Clutch Safety Switch
#1
#2
Check your fuses first, then the connector which is located on the Clutch Master Cyl. under the left side dashboard. You should be able to disconnect and bridge across the terminals to fool the system. If it is a bad switch, the car will start w/o depressing the clutch pedal. I've got a Porsche 993 that intermittantly wouldn't start. It was the switch.
#3
Check your fuses first, then the connector which is located on the Clutch Master Cyl. under the left side dashboard. You should be able to disconnect and bridge across the terminals to fool the system. If it is a bad switch, the car will start w/o depressing the clutch pedal. I've got a Porsche 993 that intermittantly wouldn't start. It was the switch.
#4
#6
Status Update
Made a jumper to fake the system that the clutch was in - No start.
Checked the voltage at the starter solenoid with clutch in and key turned to start - 0V
Checked the voltage feeding the clutch safety switch from fuse 6 - 3.2-3.5 mV (I was expecing to see the same 11.9V volts seen at fuse 6)
What is supposed to be seen at the switch for it to operate?
Checked the voltage at the starter solenoid with clutch in and key turned to start - 0V
Checked the voltage feeding the clutch safety switch from fuse 6 - 3.2-3.5 mV (I was expecing to see the same 11.9V volts seen at fuse 6)
What is supposed to be seen at the switch for it to operate?
#7
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#8
#9
I did find and download a good set of wiring diagrams labeled for a 2006 (I am assuming any differences will be minor) so I can start tracing things out. One interesting observation is the diagram shows 4 wires to the clutch safety switch.
Pin 1: Brn/Blk - To Ground
Pin 2: Blu/Brn - To DME (Pin 4)
Pin 3: Vio/Gry - To Fuse 6 Fuse Panel 2
Pin 4: Blu/Blk - To Electronic Immobilizer Control Unit Pin 8
I do not have a wire on Pin 2, and it looks like there never was a wire on Pin 2. Either I never had this wire on mine, or it mysteriously disappeared. My MINI is a 2004 R50. In any case I am going to start with the battery and work my way through.
Why I keyed in on the Clutch Safety Switch as a possibility to begin with is I recently changed the master and slave cylinders on the clutch circuit.
#10
#11
In checking the circuits, since the same fuse feeds the brake light switch as well as the clutch switch I dediced to see if the brake lights come on thus indicating that power is gettin through the fuse. Visual inspection of the fuse it looks good, but wanted a backup check. What I found on the latest test venture is there was no door open/key in chime, and the left brake light and center brake light are on with noone applying the brakes.
More searching the diagrams.
#13
Went through the troubleshooting again. Brake light quirk went away (???), all inputs to the immobilization module were good (~11.5V each), the output to the starter was 45mV. At that point I put it on my trailer and took it to Century MINI. They said it looked like the program in the immobilization module went away (No explanation on how that can happen and after a $110 diagnostic fee, and a $110 programing fee), and they reprogrammed the immobilization module. Picked the car up Wednesday morning, and it ran fine the rest of the day. Got in it Thursday to go to work, and no crank. Century sent a tow truck at no charge to pick it up. They said it could be either the immobilization module, or the DME. They are going to replace the immobilization module ($131.00), and see if that does it. If it ends up being the DME ($1600) it will get expensive. I am hoping it is just the immobilization module.
#15
#18
My 2005 R50 would occasionally not start, but all dash lights would come on and the battery is good. Frustrating when a problem is intermittent. Finally, my Mini stopped starting altogether. In another thread a guy said he used a magnet on the hall effect sensor which is near the clutch pedal. Works! Unbelievably easy. I put the magnet there, removed it, and it started. You don't have to use it every time. Now I keep the magnet in the glove box. Big help by the Forum.
#19
New quirk on old problem
My 2004 R50 had the same intermittent starting problem that many of you have had. After the 2nd time having it towed home, only to start up no problem after AAA left, I replaced the clutch switch. After a few days, same intermittent problem reoccurs. So I attached a wire with alligator clips to the starter solenoid, and tapped the other end to the battery positive terminal. Started just fine so I secured the other end to a convenient non conducting tab under the hood and left it there, so I had a ready emergency start backup solution. Several weeks go by while Mini tries to figure out what I've done to foil her, and no starting problems. Finally, she comes up with a new way to get me. I'm on the way down the road, and she starts stalling, and restarting in kickstart mode. Limped her home and now here she sits. Don't see how this is related in any way to the original problem, but maybe some Mini whisperer out there might have some suggestions.
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