle, the car will start shaking a lot, but there is a consistent rhythm to the shaking. However, when I start driving or revving the engine, the shaking stops then starts again when I'm idle. I recently changed the ignition coils and spark plugs, but the problem is still present.
I'm wondering if this problem is related to the timing chain, tensioner, or possibly the car battery? The only reason I am questioning the battery is because when the internal cabin light is on (the light that turns on when the door is open) it kind of flickers with the shaking.
Any thoughts on what my problem might be?
#2
You might be pulling the engine down at idle if the alternator is dragging due to it or the battery. This would explain why if you 'rev' or raise the RPM, things smooth out.
any decent auto parts store or repair shop will check your battery and alternator condition for free. It is the original battery? If so it is probably past due . . . I'd also check conditions of all connection of battery cables ... tight? Clean?
this is where I'd start . . .
any decent auto parts store or repair shop will check your battery and alternator condition for free. It is the original battery? If so it is probably past due . . . I'd also check conditions of all connection of battery cables ... tight? Clean?
this is where I'd start . . .
#3
You might be pulling the engine down at idle if the alternator is dragging due to it or the battery. This would explain why if you 'rev' or raise the RPM, things smooth out.
any decent auto parts store or repair shop will check your battery and alternator condition for free. It is the original battery? If so it is probably past due . . . I'd also check conditions of all connection of battery cables ... tight? Clean?
this is where I'd start . . .
any decent auto parts store or repair shop will check your battery and alternator condition for free. It is the original battery? If so it is probably past due . . . I'd also check conditions of all connection of battery cables ... tight? Clean?
this is where I'd start . . .
#4
I usually just get DuraLast from AutoZone . . . any part store can fix you up ... or a special battery store like Batteries +, even WalMart.
a decent battery is gonna run a tad over $150 but should not exceed $200
you just need the right physical size (Group 47) ... the more amps the better!
AZ by me will even put in in for you - BUT they also test first!
p.s. I typically change out the battery at 5 years as preventive maintenance ..... to head off problems
BUT
that does not mean I recommend changing your battery to see IF it fixes your problem. Get it checked . . .
if you have another car, connect up that battery via jumper cables and see if the added juice causes the idle to smooth . . . crude but effective test.
a decent battery is gonna run a tad over $150 but should not exceed $200
you just need the right physical size (Group 47) ... the more amps the better!
AZ by me will even put in in for you - BUT they also test first!
p.s. I typically change out the battery at 5 years as preventive maintenance ..... to head off problems
BUT
that does not mean I recommend changing your battery to see IF it fixes your problem. Get it checked . . .
if you have another car, connect up that battery via jumper cables and see if the added juice causes the idle to smooth . . . crude but effective test.
Last edited by Capt_bj; 03-27-2015 at 06:27 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Miniwaukee
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
1
09-29-2015 09:22 AM