Thanks for your reply. The dipstick broke in half because it has been lodged button of timing chain. I guess one of the rails broke and this contributed to the broken dipstick. I just spoke to my local Orlando mini dealer and they said they don't have to look at chain itself or even measure the length they just look at the tensioner. I know my tensioner is from 2011 so not the latest one :( The dealer is not cooperative at all.

 

You are very fortunate to have a dealership like that, unfortunately I don't think that is the norm when it comes to dealerships covering timing chains out of warranty or not covered under the so called "campaign".
When I took my Mini in for my concern over cold start rattle my dealership's maintenance manager let me know in no uncertain terms that the only problems with timing chains were due to owners not keeping oil in their cars.
They told me my Mini sounded ok to them so I told them it still had over three years warranty left (counting the CPO extended warranty) so I would just drive it then and if it fails they can cover it under the warranty.
If one understands the faults of the factory dipstick and knows how to get a clean reading checking your oil, while a little time consuming, as long as you check it frequently you "should" be OK.
One possible exception on this would be if your vacuum pump O-ring starts to leak the vacuum pump will actually suck the oil right out of the car in a very short time frame and cause the vacuum pump bearing to freeze up instantly lunching your engine. This, however, would not be the owners failure to keep oil in the car but rather a parts failure that should be covered under warranty. I would hope the dealership would not insist the owner was at fault because the oil level was low and resulted in the failure.
I certainly don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about our dealership given their position that timing chain failures are due to the owners not keeping proper oil levels in their Mini and not because of a faulty parts design.
We have only one dealership in our state so we don't have the luxury of shopping around for a better dealership.
Wish all Mini owners were as lucky as you to have such a great dealership.

 

My Mini dealer (Irvine Mini) is telling me that my timing chain is 66.42mm of slack 68mm being too much, so it's within spec. I told my SA that I wanted a new tensioner installed anyway and he told me that my cam timing is off by 1 degree, isn't that what the Vanos solenoid is for? On top of that my SA gave me an estimate for labor on Tuesday to install a new tensioner 1 hour $165. I just got off the phone with him and he told me that the labor for installing a new tensioner would take 3 hours $165 x 3 = $495, when I told him I have the estimate in hand from Tuesday that he gave me showing 1 hour labor for the tensioner he stated "whatever that's fine."

He's not comfortable installing a new tensioner as long as the timing is off by 1 degree. I feel like their being dishonest at this point, they always treated me right when using my extended warranty but now that I'm paying for it I'm treated like a fool and I'm not getting hosed! He also wants to install 2 new cam bolts...

 

I AM LUCKY I only bought these 2 Minis from CarMax because I interviewed the service shop in Plano Texas that was going to honor the warranty work before buying the car and I got extended warranty up to 100K on both cars. And the dealer is one of Dallas oldest and largest dealerships with a good internet record. So yeah. I know there's a ton of bull on repairing these.

RE: MINI DEALERS IN OC. I also live in Malibu California but when in Texas I take the Minis (both JCW and Mini base) to Mini of Plano IN California I don't take the Minis TO ANY DEALER because I CANNOT TRUST A MINI DEALER IN SOCAL. ONLY THE M SHOP IN EAGLE ROCK. See Paolo the manager. He knows me. They can give the straight dope on the timing chain. He's not a dealer so don't expect the campaign gift. But they're super honest and total Mini. Great rep. If I lived in OC I would drive it up to The M Shop and just rent a car for the day. It'll cost about $1600 replace the chain. But those guys are solid.

BOTTOM LINE: You hardly have any leverage to get the dealer to fix this. And unless you have a warranty you'll have to pony up for the replacement. It's $1600-1700 bucks. AND IF YOU HEAR THE DEATH RATTLE - REPLACE IT. Not even kind of a rattle. ANY RATTLE. REPLACE. Or you'll end up throwing away the engine. Then the car is zero.

 

I still have a month left on my warranty 2 years/unlimited mileage for the timing chain and all components, my timing chain is well within spec (66mm) and I am going ahead with the newer updated longer tensioner. I was able to feel the difference between my outdated tensioner and the new updated tensioner and will say the newer one is incredibly smoother when pushed in compared to the older one!!

The tech took me back to the service area and showed me that my static cam timing is off by a degree, the cam timing locking tool wasn't able to be flat on top of each other. My dealer is the one who supposedly reset the cam timing almost 2 Years ago and I asked why they wouldn't honor their parts and labor warranty, no answer, complete silence.

