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Hello all, new owner of a 2011 S hardtop, trying to diagnose my first codes. I got the engine shaped indicator as I was teaching my son how to drive a stick (ie - several shaking stalls), figured I could clear it with my reader. It showed code P0128, but would not clear yesterday. Today, I get codes P0116 and P0118 along with P0128, fans on right after cold start, still won't clear. I saw the youtube and text writeup on how to access the secret menu, did a software reset, no dice, then scrolled to read the actual engine temperature, reading nothing but x's . . . so, I figure either he jerked the engine temperature sensor plug loose or the sensor failed.
Trying to locate that sensor, I think (based on my look at the few pictures online) it is up under the hose that goes from the air filter housing(?) to the turbo screwed into the housing I presume the thermostat is in. If it is the vertical plug, I wiggled around and got my finger on it, seems firmly plugged, but that's just a finger. Is this it? What other faults would there be for my symptoms?
The symptoms you just described is a good indication that your t-stat has taken a poop, well actually the coolant temp sensor has taken a poop, which is located in the t-stat, and unfortunately they are a unit, meaning you can't walk in and buy a replacement sensor for you t-stat from MINI, so you are forced to buy the whole t-stat housing with t-stat and cts. This is a known issue/quite common with MINI's and they have a replacement t-stat with updated CTS. If you look @ the 2013's they now have a cts in line with the upper radiator hose pre the t-stat. Replacing your t-stat is a simple job, and you seem somewhat mechanically inclined. If you need help with removal and best practice install lmk.
It's a pretty easy job, and if you want to look at something before you start have a look here
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2007 R56 MCS Lightning Blue with Black Roof / Black Motegi MR-119 / CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna / Chrome Blackout / WMW Diverter Valve / OutMotoring Black Gauges / BSH OCC / ALTA CAI / DIY Rear Seat Delete / 3rd Brake Light PULSAR kit / Wishlist a mile long / MINIs of New Hampshire / NH MINI Meets
Does look like an easy job. This would be warranty work @ 18k miles, no? If I can't arrange something convenient, I'll do it myself. Your guide is very informative.
I would think if you're only at 18k, you'd want want to chat with your dealer about a replacement. Not my guide, but it is the one that I used when I did the swap. Good luck.
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2007 R56 MCS Lightning Blue with Black Roof / Black Motegi MR-119 / CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna / Chrome Blackout / WMW Diverter Valve / OutMotoring Black Gauges / BSH OCC / ALTA CAI / DIY Rear Seat Delete / 3rd Brake Light PULSAR kit / Wishlist a mile long / MINIs of New Hampshire / NH MINI Meets
Yes, if its a 2011 and only has 18k on the vehicle it would be considered w9 work and be covered parts and labor by MINI. Find your local MINI dealership or authorized MINI service shop and have them run an I9 Multi-Point Inspection on the Vehicle as well as report the vehicle has a CEL and that the vehicles Cooling Fans have been running excessively. This will allow the Service Writer to easily pin-point the issue and save you down time from your vehicle. The job honestly though takes about 45 min to do (removal, install and bleeding of cooling system) for the average technician and if the appointment is scheduled well in advance, you could have it serviced as a waiter and be in and out of the dealership in roughly 1.5 hours (service, test drive).
Last edited by boOst spIKe; 09-03-2012 at 03:43 PM.
The symptoms you just described is a good indication that your t-stat has taken a poop, well actually the coolant temp sensor has taken a poop, which is located in the t-stat, and unfortunately they are a unit, meaning you can't walk in and buy a replacement sensor for you t-stat from MINI, so you are forced to buy the whole t-stat housing with t-stat and cts. This is a known issue/quite common with MINI's and they have a replacement t-stat with updated CTS. If you look @ the 2013's they now have a cts in line with the upper radiator hose pre the t-stat. Replacing your t-stat is a simple job, and you seem somewhat mechanically inclined. If you need help with removal and best practice install lmk.
boOst spIKe, you wouldn't happen to have an image or pic of this revised CTS location. I have a late build 12' and am curious to see if mine was equipped with the updated CTS location.
__________________ "Roach" 2012 MCSa Coupe, Eclipse Gray, black conical, black headlights, sport pkg (stock susp.), technology pkg., heated seats, 215/45/17 Michelin PSS, MM insert, 19mm Hotchkis RSB, Borla Touring, TCE/Wilwood DP6 with JCW 316mm rotors, rear JCW brakes, 5mm H&R's front/back.
Hello all, new owner of a 2011 S hardtop, trying to diagnose my first codes. I got the engine shaped indicator as I was teaching my son how to drive a stick (ie - several shaking stalls), figured I could clear it with my reader.
You have a warranty for a reason....and clearing a code for them to read makes it a bit counter productive for a resolution.
Call your dealer, make an appointment.
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2003 R53 - DS - 177K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
'79; 02 S {02 - 09}, 07 S
