IIRC, a new line will have a little flex at the crimp, due to the rubber o-ring. Just before mine failed it had some significant in/out and side flex, but was weeping only a little oil. When the engine was running, oil pressure held the joint sealed, .....until the toasted o-ring finally failed.

 

I'm at 55,000 miles so I took it in today to get the entire oil line replaced, I consider that at this mileage it's about the average lifespan for these turbo oil feed lines. Glad I caught it before it started leaking!

 

I think I'm having this issue now. ('09 Clubman S w/ 56k miles on it)

As someone mentioned in this thread, mine started exactly after doing my latest oil change. So weird. At first I thought it could've been an issue with my oil selection. I went from Castrol Edge 0w-40 to Royal Purple 5w-30.

I'm not getting any oil drops on the ground but a significant burning oil smell when I drive.

Yesterday I was able to move the hardline on top of the turbo in and out.

When I started the car, before it got hot, I pushed on it and noticed the pressure had moved the line to the out position of its travel. I gently pushed it back in and saw oil oozing out.

Before the oil change, nothing was leaking or burning anywhere. I'm still going to check to make sure the oil filter cap and o-ring are sealed correctly. Else I'll chalk it up to the turbo oil feed lines.

I've double checked my oil level and I'm still good and I'll continue to keep an eye on it until I can order the parts and get time to do this install.

I'd really like to do a downpipe at this time but its not in my budget.

I also watched that video for putting the car in rad service mode. I understand it's tight in there but damn, that's a lot of work for 2 1/2" of extra clearance.

 

The job is doable with just removing the downpipe and heatshielding around it. Personally I wouldn't spend the hours to put the car in service mode to do the job.

We have a kit available that includes everything required to complete the job and should keep the leak from ever reappearing.

Super Kit

Give us a call if you have any questions or concerns, but from what you've described you're in for a feed line at the least. The crankcase is part of the vacuum system, so if the fill cap wasn't sealed properly you would have a large vacuum leak accompanied by poor running.

Nick
Detroit Tuned
586-792-6464

 

I didn't put the car into service mode. Make sure that you have a variety of 10mm tools (ratcheting wrench and 1/4" short socket were most common) and plenty of patience, and you can get the heat shields off.

If you can, I would also check under the car to see if there is any sign of the oil filter housing leaking. If you see any oil on the front of the block, right above the downpipe, this is likely the oil filter housing gasket. This is right next to the turbo oil line fitting, and is about $50 to replace the seals in this and the cooler. I would also recommend getting a new exhaust clamp if yours has never been off. These are additional $$, but if you get a oil leak, you will need to remove the dp and heat shields all over again.

Mike

 

Thanks, Nick.

Not the fill cap, but the filter cap. Is that what you meant? I was thinking that maybe I borked the o-ring when I put it on or something but it seemed to go back together ok.

I need to pop the hood with it running and good and warm so I can try to see where the burnoff is coming from.

So, the oil filter housing itself is removable from the block and not built in? Weird design isn't it?

And you don't need to drain the coolant or change the oil if you're just doing the feed lines correct? Only if you're doing the filter housing gasket as well?

 

Yeah, the filter housing is separate from the block, and an oil cooler is mounted to the housing as well. If you change these gaskets there is a chance of contaminating the oil with coolant, so the oil should be changed.

If you only change the turbo oil line then you don't need to drain the coolant or change the oil.

Mike

 

+1 on the oil change, and making sure things are clean before the re-install. If you are doing the oil filter housing gaskets at the same time. Take the Time and you can clean the housing side ( oil and coolant ). You will leak a bit of coolant. I kept a clean paper towel and dabbed the areas to reduce the coolant to oil contamination. I also flushed the coolant and the thermostat housing was I was there also. Some mild cleaner will also help get the gunk off of the aluminium where the gasket and dirt left a mark.

Good luck and watch your hand , they might get beat up reaching around.

Part are back on this page

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...leaking-5.html

 

You know after my last oil change (Royal Purple 5w-30 to Mobil 1 0w-40) together with BG EPR I noticed I can also noticed the hard oil line moves in and out easily, it didn't move before and that's probably because that BG stuff got rid of all the carbon inside the hard oil line. So I went to my Mini dealer and asked my SA is I could look under the hood of a new 2013 (still have some) and with the brand new Mini the oil line moved freely just like ours.

Hey Nick what is the core of your oil line made of since it moves so freely?

 

Our line is braided stainless with a burst strength of 3000 psi, crimped on compression fittings, fitted to the engine with banjos.

The MINI line is a solid steel line that uses an oring type seal on the ends (which is the failure everyone is seeing).

 

I always thought your line had rubber at its center core, surprised Mini hasn't evolved yet. I'm mean the heat shield can only do so much.

 

Sorry, it does have a Teflon core, capable of withstanding temperatures the car will produce.

 

I bought my car used and when I gave the local MINI dealer my VIN, the heat shield was on the list of things done but I don't have the shield for the oil line.

 

I think the OEM design is stupid because you are relying on some rubber o-ring to provide oil to your turbo, talk about an a weak link! When I install a down pipe I guess it makes sense to go ahead and do the oil filter housing and oil feed line to turbo. All three can have the potential to ruin your engine and/or turbo. So many weak links, vacuum pump anyone?

 

The heat shield was MINIs way of "fixing" the oil line leak.

 

The heat shield looks like this and is installed and wrapped around that top line towards the engine. That's how you know you have it.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ld-recall.html

 

Yep. And I don't have it. But service records for my VIN say it was installed. Kooky.

 

Maybe someone took it off ? If you have the stock lines I would get it on. ~$6 right now.

 

Well, I already think it's too late for that.

Braided stainless lines coming soon.

 

Really, it's to late in the game to make much of a difference.

 

My 08 R56 just turned 52K. noticed a little oil drip and smelled the burnt oil. Looks like the Oil Return Line and not the feed line. I see a little oil seeping from the rubber to the metal. I just ordered the Detroit Tuned super kit that a friend recommended. Chad at Detriot Tuned was very helpful noticing I ordered an extra heat shield and called me to fix my mistake.
After reading all about these problems I'm glad I caught it in time.I will do it myself since I have a shop, lift and tools. I'm not a mechanic but I have mechanical aptitude. Wish me Luck

 

Not that you need to spend more money, but you are right there if you want to replace your oil filter housing gasket, sooner or later it will be leaking.

If your downpipe has never been off, then I recommend you get a new exhaust clamp, because the old one will be rusty and won't spring open like a new one.

Just be patient getting the heat shields off. I had a lot of luck with a ratcheting wrench.

Also, the bolt on the upper-to-lower shield at the passenger front is slotted, so you only have to unscrew the bolt a few turns, rather than get it all the way off. I don't remember if any others were like that as well. I did a 'how to' on replacing the oil filter housing gaskets that has some pics.

Have fun,
Mike

 

I believe Mini should have made their oil feed line for turbo one solid line (even at the neck) this way you you don't have to worry about some rubber o-ring failure. The only thing you would have to worry about is corrosion in the hard line. The coolant lines to the turbo are solid with zero play at the connector, those have no o-ring to fail.

But what do I know I'm not an engineer.

 

I have a 2 post and 4 post lift. Is it better to do it on the lift since I have to remove the downpipe? I think by the pics I will need to use it.

 

There is a lot of up and down to get the heat shields off. Some bolts are accessible from both top and bottom. Having a lift will help you.

Mike