They want $600 to reset the static cam timing even though the valve cover is off, special tensioner measuring tool is also installed. The cam locking tools are also installed, so they want $600 (4 hrs x $150) to remove 2 cam bolts and reset the timing! This is criminal imo as I have spent thousands of dollars here, there's no way they reset the cam timing 2 years ago.

 

RESET THE TIMING CHAIN??? hahaha sounds like bull. I don't know. Sounds like your getting ripped. Don't pay. Report them to the California Auto Board. That'll make them button up pretty quick and stop the BS.

You're in Mission Viejo. I know where that is. South of the El Toro Y. Just an hour from Eagle Rock without traffic. Take it to The M Shop. Just up the I5 towards Pasadena.

Get a 2nd opinion.

 

This is just depressing to read, I wonder what the chances are of getting a decent dealership that's not going to rip you off. Even under warranty it appears they are not going to stand behind their workmanship on the previous installation. Wow, what a rip-off. Since the dealership is in rip off mode, looks like your only option is to get your Mini as far from this sorry a** dealer as you can and try to find an honest dealer or private Mini mechanic. Very sad indeed. God, I hate having to keep our Mini under a "hope and a prayer" that my dealership won't jack me around should I need them to honor our warranty. Really sucks.

 

Correct,

Outer gasket you can get separate , Inner gasket on the main tow halves is not a separate part.

 

I do have an honest indy shop that I take my Mini to (Miniworx), thing is only reason I came to Irvine Mini was because the timing chain and all related parts are still under warranty. Remember these guys tried to charge me $450 (3.0 hours) just to install a new tensioner, guess they forgot about the quote the SA gave me days ago. I walked to the service area and told the tech I needed something out of my car except I gave that excuse to see how long it took him to install the new tensioner, 1 minute! Apparently that doesn't matter, the tech and SA kept repeating that the cam timing changes over time, I'm like every 2 years?! They sound more like car salesman that an SA and a technician. I'm currently eating all the courtesy donuts and coffee.

 

I just spoke with John at Miniworx and he advised me of my rights, Irvine Mini must comply with my 2 Year Unlimited warranty on part and labor, this includes the cam timing. If I can't get them to fix the cam timing I'm to speak with the Regional Rep who will most likely tell them to fix the cam timing no charge to me, if this doesn't happen I will files a complaint with the Bureau of Automotive Repair. Mini dealers don't want complaints against them, I'm not going to back down. I have a warranty for parts and labor period!

 

JUST FILE WITH THE BAR. Better to have filed and cancel.

 

Mini USA doesn't have a regional rep, the claims department (Mini USA) states that they stand behind the dealers diagnostic. What a bunch of BS!! I will NEVER go to any Mini Dealer ever again! They were going to charge me $450 or 3 hours just to install a new chain tensioner, thank God I had in hand a quote from them saying it takes 1 hour to install new chain tensioner?! Irvine Mini wants $802.47 to properly adjust the cam timing, their prices change just as much as the stock market!

 

OF THIS THREAD. DRIVING ME CRAZY. Too much drama. hahaha

Stop being shocked and just file the BAR complaint. 2nd thought. Don't call me. And good luck with it.

 

I just filed a complaint online. However on my way home my boost tube popped off on the freeway, almost 100% percent power loss! I barely got back to the dealer and ask the SA if his tech could finish his job I paid him for, they were kissing my... He apologized more times than I could count. I though my timing chain locked up on me, boy did I swallow my heart when I lost power. It's good my tensioner didn't back out while driving, oh wait that could still happen.

 

Unfortunately the ownership of a Mini can at times lead to a lot of unwanted drama.

 

I dealt with South Bay Mini following buying my r55 10'
They handled a ton of stuff being 3600$ of stuff just after I purchased it.
Really were stand up and even better unsolicited. I called he said their were issues but then said they were handled. I ever buy from a dealer it will be from them just because of that visit. Very impressed
Also the guys at MINIworx have been super on point to me, being Culver City shop, not too far from the Bu

 

Miniworx in Lake Forest is exceptional and honest, I wanted to do some preventive maintenance on certain parts that hadn't gone bad yet, John told me I'm just wasting my money. I was caught off guard by it, definitely different behavior than from the dealer.

 

I have a Mini Cooper S with 112000 miles, no noise runs great. Should I replace the tensioner and or the full chain and associated parts as a preventive measure? Plan to keep it till at least 200000 miles if possible.

