Help me diagnose a fuel problem! :)
#1
Help me diagnose a fuel problem! :)
2004 Mini Cooper Base (R50)
Codes:
P0128 (Coolant temp low), P0300 (Random cylinder misfire), P0313 (low fuel misfire)
Symptoms:
On partial throttle (just enough to keep it at speed) over 3K RPM (in any gear) the Service Engine light flashes and the car goes into limp mode until it is turned off and back on again. It performs just fine on WOT runs all the way to red line, and does fine if giving it moderate gas or on release in the 3K+ range.
It will only go into limp mode if keeping a steady throttle at 3k+ rpm for anything more than 4-5 seconds.
Work already done:
Plugs, wires, coil are all new and the contacts are still clean looking.
Compression is good.
Replaced fuel filter and cleaned out the housing.
Before I go replacing the entire fuel pump, is there anything else I could be looking at?
Thanks in advance
Codes:
P0128 (Coolant temp low), P0300 (Random cylinder misfire), P0313 (low fuel misfire)
Symptoms:
On partial throttle (just enough to keep it at speed) over 3K RPM (in any gear) the Service Engine light flashes and the car goes into limp mode until it is turned off and back on again. It performs just fine on WOT runs all the way to red line, and does fine if giving it moderate gas or on release in the 3K+ range.
It will only go into limp mode if keeping a steady throttle at 3k+ rpm for anything more than 4-5 seconds.
Work already done:
Plugs, wires, coil are all new and the contacts are still clean looking.
Compression is good.
Replaced fuel filter and cleaned out the housing.
Before I go replacing the entire fuel pump, is there anything else I could be looking at?
Thanks in advance
#2
#4
Got no clue to how to test or disconnect it. It's on the engine block well hidden. The flat rate book shows this as a 5 hour job for a $25 to $30 part.
PS: I was given a good talking to by the shop guy about using ONLY top tier fuels by the way, which sometimes I hadn't. That was 4 years and 40K miles ago and no problems since by being careful about where I shop at gasoline stores.
PS: I was given a good talking to by the shop guy about using ONLY top tier fuels by the way, which sometimes I hadn't. That was 4 years and 40K miles ago and no problems since by being careful about where I shop at gasoline stores.
#5
#6
#7
Back at it, again
Welp, after replacing the coolant temperature sensor and the thermostat, there was no improvement. I was trying to take a quick peek at the knock sensor, to make sure it was plugged in, but I cannot find where the plug end is. I know the sensor itself is under the intake manifold, and that the wire should lead to the right, under the fuel rail, but where does the actual plug location sit?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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#8
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#11
solved
Well, a few of the most frustrating months later, and the problem was solved with a new serpentine belt.
The old belt was looking cracked and ripped, so after replacing it (with a smaller size 6pk1030 that was the closest I could get to the stock 1033, but the shop got it on, just fine).
No more limp mode. Car runs like a champ.
The old belt was looking cracked and ripped, so after replacing it (with a smaller size 6pk1030 that was the closest I could get to the stock 1033, but the shop got it on, just fine).
No more limp mode. Car runs like a champ.
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