Frustrated - car dies after pushing clutch in.
#27
Did some quick stuff before I have head out for the night. Battery was 14 volts running, 12.9 off. Checked hoses again, PCV didn't have a hose clamp on it so I put one on (felt pretty tight anyway). The vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator was halfway off so I pushed it back on - that hose had a couple of knicks on it so I ordered a new one.
Will test the fuel pressure in morning. Bought the tester but checking with a hot engine doesn't appear to be a smart idea.
Will test the fuel pressure in morning. Bought the tester but checking with a hot engine doesn't appear to be a smart idea.
#29
Low fuel pressure cuts out the engine, causes a lot of hesitation & doesn't throw codes. Check it w/ a fuel pressure gauge screwed on the shraeder valve on the injector rail. R53 pumps are rated 5.1bar & should give around 55psi, while The R50 is at 4.6bar & should give a psi read around the mid 40s. If you yield lower, then dig into that. My split in-tank hose just gave me 22psi. Imagine the issues I had.
#31
#32
Just to cover everything, did you try to rev & press clutch while someone checked fuel pressure for you? Here is an excerpt from Pelican's tech articles:
"Another symptom of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. This could be a clear sign that you are living on borrowed time, and that you should replace the pump immediately. Check the electrical connections to the pump before you replace it to make sure that it's not an electrical problem."
Read entire write up here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
"Another symptom of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. This could be a clear sign that you are living on borrowed time, and that you should replace the pump immediately. Check the electrical connections to the pump before you replace it to make sure that it's not an electrical problem."
Read entire write up here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
#33
Just to cover everything, did you try to rev & press clutch while someone checked fuel pressure for you? Here is an excerpt from Pelican's tech articles:
"Another symptom of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. This could be a clear sign that you are living on borrowed time, and that you should replace the pump immediately. Check the electrical connections to the pump before you replace it to make sure that it's not an electrical problem."
Read entire write up here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
"Another symptom of failure is the pump getting stuck, and then finally kicking in after turning the ignition on and off a couple of times. This could be a clear sign that you are living on borrowed time, and that you should replace the pump immediately. Check the electrical connections to the pump before you replace it to make sure that it's not an electrical problem."
Read entire write up here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
#34
#35
I still think the wiring in the floor area around the clutch pedal is suspect from my experience with off road vehicles that get dunked during deep water fording, but I do agree with other posters that the fuel pump does some really odd things when the wiring is loose or the pump is starting to fail. The high rpm part of your problem description triggers the stall, which would then have nothing to do with the clutch at all. The pressure gauge you are using shows "live" readings and not just peak? IMHO, 35 is really too low, and that could be pump or rubber lines aging and "swelling". I believe you mentioned you put a new fuel filter in, correct one, right? No kinks in the fuel line and still looks like nice hard rubber?
#36
You can also try resetting the all of the engine adaptations. I've done this a time or two, and it may have helped.
Mine has done this kind of stall once or twice - with AC on, turning into a parking space. I think sometimes it's possible to lift off the throttle just right so that the ECM doesn't go to idle fuel trim quickly enough and the car dies.
Mine has done this kind of stall once or twice - with AC on, turning into a parking space. I think sometimes it's possible to lift off the throttle just right so that the ECM doesn't go to idle fuel trim quickly enough and the car dies.
#37
So it did not stall? Did you say before that it would at only higher revs? Kinda hard to recreate that one in the driveway!
I still think the wiring in the floor area around the clutch pedal is suspect from my experience with off road vehicles that get dunked during deep water fording, but I do agree with other posters that the fuel pump does some really odd things when the wiring is loose or the pump is starting to fail. The high rpm part of your problem description triggers the stall, which would then have nothing to do with the clutch at all. The pressure gauge you are using shows "live" readings and not just peak? IMHO, 35 is really too low, and that could be pump or rubber lines aging and "swelling". I believe you mentioned you put a new fuel filter in, correct one, right? No kinks in the fuel line and still looks like nice hard rubber?
I still think the wiring in the floor area around the clutch pedal is suspect from my experience with off road vehicles that get dunked during deep water fording, but I do agree with other posters that the fuel pump does some really odd things when the wiring is loose or the pump is starting to fail. The high rpm part of your problem description triggers the stall, which would then have nothing to do with the clutch at all. The pressure gauge you are using shows "live" readings and not just peak? IMHO, 35 is really too low, and that could be pump or rubber lines aging and "swelling". I believe you mentioned you put a new fuel filter in, correct one, right? No kinks in the fuel line and still looks like nice hard rubber?
The hoses looked fine when I replaced the filter - no splitting or anything that an untrained person like me would see.
I had the battery off the car once for a few days. Wouldn't that have reset everything?
#38
The car dropping below idle and then idling fine is pretty normal. Mine has done that for as long as I can remember.
Resetting the engine idle adaptation can improve it over time. On mine, right after resetting that particular adaptation, it would drop pretty significantly before stabilizing. Then, as it "learned" the adaptation, it wouldn't drop as much. Now, it's really not bad at all.
#39
Resetting is worth a try. A failing fuel pump will either deteriorate gradually showing more & more symptoms than just stalling or die instantly like a buddy's R50 CVT a few days back. He ran the car on empty. He wasn't aware that our pumps use fuel as its coolant. After refilling, it simply refused to start.
#42
1 VACUUM PIPE 13531504754
I can't remember where each one is located on car right now. There is another one that goes to fuel tank vent that was $40 - did not order.
#43
Should it be your pump, get the VDO, MINI OEM supplier, 1/3 cheaper & free shipping:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2534%2529%2520
While you're at it, include the cheap fuel rail pressure regulator vac tube around $8:
13-51-7-515-136
Crank case vent valve around $20+: 11-12-7-829-990 for 02-6/04 build w/ 8mm bolt hole,
or 11-12-7-577-568 for 04 up.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2534%2529%2520
While you're at it, include the cheap fuel rail pressure regulator vac tube around $8:
13-51-7-515-136
Crank case vent valve around $20+: 11-12-7-829-990 for 02-6/04 build w/ 8mm bolt hole,
or 11-12-7-577-568 for 04 up.
#45
Should it be your pump, get the VDO, MINI OEM supplier, 1/3 cheaper & free shipping:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2534%2529%2520
While you're at it, include the cheap fuel rail pressure regulator vac tube around $8:
13-51-7-515-136
Crank case vent valve around $20+: 11-12-7-829-990 for 02-6/04 build w/ 8mm bolt hole,
or 11-12-7-577-568 for 04 up.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2534%2529%2520
While you're at it, include the cheap fuel rail pressure regulator vac tube around $8:
13-51-7-515-136
Crank case vent valve around $20+: 11-12-7-829-990 for 02-6/04 build w/ 8mm bolt hole,
or 11-12-7-577-568 for 04 up.
#47
Watching this thread closely, fuel hoses and pumps are common problems on cars as they get older especially in my climate.
#48
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...3-1665978.html
About $100 cheaper than from the dealer.
#50