 

I think you should have the timing chain slack at least measured before doing anything, if chain slack is 68 mm it's time for a new full chain and associated parts. If you take it to a dealer make them show you the measured slack in person and make this request before any work is done. Just so you know if your timing chain was at 68 mm slack you would know about it, you would hear a loud continuous rattle at idle usually between 800 - 1800 RPM. I have my timing chain slack measured every year, it only cost the $150 diagnostic fee. I had them install the newest 5th Gen tensioner as a precaution.

 

Is the MC chain rail the same as timing chain?

Took my car in to get repair and I had a free MCS R56 Chain Rail.

Am I in good shape for no timing chain problem with my engine?

Sorry I don't know anything about cars.

 

I have a 2007 Mini S, hardtop and just went through an extensive replacement of the thermostat ($600), then the oil pump ($600), and then the air intake valve ($800) and now my independence BMW specialist tells me that the timing belt is gone as well...all within the past year. I was driving down the highway and without warning the car started to buck and heave and then the engine light went on, then the oil light went on. Had it towed to my independent mechanic, BMW certified and part of the Autobon society and working on them for over 20 + years and former BMW employee, and BMW or Mini would not take his word that the timing belt was gone. All this is past the warranty, as both the dealerships and the corporate headquarters have stated and they both advised that even if I do take it to the dealership for review, the likelihood of them assisting with the replacement of the belt is very unlikely as that the car is over 8 years old. I am very disappointed in the fact that neither Mini or BMW would honor their product by offering assistance. The car has 85k miles and should not have had to go through this much mechanical issues at this millage. At this rate, this car will not make it past 1000k miles, which is why I purchased it and walked away from Honda because I had to maintain the timing belt. My mechanic said he has never seen anything like this before in his past 20 years of fixing BMW products and feels that this is incompetence to the max. DO NOT BUY the 2007 Mini Cooper S at all. It has known issues that have been fixed in newer generations, but neither Mini or BMW will stand by the product for this generation. BTW, there was never a campaign out for the recall for these cars, regardless of what rumor out there states. Will NEVER buy BMW or Mini product again. I will go back to the Honda or Acura again for reliability and warranty.

 

Every now and then we get member's who come in here with posts exactly like this, those that do no research at all before buying.

This timing chain issue started 8 years ago on the first 2007 MCS's and it seems as though you have just discovered it for the first time only after buying you MCS, sorry about your troubles but a little research and you would have saved yourself a lot of grief. There is a campaign to fix the timing chain for free, which Mini/BMW paid 100% of the cost for all new timing chain components on my 2007 MCS even out of warranty only in the US. Chances are you MCS was already fixed under warranty once probably before you bought it, Mini/BMW won't fix it for free a second time. However if you're lucky enough to have an honest Mini dealer in your area I have heard of dealers paying all costs a second time for a failed timing chain, rare though.

Buying any brand of car with 85,000 miles is a big risk these days especially when the person buying it doesn't do any research for that year, make and model to see if there were any manufacture problems. Also you have no idea if the previous owner kept up with the above average maintenance these R56 Mini's require, like adding 1 quart of oil at least every 1,000 miles. If this wasn't done and the Mini ran on low oil even for a short time, there wouldn't be enough oil to properly provide enough oil pressure to push the timing chain tensioners oil plunger out far enough to tension the chain properly. The chain would then slap around and stretch causing well what happened to you.

I don't know of many who have had to replace an oil pump since they run off a chain from the crankshaft and is lubricated by oil, or not.

List of issues,
1. HPFP.
2. Timing chain.
3. Thermostat housing = made of plastic.
4. Water pump = made of plastic.
5. Valve cover = made of plastic.
6. Carbon covered intake valves = require frequent walnut blastings.
7. Piston denigration, a casting flaw.
8. List goes on...

 

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So glad you feel you could blast me on this forum! Makes me feel very comfortable sharing my opinion...no more respect than the dealership. I purchased the car with 42K miles in 2012. My VIN has/had no recall on it for this issue, just the lovely water pump. As for research, in 2012 the timing belt was not a "chronic" issue blasted on the web. Regardless, the manufacturer should stand by it's product, I believe that was my point.

 

The chain rail is one of the plastic guides that the chain (like a bicycle chain) slides against. It is supposed to keep the chain in the right place. When the tensioner (like the spring-loaded gizmo on your bicycle chain) doesn't keep the chain tight enough, it can start flailing around as it moves, and can sometimes break the plastic guides.

It sounds to me like your mechanic found one of the guides (rails) was broken, and just replaced the plastic part. You should ask what caused that, and if that cause was addressed in any way. If not, you may have the same or more serious problems shortly down the road.